Krash Reaper Build!

Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,936
Location
Chico California
#1
After riding all of the new hulls with seats over the last few years, MX1, Viper, rockered/chopped blaster, and the Reaper I fell in love with the Reaper. And picked up a new hull at a good price with some paint issues. I haven't been able to find any builds or very much info on building out a new hull so going to document the process here.
Reaper uses all Superjet 2008+ parts

Drive Train:
62t/61x 754cc CPT ported 170psi
TNT b1 exhaust opened to 49mm w/ RN waterbox
38's Ocean pro Carbon flame arrestors Boyesen 2stage reeds
Zeeltronics / WaxCurve
144 Solas Mag / x-metal trim / 10-16 hooker / 08+ driveshaft

Controls:
Yamaha WaveRaider Spring steering
2007 Superjet steering cable
Thrust single finger throttle

Other stuff:
Limited slip 4.8G tank
Silicone long exhaust hose
Rhaas engine mounts
Kenny keeper
R&D intake grate
Dakine foot straps

Parts I still need:
Trim lever
Bars
hood/seat latches




Slowly putting parts on as they show up. And still not sure how I am going to make my steering work. So any tips or suggestions please let me know!

So pretty and light!
IMG_20190625_165816520.jpg
Clean up some threads
IMG_20190709_145203720.jpg
foot straps installed
IMG_20190709_150417671.jpg
Putting what I have in finger tight
IMG_20190709_150426428.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,936
Location
Chico California
#5
Before receiving the Reaper I had assumed it used the same type of steering setup as the blaster. However it does not. The inside of the blaster hood comes down and allows the bottom of the steering to bolt to the hood. The Reaper hood is open space.

I'm not exactly sure what I am going to do yet, but looks like I will need to make a plate to put under the hood so the bolts have something to bolt too other then just the hood. And then I need to come up with a steering stop.

Brand new yamaha Raider steering still in the package!
yamsteering.PNG

Will having a plate on the underside of the hood for this to bolt too be strong enough?
steeringstem.PNG

The steering stop that would bolt to the hood.
steerstop.PNG


What it looks like bolted to a blaster. The part circled on blaster is just open space on the Reaper. Hoping another Reaper owner has some tips here other then buy another steering. :)
blastersteer stop.PNG
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,936
Location
Chico California
#7
A little bracketology. Aluminum or stainless, or fab it up in cardboard and hot glue and do it in CF or S glass. 4 hours tops. Rock it out.
I have some ideas if it comes to that. But it wont be pretty. I have seen some Reapers with UMI steering so people have made it work. Just haven't been able to get any replies or pictures from those people..
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,936
Location
Chico California
#10
Worx pump shoe install. Dropped right in! lol j/k..

After sanding off all the paint in the shoe area, and sanding the shoe smooth it was pretty close. Then spent about an hour with the air grinder and test fitting. Needs a bit more sanding for it to sit flush. You can see the gap when i did the dry fit.

R&D intake grate needed a ton of grinding to sit flush as well.

IMG_20190717_184057723.jpg IMG_20190717_184104438.jpg IMG_20190720_144752256.jpg
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,936
Location
Chico California
#11
The hull where the water lines are is raised up higher then the rest of the area. Sanded that down and got the shoe to fit flush. Screwed her in and used 4200. Figure if/when I upgrade to a 155 it will be easier to remove then 5200. Bolted and shimmed the pump to hold the shoe while the glue dries and need to grind some more off the R&D.
IMG_20190720_222751302.jpg
 

Sanoman

A.E. Newman
Joined
Jun 23, 2009
Likes
1,961
Location
NE Tenn
#12
Some of the a/m parts we all pay good money for and then have to grind them up to actually make them fit is a real pisser.Totally wish people would bitch more about that to manufacturers of these products,pump shoes,scoop grates,etc.

Looks great so far Quinc!
 

newbee

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Likes
122
#13
When you guys fit a pump shoe. Do you try and make if flush with the hull? Then let the grate sit a little higher? Nice build
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,936
Location
Chico California
#14
When you guys fit a pump shoe. Do you try and make if flush with the hull? Then let the grate sit a little higher? Nice build
This is only second one I have done so I am not an expert. I grind and sand to get the shoe close; then fit with the pump until pump and pump seal are correct. Once I like where the pump is I grind down the top of the shoe to sit flush with the hull. I grind the intake grate as well to get it to sit flush. And did some moderate blueprinting to the grate to help smooth the flow.
 

newbee

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Likes
122
#15
Haha I'm far from a pro also. But did the same. Try and make the shoe sit flush. But I have seen a lot of aftermarket hull that don't sit flush so I thought i might messing something up.
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,936
Location
Chico California
#19
Sure sounds like they need to get a lot better with their molds. It can't be that difficult to get a shoe and adjust the mold from the beginning. All the OEM's seem to be able to do it.
Exactly! However, I don't know how much of it is the shoe Vs the ski without trying an oem shoe first.
 
Top Bottom