sj electrical box removal

1st time superjet owner as of last weekend. it runs good for 3 days then dies when a buddy is riding the boat is turning over but no spark, i bypassed the switch and now i want to take a look at the ebox. Are there only 2 bolts holding it on? i removed both of those last night and got the left side off but the right side will not budge, looks like corrosion and its seized around the threads, any tricks, i really dont want to have to take the tray apart to remove the brackets.
 

Shonuff

I've got the glow
Site Supporter
Location
Memphis
Put a long screwdriver on the corroded part and tap it with a hammer.

The two bolts hold it to the firewall. Should slide right off.
 
i have pried and tapped with a screw driver, done the pb blaster as well. i gave it s good twist and yanked on it pretty good, all that did was pull the trailer forward, i might try a small crow bar next, but i have been patient so far and havent got too into it trying not to break or rip apart anything.

how is the bracket with the main ebox attachments studs attached to the firewall? through bolted? i can see the nuts but was wondering if i have to get around and through the front part of the tray to access them
 

njfl

X-H2
i have pried and tapped with a screw driver, done the pb blaster as well. i gave it s good twist and yanked on it pretty good, all that did was pull the trailer forward, i might try a small crow bar next, but i have been patient so far and havent got too into it trying not to break or rip apart anything.

how is the bracket with the main ebox attachments studs attached to the firewall? through bolted? i can see the nuts but was wondering if i have to get around and through the front part of the tray to access them

If you can remove the front panel in your tray, there wil be four bolts olding the two mounts on that you can access.

I don't think penetrating oil will help much because it is not rust (iron oxide corrosion), but rather aluminum to stinless bonding.

Heat (propane or MAPP torch) would help, but I don't recommend this unless you have a very steady hand and sharp, focused flame.

Someone on here used a pressure washer to mechanically break the aluminum-stainless corrosion bond, but I think the idea of 3000+psi of water near all of those parts may be worse than 3000+ degrees from a torch near all of those parts in the boat.
 
Top Bottom