CDI Issue no spark

Joined
Feb 19, 2015
Likes
6
Location
Ontario, Canada
#1
Hey folks.

I've been diagnosing my electrical system for two days now. Everything seems to be pointing towards the cdi. I should also point out that the plug was missing off the ebox and all the connectors and grounds were corroded. All of that has since been cleaned up and greased with dielectric silicone based lube - but makes me wonder if any moisture may have creeped into the cdi over time and buggered it up.

What are my options for cdi's? I contacted jetskisolution but they are not servicing Canada right now because of covid. From what I can tell my options are an msd for a million dollars from blowsion/ riva on a bone stock ski, or a white box "oem" cdi from amazon for pretty cheap.

Is there such thing as a quality oem replacement?

Right now i'm thinking of getting the cheap one as a diagnostic tool. But would hesitate to take it on the water.

Cheers
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Joined
Apr 29, 2016
Likes
289
Location
Glenmoore pa
#3
Hey folks.

I've been diagnosing my electrical system for two days now. Everything seems to be pointing towards the cdi. I should also point out that the plug was missing off the ebox and all the connectors and grounds were corroded. All of that has since been cleaned up and greased with dielectric silicone based lube - but makes me wonder if any moisture may have creeped into the cdi over time and buggered it up.

What are my options for cdi's? I contacted jetskisolution but they are not servicing Canada right now because of covid. From what I can tell my options are an msd for a million dollars from blowsion/ riva on a bone stock ski, or a white box "oem" cdi from amazon for pretty cheap.

Is there such thing as a quality oem replacement?

Right now i'm thinking of getting the cheap one as a diagnostic tool. But would hesitate to take it on the water.

Cheers
Just get a cheap stock one on eBay to diagnose. If there was that much corrosion u might just want to grab a complete ebox on eBay. They aren’t they expensive. Next cheapest upgrade is MSD enhancer (assuming this is a 701). If it’s a 760, zeel is direct swap. If not, you need a bunch of the 760 components to make it work. Zeel is next cheapest followed by MSD total loss but MSD is not really and upgrade from a nice zeel package.
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2015
Likes
6
Location
Ontario, Canada
#5
Hey folks. Got this thing running mint with a new cdi (Chinese OEM).
To close the thread I wanted to share my findings.

- Step one, went on a corrosion scavenger hunt. Cleaning and coating everything electrical with dielectric silicon grease. Even at the starter. It’s the main ground for the ski so clean it and grease it! A resistance test here isn’t good enough. If the lug is 99% corroded it will still show 0 ohms but when you crank you may not have enough contact for the required amp draw of the starter and you May experience slow cranking even with a good battery.
- Disassembled, cleaned and greased start stop switch. It tested fine but I left the bl/wt wire disconnected for the sake of paranoia
- Cracked open the e box and tested the following: Everything I tested fell in range.


charge coil: brown/white-black 328.5-401.5 ohms

pulser coil: white/red-black 12.6-15.4 ohms

lighting coil: green-green 0.81-0.99 ohms

Primary coil: orange-black 0.078-0.106 ohms

Secondary coil: (plug wires) 3.5-4.7 ohms

- New battery
- At this point I Rolled the dice on a cheap cdi. I figured it would be less risky than blowing my meter trying to test the stator while cranking. It was a lucky roll.

Hopefully this is helpful to someone else. Electrical gremlins are silent predators.
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 20, 2020
Likes
0
Location
AZ
#6
Hey folks. Got this thing running mint with a new cdi (Chinese OEM).
To close the thread I wanted to share my findings.

- Step one, went on a corrosion scavenger hunt. Cleaning and coating everything electrical with dielectric silicon grease. Even at the starter. It’s the main ground for the ski so clean it and grease it! A resistance test here isn’t good enough. If the lug is 99% corroded it will still show 0 ohms but when you crank you may not have enough contact for the required amp draw of the starter and you May experience slow cranking even with a good battery.
- Disassembled, cleaned and greased start stop switch. It tested fine but I left the bl/wt wire disconnected for the sake of paranoia
- Cracked open the e box and tested the following: Everything I tested fell in range.


charge coil: brown/white-black 328.5-401.5 ohms

pulser coil: white/red-black 12.6-15.4 ohms

lighting coil: green-green 0.81-0.99 ohms

Primary coil: orange-black 0.078-0.106 ohms

Secondary coil: (plug wires) 3.5-4.7 ohms

- New battery
- At this point I Rolled the dice on a cheap cdi. I figured it would be less risky than blowing my meter trying to test the stator while cranking. It was a lucky roll.

Hopefully this is helpful to someone else. Electrical gremlins are silent predators.
Where did you end up buying you CDI? I am in the same boat.
 
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