WDK RIP ride plate

Ok. I have decided to make a ride plate... my steering nozzle seems to drag in the water and I believe it is affecting the ride and performance. I want to make a plate long enough to cover the rest of the pump and the beginning of the steering nozzle. I also do not want it full width so I want to round the plate where it is being added. I am thinking I will use my ride plate to build off of. My idea is to sand down my ride plate and add more glass to it. There is some space I want to take up behind the pump show and intake grate. I want the plate to finish flush with intake grate and hull where it meets the pump shoe.

What kind of mat material should I use? I was thinking some sort of biaxial for the bottom layer so it would have a nice even finish and then layers of chop?

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Cool idea wrapping the back of the plate around the pump but I wouldn't do it unless your alright spending hours sanding foam to get the shape you want and get it symmetrical on both sides. Extending just the flat section would be way less work and if you don't like the way it rides you can always add the curved parts. Just lay the plate on a nice flat surface (like mdf) covered with wax paper. Clamp down the plate, lay your glass, then cover with wax paper and mdf then clamp it overnight. Pressing it like this squeezes out all the excess resin and leaves a smooth surface.

4 layers of 1708 should give you just under 3/16" thickness, add more or less to match your plate's thickness. For a smooth finish on the top / bottom, use a layer of 4oz cloth on each. It's very fine and lightweight which will be easier to get smooth than the biaxial. Alternate the direction of the weave in the 1708 since it's stronger one way than the other. I'd extend the bottom most layer of 4oz and biaxial up to the front end of the plate and the top layer or two 3 inches onto the plate. That should keep your new section from breaking off the plate. Then trim the back edges however you like.

I'm by far not the most knowledgeable fiberglass person on here but this is just how I would do it.
 

Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
Wdk may make a longer plate. I wouldnt use biaxial. 8hs s2 around 18+oz just to name one better weave.. Ideally, your need to make a plug, then make a mold, then vaccum bag your part. Plates take a beating, not done right, they wont last long at all.

Or more tray time:p, I think rips ride just fine for a extra short fw hull, but I've been riding am skis for years.
 
Location
V-town
Wdk uses 2408 for the structure and then 3 oz mat for finish inside.
3 layers of 2408 and 2 of 3 oz.
This was the layup schedule jeff had given me for his skis using polyester only. (I bought molds from him)
Epoxy and carbon would be an entirely different animal.
 

SpaceCowboy

breaking something
Ok. I have decided to make a ride plate... my steering nozzle seems to drag in the water and I believe it is affecting the ride and performance. I want to make a plate long enough to cover the rest of the pump and the beginning of the steering nozzle. I also do not want it full width so I want to round the plate where it is being added. I am thinking I will use my ride plate to build off of. My idea is to sand down my ride plate and add more glass to it. There is some space I want to take up behind the pump show and intake grate. I want the plate to finish flush with intake grate and hull where it meets the pump shoe.

What kind of mat material should I use? I was thinking some sort of biaxial for the bottom layer so it would have a nice even finish and then layers of chop?

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Not to be the guy that shoots down your idea but this is how most freestyle skis are. The nozzle always sticks out with the exception of a few skis that run flow guards. I don't see you getting any positive benefit from this project.
 
Not to be the guy that shoots down your idea but this is how most freestyle skis are. The nozzle always sticks out with the exception of a few skis that run flow guards. I don't see you getting any positive benefit from this project.

Right on... I’ll let you know how it goes. I was originally thinking a flow guard concept but going to try a piece of flat aluminum first. If it makes any noticable positive difference, I will pursue a better version from glass.
 
So @Sasquachcrap made a good point and said to try with aluminum first... brilliant idea if you ask me. I picked up a piece of 1/4” x 6” x 12” aluminum. Seems a little thick but will not stick down past the intake grate. Anyway, here is my rough up.

I am going to have to grind some glass and aluminum away where the wear ring and pump have been pressing against the plate. I am also going to grind out where the nozzle screw is just for a little more room.

The plan is to round it off right under the nozzle, notch out for the pump and chamfer the edges of the plate. Then attach it to this ride plate.

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Ok. So... follow up. The extension I added definitely made a difference. It is now much easier to chase down a boat and took a bunch of porpoise out of the ski when cuising around. I did notice it effected how fast I was rotating when attempting back flips. Key word here is attempting. Lol. I felt the rotatiom was higher off the water but a little slower. If I used a little bit of trim it sped the rotatiom back up and I was getting as close as I have been to making a full rotation on a 180 flip. My setup wake is getting better as I get advice from different guys I meet and try different approaches.

I think I am going to try to narrow up the aluminum that sticks out past the original ride plate by cutting along the ride plate from the outsides in for the desired width and then rolling or bending the aluminum. Thus narrowing up the footprint and adding a little more strength to the tab. Im still thinking on it. I do prefer the way it is riding now over how it rode.
 
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