Super Jet Basic SN build !Completed! *Tuning time*

Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,498
Location
Chico California
#1
Any critiques, criticisms, advice, ideas, examples, suggestions, etc are all Welcome! You could fill the outside of a barn with what I don't know about jet skis and fiberglass work.


After pancaking to many times and putting a crack in the hull I figured I would fix the crack. Since I am fixing the crack I might as well reinforce the hull. Since I am pulling everything out to reinforce I might as well de foam and put in foot holds.

I mostly free ride and freestyle so I am hoping to make the hull better at freestyle without losing to much free ride.


1. Reinforce hull:
Plan is to repair the cracks and than reinforce following this: http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?48456-Reinforcing-a-Square-Nose
I am going to reinforce the handle pole bracket and front of the nose with 12oz (easier to mold)

And I will probably put some 1708 along the flat spot on the bottom of the hull. Has anyone tried putting thin aluminum along that portion of the bottom of the hull? Seems like it would be a lot stronger and just as light.

2. Cut 2" off the back. Not sure if I should take 2.5 or 3"

3.
Re foam the tray with the pink home depot stuff

4.
Install Toby footholds

5. Paint. Sand off this crapy pirate ship paint job and re paint it. Maybe do vinyl. Some dumbass took the time to do a great airbrushing job that probably cost a ton and didn't think to prep the hull first. So its peeling off with the original paint underneath...

6. Turf. Going to turf around the bond line and nose too. Not sure what color to paint and turf yet.

I also want to do something with the nose but I am not sure what yet.

7. I have Blowsion reinforced hood and nose piece, as well as -2 aluminum pole.


Engine: 61x/61x Coffman Sizzler pipe. Going to have the cylinders free style ported and add a girdled head. Leaning toward Art @ Jetworks right now but still need to get a hold of Jetmaniac. Also need to get a prop. Have a Solas 14-17 right now and need to see what my re pitch options are. Unless anyone wants to trade?


Spent about 6 hours Saturday defoaming, cutting and sanding the inside and bottom of the hull.

day I picked her up:



After scraping off the turf and pulling everything out:



Nice big cracks on top of the tray:



About 1/4" through the top was water logged, anywhere they put silicone to try and seal was soaked through and along the bond line. So I will be using automotive goop to keep it from leaking this time.



Dug out 90% of the foam before pressure washing and it weighed about 35lbs.



Pressure washed and sand blasted all of the hard to reach spots and along the bond line. Still need to hit the main parts by hand.


Tray so clean you can eat off it:
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,498
Location
Chico California
#3
Also does anyone have any tips on running dual cooling, and pictures of where they tapped the pump for a second cooling line? I am thinking about using pvc for the cooling line unless anyone has any recommendations?
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,498
Location
Chico California
#5
Question. Should I cut 2" off the back and glass it back straight or do it at an angle like below. Can anyone tell me what the difference in handling would be between the two ways?
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2011
Likes
79
Location
Mesa, Arizona
#7
Regarding the prop go with the hooker. Either the 9/15 or the 10/16. I just did this to my ski and I can't say enough about the change. Also I bored my exit nozzle to 85.5 and that helped also.

I am going to be tearing into my tray as well here and putting in new foothold and re foaming. I am sure mine is soaked as my ski is super heavy. Question....would you post a pic of the exhaust tube? I am trying to figure out what I going to do with that as it interferes with the foot holds. Is it straight or does it have a curve?


Any critiques, criticisms, advice, ideas, examples, suggestions, etc are all Welcome! You could fill the outside of a barn with what I don't know about jet skis and fiberglass work.


After pancaking to many times and putting a crack in the hull I figured I would fix the crack. Since I am fixing the crack I might as well reinforce the hull. Since I am pulling everything out to reinforce I might as well de foam and put in foot holds.

I mostly free ride and freestyle so I am hoping to make the hull better at freestyle without losing to much free ride.


1. Reinforce hull:
Plan is to repair the cracks and than reinforce following this: http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?48456-Reinforcing-a-Square-Nose
I am going to reinforce the handle pole bracket and front of the nose with 12oz (easier to mold)

And I will probably put some 1708 along the flat spot on the bottom of the hull. Has anyone tried putting thin aluminum along that portion of the bottom of the hull? Seems like it would be a lot stronger and just as light.

2. Cut 2" off the back. Not sure if I should take 2.5 or 3"

3.
Re foam the tray with the pink home depot stuff

4.
Install Toby footholds

5. Paint. Sand off this crapy pirate ship paint job and re paint it. Maybe do vinyl. Some dumbass took the time to do a great airbrushing job that probably cost a ton and didn't think to prep the hull first. So its peeling off with the original paint underneath...

6. Turf. Going to turf around the bond line and nose too. Not sure what color to paint and turf yet.

I also want to do something with the nose but I am not sure what yet.

7. I have Blowsion reinforced hood and nose piece, as well as -2 aluminum pole.


Engine: 61x/61x Coffman Sizzler pipe. Going to have the cylinders free style ported and add a girdled head. Leaning toward Art @ Jetworks right now but still need to get a hold of Jetmaniac. Also need to get a prop. Have a Solas 14-17 right now and need to see what my re pitch options are. Unless anyone wants to trade?


Spent about 6 hours Saturday defoaming, cutting and sanding the inside and bottom of the hull.

day I picked her up:



After scraping off the turf and pulling everything out:



Nice big cracks on top of the tray:



About 1/4" through the top was water logged, anywhere they put silicone to try and seal was soaked through and along the bond line. So I will be using automotive goop to keep it from leaking this time.



Dug out 90% of the foam before pressure washing and it weighed about 35lbs.



Pressure washed and sand blasted all of the hard to reach spots and along the bond line. Still need to hit the main parts by hand.


Tray so clean you can eat off it:
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,498
Location
Chico California
#8
Regarding the prop go with the hooker. Either the 9/15 or the 10/16. I just did this to my ski and I can't say enough about the change. Also I bored my exit nozzle to 85.5 and that helped also.

I am going to be tearing into my tray as well here aond putting in new foothold and re foaming. I am sure mine is soaked as my ski is super heavy. Question....would you post a pic of the exhaust tube? I am trying to figure out what I going to do with that as it interferes with the foot holds. Is it straight or does it have a curve?
The tube was straight. Only thing holding it in was the 3rivets and silicon so it is really easy to remove. When you start digging foam out, cutting the foam with something sharp or jigsaw first, then digging it out makes it easier. You can also use a drill with a wire wheel to speed things up.

What footholds are you using?
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 15, 2011
Likes
79
Location
Mesa, Arizona
#9
I figured the tube was straight..so re using it is an option..which is what I was worried about. I have a set of Waterdawgs that are going in. They are really big so the tube would interfere as it already did with my current home made holds (which suck btw). Thanks for the advice on the foam. I am guessing mine is really wet because when I pull the ride plate I get a full on water leak for about a minute out of the hole located to the rear of the tray.

I plan to open the tray up a bit as well. I don't want my ski down for very long so I am just doing the tray this year than I'll mess with the nose if i decide I like it. My skills and b*lls really won't allow me to try a backflip. Plus I have a kid on the way so a broken limb would be a bad idea. I want to lighted/shorten the hull for nose stabs and maybe a roll but I have yet to master the stab. I am hoping to have mine done in a week possibly two so defoam, chop, move exhaust tube down, holds , refoam, glass and turf and back on the water.

I tell ya what though. Once I got my 760 dialed in with the pipe and prop...The square can be really fun.. I can throw it around pretty well even with the water logged weight. Can't wait to see what happens when she is lighter and shorter. Do you have a quick steer? I can post up a quick pick or two of the bracket I made for free that gave me the same results. Build time = 30 minutes. Was pretty awesome actually.

BTW.. make sure to fill the 6 or 8 holes in the front of the hood. They are about the size of a nickel and dump water into the bilge once you go under. That is also something I will do while glassing. Its a quick fix. When I feel like repainting my entire hull, I will go after the hood. It wieghs A A LOT. I know guys shed 10-12 lbs when they cut and rebuild the hood...I just don't have the time. Gotta get as much tray time in before the baby come :).
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,498
Location
Chico California
#10
I figured the tube was straight..so re using it is an option..which is what I was worried about. I have a set of Waterdawgs that are going in. They are really big so the tube would interfere as it already did with my current home made holds (which suck btw). Thanks for the advice on the foam. I am guessing mine is really wet because when I pull the ride plate I get a full on water leak for about a minute out of the hole located to the rear of the tray.

I plan to open the tray up a bit as well. I don't want my ski down for very long so I am just doing the tray this year than I'll mess with the nose if i decide I like it. My skills and b*lls really won't allow me to try a backflip. Plus I have a kid on the way so a broken limb would be a bad idea. I want to lighted/shorten the hull for nose stabs and maybe a roll but I have yet to master the stab. I am hoping to have mine done in a week possibly two so defoam, chop, move exhaust tube down, holds , refoam, glass and turf and back on the water.

I tell ya what though. Once I got my 760 dialed in with the pipe and prop...The square can be really fun.. I can throw it around pretty well even with the water logged weight. Can't wait to see what happens when she is lighter and shorter. Do you have a quick steer? I can post up a quick pick or two of the bracket I made for free that gave me the same results. Build time = 30 minutes. Was pretty awesome actually.

BTW.. make sure to fill the 6 or 8 holes in the front of the hood. They are about the size of a nickel and dump water into the bilge once you go under. That is also something I will do while glassing. Its a quick fix. When I feel like repainting my entire hull, I will go after the hood. It wieghs A A LOT. I know guys shed 10-12 lbs when they cut and rebuild the hood...I just don't have the time. Gotta get as much tray time in before the baby come :).
I figured the tube was straight..so re using it is an option..which is what I was worried about. I have a set of Waterdawgs that are going in. They are really big so the tube would interfere as it already did with my current home made holds (which suck btw). Thanks for the advice on the foam. I am guessing mine is really wet because when I pull the ride plate I get a full on water leak for about a minute out of the hole located to the rear of the tray.

I plan to open the tray up a bit as well. I don't want my ski down for very long so I am just doing the tray this year than I'll mess with the nose if i decide I like it. My skills and b*lls really won't allow me to try a backflip. Plus I have a kid on the way so a broken limb would be a bad idea. I want to lighted/shorten the hull for nose stabs and maybe a roll but I have yet to master the stab. I am hoping to have mine done in a week possibly two so defoam, chop, move exhaust tube down, holds , refoam, glass and turf and back on the water.

I tell ya what though. Once I got my 760 dialed in with the pipe and prop...The square can be really fun.. I can throw it around pretty well even with the water logged weight. Can't wait to see what happens when she is lighter and shorter. Do you have a quick steer? I can post up a quick pick or two of the bracket I made for free that gave me the same results. Build time = 30 minutes. Was pretty awesome actually.

BTW.. make sure to fill the 6 or 8 holes in the front of the hood. They are about the size of a nickel and dump water into the bilge once you go under. That is also something I will do while glassing. Its a quick fix. When I feel like repainting my entire hull, I will go after the hood. It wieghs A A LOT. I know guys shed 10-12 lbs when they cut and rebuild the hood...I just don't have the time. Gotta get as much tray time in before the baby come :).


Baby is due Dec 1st! So I am trying to get everything done before he comes too. I have a umi quick steer plate to install and I moved the steering bolt closer on the nozzle. For the hood I have a Blowsion hood.

I contacted impros and they are going to re pitch my prop for low end. Not sure what options there are with Solas props but hopefully they can make it 9/15 or 10/16
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2011
Likes
79
Location
Mesa, Arizona
#11
Sweet man...congrats! Yeah I want my done and ready to ride for the last half our of season (fall out here to ride is amazing). Your solas should do well. I had no idea moving the ball in would make it turn better...gonna have to do that. Man what a difference the quicksteer and right pitch prop makes. My ski showed a huge change with those two mods. It went from unable to nose stab to stab capable with those changes.

My motor set up is odd. 61x with true 760 cylinders mounted on top bored out 1 over. So I am technically running a 787 with a 46 mm carb and a b pipe. I had my head miled and the domes adjusted. My squish band is the minimum you can run on pump gas and my psi is at 190/190...again dangerous on pump but I rarely hit WOT for any longer than a few seconds. Ski is really very nimble for its weight. I can't wait to see what happens when it is lighter.
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,498
Location
Chico California
#13
I got my Toby footholds in the mail! Other than that, my composites order should be in Thursday. So while I am waiting I have been tinkering on the JS550 and installed an sbn44.
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2011
Likes
79
Location
Mesa, Arizona
#15
yeah the sanding is the hardest part. I tore my hull way down a few years ago and did some glass work and painted...took me months. I also built my own footholds...which took a bit of time. Since you are opening up the tray moving the exhaust tube down is key as it interferes with holds on the Square. Are you planning on using a combo of HD foam and pour foam? I have been thinking of this when I go to open mine up. Seems like you'd need the pour foam to fill the gaps and voids and to make a good structural base for the glass. Chime in here boys...maybe I am wrong.
 

iangdesign

Cats, lots of cats!
Joined
Feb 15, 2012
Likes
991
Location
United States
#17
You could also just use the HD foam and add drain plugs into each side...so you know most if not all the water can be drained after each ride. Rather then using the expanding foam and praying you sealed it all up tight.
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Likes
4,498
Location
Chico California
#19
I think I have everything I need to start laying some glass!

25 paint brushes
Gloves
Acetone
Scissors
Shoe Goop
Epoxy
Masking Tape
Polystyrene HD foam.
Mixing cups
Wax Paper
Masking tape
Mask
Coveralls
Face sheild
Fiberglass Roller
 
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