Who uses Rhaas speed plate?

I picked up a set of 44 mikunis that did not have a speed plate. So, I picked up a Rhaas speed plate. It seems to be considerably thinner than a stock speed plate. I am just wondering if I will have any issues adjusting the throttle cable?

I guess I will go ahead and try it, but just thought I would see if anybody that has one could give me some input.

Thanks,
JJ
 
Yeah, I bought a rhaas speed plate and discovered the same thing... the standard studs aren’t long enough to just add the speed plate and if you take the factory spacers out, the studs are too long to fit the nuts on without messing around propping the carbs up while putting them on... kinda defeats the “speed” part... Two plates would probably work, but I don’t really wanna pay double plus shipping

I‘ve also sent Robin an email put he hasn’t responded...
 

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Location
Stockton
Yeah, I bought a rhaas speed plate and discovered the same thing... the standard studs aren’t long enough to just add the speed plate and if you take the factory spacers out, the studs are too long to fit the nuts on without messing around propping the carbs up while putting them on... kinda defeats the “speed” part... Two plates would probably work, but I don’t really wanna pay double plus shipping

I‘ve also sent Robin an email put he hasn’t responded...

I have one set up in garage and it’s works.. I’ll have to look at it as I can’t remember what the set up is,.,, but i do have “removable from carb side of speed plate” Allen cap screws holding speed plate down.

Edit: here’s a pic...

Edit: so only Use your new speed plate, discard the factory plate, remove the factory studs and use Allen cap screws to hold plate down. Counter sunk Allen’s hold carbs to speed plate.
 
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You can see in the first photo that the new plate is half the thickness, meaning the carbs are about 9mm closer to the manifold with the speed plate in place (and the factory spacers removed) it’s a bit hard to see in the second photo but as the carbs are 9mm closer to the manifold, the manifold studs are so close to the carbs you can’t fit the nuts on.

Edit: so only Use your new speed plate, discard the factory plate, remove the factory studs and use Allen cap screws to hold plate down. Counter sunk Allen’s hold carbs to speed plate.

I might give this ^^ a try once I get some cap screws and borrow a stud remover but really, if the plate was the factory thickness I’m sure it would bolt straight on and I wouldn’t need to mess around with pulling studs and buying more bolts. It’s not a big deal, just annoying and I was really expecting more of a bolt on solution.

Thanks for the replies/advice!
 
Location
Stockton
You can see in the first photo that the new plate is half the thickness, meaning the carbs are about 9mm closer to the manifold with the speed plate in place (and the factory spacers removed) it’s a bit hard to see in the second photo but as the carbs are 9mm closer to the manifold, the manifold studs are so close to the carbs you can’t fit the nuts on.



I might give this ^^ a try once I get some cap screws and borrow a stud remover but really, if the plate was the factory thickness I’m sure it would bolt straight on and I wouldn’t need to mess around with pulling studs and buying more bolts. It’s not a big deal, just annoying and I was really expecting more of a bolt on solution.

Thanks for the replies/advice!

Welcome!

Also Allen cap screws are much easier to access than a hex bolt... I use a long 3/8 drive ball tipped Allen socket...

Ball tipped extension and short ball tipped Allen’s work good too

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I run a rhaas speed plate on Yamaha 62t cases w dual oem38s (stock Superjet stuff) and I just cut the stock manifold studs shorter. I think this would work the same for setup. Thread the nuts on the studs before you cut them, file ends then remove nuts and they usually thread good as new.
 
I run a rhaas speed plate on Yamaha 62t cases w dual oem38s (stock Superjet stuff) and I just cut the stock manifold studs shorter. I think this would work the same for setup. Thread the nuts on the studs before you cut them, file ends then remove nuts and they usually thread good as new.
I considered that but didn’t want to go in a direction I couldn’t reverse out of (if for some reason I want to change back).
IMHO It’s a bit off that RHAAS make it look like a straight bolt on product and don’t include any instructions or details before purchasing.
 
Studs out, 20mm M8 stainless cap screws in...
 

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i thought the speed plate was 2 pieces that one part bolted to the manifold the other to the carbs and orings seal it up.

Apparently not... although I suspect two plates would make it fit without pulling the studs, it’d be unnecessary as the manifold is essentially the bottom plate already and having another plate + gaskets increases chances of leaks/airflow disturbance etc
 
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