Is the check valve on the fuel tank one way or does it allow pressure to be released at a certain pressure? I looked at the service manual and it seems to indicate that it is 1 way only. Need some confirmation here mine is bad and needs to be replaced. I have a spare from my truck that I want to try but dont want to do it if the tank needs to bleed of pressure if it gets too high.
fuel tank check valve
- Thread starter Keith
- Start date
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
it should ONLY allow air INTO the tank..
to replace the volume of tank that the engine/fuel pump are removing, otherwise the tank will 'suck' in and look pinched.
try it, put the vent on backwards, and crank it and run it a little bit...
blow thru it to test it, one way ONLY... and into the tank is correct.
to replace the volume of tank that the engine/fuel pump are removing, otherwise the tank will 'suck' in and look pinched.
try it, put the vent on backwards, and crank it and run it a little bit...
blow thru it to test it, one way ONLY... and into the tank is correct.
dirkdiggler
Vendor Account
- Location
- WI
autozone sells the "one way" check valve for like $4
Thanks for the replys. I put my other one on after checking the original one. The original one would allow air to pass in the wrong direction if you blow real lightly threw it. But if you blow real hard it would not allow air to pass. Just going to assume it is bad and will go try it in a little bit once the rain moves out of the area.
oxnard111
Creative RE Purchasing
- Location
- so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
i have like 10 of them. PM me if anybody needs one.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
This topic sucks or blows I haven't decided which just yet.
Just got back from the lake. The valve was the problem. I will order the correct valve from the dealer its only $12
Also when I got my full spectrum carbs I seem to remember Ed telling me that the seadoo check valve was better than the yamaha valve. Can anyone comfirm this?
It seems to run really well with the spare check valve that I got from my dodge dealer. Should I just leave it in there? After riding for a while the tank didnt seem to have an excessive amout of pressure built up.
Wedoseadoo, I will say that this topic falls under the sucking catigory.:Banane35:
Also when I got my full spectrum carbs I seem to remember Ed telling me that the seadoo check valve was better than the yamaha valve. Can anyone comfirm this?
It seems to run really well with the spare check valve that I got from my dodge dealer. Should I just leave it in there? After riding for a while the tank didnt seem to have an excessive amout of pressure built up.
Wedoseadoo, I will say that this topic falls under the sucking catigory.:Banane35:
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
I can confirm never replacing a Seadoo check valve hows that work for confirmation?
SUPERJET-113
GASKETS FOR CHAMP BRAP!
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
I quit using those stupid check valves 4 years ago when one failed and I my fuel tank sucked in to 1/3 its size and i ran extra lean and burned off the edges of my Wiseco pistons when the carbs could no longer suck.
I just loop a bunch of hose and strap it to the strap on the fuel tank. Unless you do a major swampage/hydro-lock, then you will get a little water in your fuel, but other than that its good to go.
You could also run a "T" or "Y" fitting and run 2 of them if you want. Or maybe get a Seadoo one, dunno.. I just know I dont use them anymore after that.
.02
I just loop a bunch of hose and strap it to the strap on the fuel tank. Unless you do a major swampage/hydro-lock, then you will get a little water in your fuel, but other than that its good to go.
You could also run a "T" or "Y" fitting and run 2 of them if you want. Or maybe get a Seadoo one, dunno.. I just know I dont use them anymore after that.
.02
Last edited:
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
Can someone provide a part number or link for the in-stock check valve at autozone?
NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
Although illegal, drilling it out will solve all your problems, other than being illegal.
- Location
- Stouffville, Ontario
JM has em for $6.50 too. Just picked one up off him for this season.
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
So does the check valve actually serve a purpose other than preventing fuel from flowing out of your tank???
NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
That's basically it.
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
Ive read both.
Doesnt seem logical that pressurizing your tank a couple PSI will do anything for you considering the pressure the fuel pumps can generate.
Hopefully someone else can chime in...
Doesnt seem logical that pressurizing your tank a couple PSI will do anything for you considering the pressure the fuel pumps can generate.
Hopefully someone else can chime in...
- Location
- Stouffville, Ontario
... It lets air in to avoid creating a vacuum. You know your checkvalve is gone when your tank "inhales" when you take off the gas cap.
NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
I had a talk with a designer builder a couple years ago and he told me that they are required to be legal for racing. At the time they were racing B1's. They left them inline, but drilled them out, so they free flowed and breathed properly. The reason for this is because they didn't have enough control over their constant fuel pressure with them in tact. So basically when pinned and on it a lot, their fuel pressure would drop even with a new one in line. What if one failed? Or isn't letting air in properly. The engine doesn't get enough fuel for the amount of air going into the engine and it leans out. So it only makes sense that it be free flowing all the time.
Another note though, is something I haven't seen anybody bring up in a long time. It is VERY important to open your hood up and vent the fumes before starting. Especially if it's sat a while at the lake, or whatever. In some pics n vids you will notice skis with their hoods cracked, or partially open to vent fumes. If there's fuel fumes in there, there is the possibility of an explosion in the ski when you hit the start button. I've heard of it happening and luckily haven't seen it.
Another note though, is something I haven't seen anybody bring up in a long time. It is VERY important to open your hood up and vent the fumes before starting. Especially if it's sat a while at the lake, or whatever. In some pics n vids you will notice skis with their hoods cracked, or partially open to vent fumes. If there's fuel fumes in there, there is the possibility of an explosion in the ski when you hit the start button. I've heard of it happening and luckily haven't seen it.