DYI Total loss or MSD TL upgrade box 270USD?

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Is that curve with or without the third lump?
When we first mapped the 64X CDI, we recorded a flat curve of 12deg. I was about to post my results with some questions when I remembered the third lump. I dug up another flywheel that still had the lump and was able to record the posted curve.

The OEM CDI has to see that third lump to function correctly.
 
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OCD Solutions

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Can you add the msd enhancer to that chart to compare all 3?
The short answer is no, that particular software only allows for the plotting of two curves total. There are other ways but time is precious and I'm currently out of it so it will have to wait.

I have been searching for the spreadsheet that I used to generate the chart above but haven't found it yet. I'll have to recreate it when I have time and enter the 64X data. Maybe I can then use Excel to plot out multiple curves but if I remember correctly, it was a PITA and never looks as good as the ignition software displays it.

Anyways, it's been fun but I am back on the road tomorrow so all this will have to go on the back burner again.
 
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After seeing the stock 760 curve I adjusted the tail end of the wax curve up from 15 to 22. I will post back if my engine blows up.
170psi 62t/61x 760cc

Red is the Wax and Blue is the changes I made. You can fill the outside of a barn with what I don't know so feel free to criticize.
wax.PNG
 
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I have a similar situation with the outside of the barn, but I think that low advance at high rpms is both beneficial for power and avoiding detonation at high rpm, the low advance gets heat into the pipe, oem ignition uses a lot of advance because the pipe is not as effective at high rpm, and compression is relatively low.


I think....but I don't know.
 

Roseand

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I have a similar situation with the outside of the barn, but I think that low advance at high rpms is both beneficial for power and avoiding detonation at high rpm, the low advance gets heat into the pipe, oem ignition uses a lot of advance because the pipe is not as effective at high rpm, and compression is relatively low.


I think....but I don't know.
I've heard similar. When I was running an hpe 5mil and the tnt v3, holeshot recommended I try lowering the top end of the curve to help with combos, not raising it
 

waxhead

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Let me explain it. By retarding the ignition your put more heat into the pipe and this makes it run hotter. think about factory pipe playing with water injection. The hotter the pipe the faster the wave and this means it works for a high rpm. Its like vetec for two strokes
 
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After seeing the stock 760 curve I adjusted the tail end of the wax curve up from 15 to 22. I will post back if my engine blows up.
170psi 62t/61x 760cc

Red is the Wax and Blue is the changes I made. You can fill the outside of a barn with what I don't know so feel free to criticize.
The wax curve you have plotted doesn’t look right. It should only drop to 18 degrees at 6000 rpm I thought, not 15.
 
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I have a basic question here that I think I answered and would like someone to confirm please.

As I understand, a battery only sparks when you connect the cables if something is pulling current. Unless you have a issue/voltage leak, my ski batteries never spark when I connect the ground cable last.

I installed my Zeel setup and I now get a spark when connecting the battery. I concluded this is because the Zeel I installed PDCIS-02T does not run or require an on/off arming switch. This unit always pulls a small amount of power. A very low amount as shared it would take 5-10 years to kill battery our small batteries.

So am I right or am I right?
 
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I have a basic question here that I think I answered and would like someone to confirm please.

As I understand, a battery only sparks when you connect the cables if something is pulling current. Unless you have a issue/voltage leak, my ski batteries never spark when I connect the ground cable last.

I installed my Zeel setup and I now get a spark when connecting the battery. I concluded this is because the Zeel I installed PDCIS-02T does not run or require an on/off arming switch. This unit always pulls a small amount of power. A very low amount as shared it would take 5-10 years to kill battery our small batteries.

So am I right or am I right?
Well msd TL always draws a current and it’s enough to completely kill my 4 amp hour battery in about a week when I’ve forgotten to disconnect it...
 
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Well msd TL always draws a current and it’s enough to completely kill my 4 amp hour battery in about a week when I’ve forgotten to disconnect it...
When I ran MSD TL I ran an arming switch to power it on and off, so I'm not sure what you have going.

So to answer my question, the reason I now spark is because the Zeel is always drawing power, correct?
 
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Nick, mine also sparks a bit. I believe it has a small constant draw. It is not enough to kill my battery in a week though. I always disconnect after riding just to be safe.
 
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When I ran MSD TL I ran an arming switch to power it on and off, so I'm not sure what you have going.

So to answer my question, the reason I now spark is because the Zeel is always drawing power, correct?
I wire it direct with just the fuse. Less stuff to fail and I take a battery terminal off every time I’m not using it. Simple and safe.
 
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