Ok, I ran a more accurate gauge inline with my pump. Blocked off everything as discussed before, I removed the aftermarket cap on the flywheel (vs. removing the entire flywheel).
Pumped up to 10psi on the pulse port, no pressure loss at all over 15min. So does this mean I have no leaks?
Yes it will work, but will take forever. Go get a large mountainbike tire and cut out the valve steam and attached to 1/4 fule line and the pulse line. Now you have a way to attach a larger pump. You now filet the tire cut to lenght and use as a rubber gasket. Just cut bolts hole anout mount the ruber between exhause mani and cylinder and between intake mani and carbs. Rock Solid.
Bought two 1 1/2 test plugs for the intake mani and a 2 inch for the exhaust mani from lowes. I took the dremel to the bottom base on the plug for the exhaust mani, about 1mm all around without touching the rubber expanding part. And a $10 foot pedal pump at walmart and a tire tube. Cut the valve out of the tire tube and wedged it into the pulse line and pumped to 10psi.
tooth pick in each reed set to slightly open them up. You dont want to take those reed screws out to many times considering they tap into plastic. Loctite does not work properly unless there is pressure between internal and external threads...
Thread revival because I used the search function!
At the start of the thread I see it suggested to pump air into one pulse fitting and measure case pressure via the second - maybe I’m crazy here but I was under the impression each side of the case should be sealed off from the other???
Thanks for the clarification - I actually used some vapor barrier plastic sheeting sandwiched between the exhaust ports and the exhaust manifold (to prevent communication) and the same sandwiched between the carbs and the intake manifold. This worked well and was very simple but I was surprised to hear and feel air escaping from the other pulse fitting, sounds like it’s normal.