2019 Rickter Edge FS Build
- Thread starter headshock
- Start date
The bedplate issue was resolved after many hours and days of brainstorming and a little bit of fabrication. BK - Thank you for your first tip of moving the motor mounts out. It didn't solve the problem but was able to step back and look at the problem from a different perspective. After moving the motor mounts out we saw a 1 mm improvement in the alignment and then finally realized that the Motor mount on the Air Intake side of the ski was installed backwards from the Factory. The big issue them was removing the 6 hex bolts that drenched heavily with Red Loctite.
We protected the area, then with a fire extinguisher next to us, we carefully used a torch to heat the bolts one at a time. A freshly cut snapon hex bit was used to try and remove very bolt with an impact wrench. We thought about this process for 3 days before actually going for it knowing a stripped bolt could be devastating to this build. I should also mention we had some communications with Rickter and they suggested we move forward with heat using a small torch to heat the areas.
After all of this we spent 3 hours trying to remove the 6 bolts. 3 were successful and 3 became stripped!!!!! I almost died when the first one stripped but we had an idea. The idea that became the lifesaver was to weld a nut onto each bolt and remove them with a wrench. We welded a nut on each one of the bolts and using a wrench were able to remove the bolts. Even after all the heat of welding these nuts didn't want to break loose because they had so much red locktite on them .
Lesson learned: Install bedplates properly in the factory !!!!!!
Enough said - Lets move on with the build.
We protected the area, then with a fire extinguisher next to us, we carefully used a torch to heat the bolts one at a time. A freshly cut snapon hex bit was used to try and remove very bolt with an impact wrench. We thought about this process for 3 days before actually going for it knowing a stripped bolt could be devastating to this build. I should also mention we had some communications with Rickter and they suggested we move forward with heat using a small torch to heat the areas.
After all of this we spent 3 hours trying to remove the 6 bolts. 3 were successful and 3 became stripped!!!!! I almost died when the first one stripped but we had an idea. The idea that became the lifesaver was to weld a nut onto each bolt and remove them with a wrench. We welded a nut on each one of the bolts and using a wrench were able to remove the bolts. Even after all the heat of welding these nuts didn't want to break loose because they had so much red locktite on them .
Lesson learned: Install bedplates properly in the factory !!!!!!
Enough said - Lets move on with the build.
Pump Shoe Install:
The Blowsion 148 pump shoe fit close but in order to get it right required a fair amount of dremel and grinding work. We decided to fiber glass the pump shoe in. Its all aligned with the midshaft, let it sit over night. I had lots of help on this part of the build, biggest decision that is still undecided is what to name this beast.
The Blowsion 148 pump shoe fit close but in order to get it right required a fair amount of dremel and grinding work. We decided to fiber glass the pump shoe in. Its all aligned with the midshaft, let it sit over night. I had lots of help on this part of the build, biggest decision that is still undecided is what to name this beast.
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Finishing up the pump area:
I decided on the RRP cut intake grate, fits perfect with zero grinding. Gotta love it!
Note; I purchase the Medium ride plate and will trim it down to a small if I decide its too long, figured that's cheaper than buying 2 plates. Have to try and save $ somewhere.
I decided on the RRP cut intake grate, fits perfect with zero grinding. Gotta love it!
Note; I purchase the Medium ride plate and will trim it down to a small if I decide its too long, figured that's cheaper than buying 2 plates. Have to try and save $ somewhere.
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This build required the use of 4 pool noodles from the dollar store. Blue tape it in and then reinforce the inside only with duct tape, this held for the entire build then removed cleanly when we were done. We used 2 here, the extra padding while working in the engine compartment was really nice during the build. I will show you where I used the other 2 later. I recommend getting pool noodles that match your ski but that's up to you. Engine Mounts Installed, time for the midshaft.
Handpole Bottom and Breather Tube Install:
The build is getting fun. If you want your friends to come over and help, buy a really good NY Style Pizza, this normally gets them over in 15 minutes or less
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Installed the bottom portion of the handpole. First thing we noticed is the tubes fit really tight so we used a shopvac and a Dremel with a sanding drum to open up each of the breather holes to be identical to the pole bracket holes. This allowed the tubes to be inserted from the bottom with moderate force. The Handpole bushing had to be pressed into the handpole bottom with a vise. With the bushings installed it was to wide to insert into the bracket. I sanded a small wedge out of the bottom of each bushing at a 45 degree angle until we could get it started then used a rubber mallet to pound it in.
I went with the RRP Lightweight handpole with full sized tubes (these are a great length by the way) This handpole is a piece of artwork.
Also, I went with Pinch bolts:
1) to use pinch bolts drill out the threaded side of the bracked with a 9/16 bit.
2) Cold Fusion bolts (pictured) Even though they look awesome cant fit 2 nuts. I decided to goto ace hardware and purchase 9/16ths "Fine thread" Bolts and hardware. The Bolts were inserted from the inside with the 2 nuts on the outside. This allows them to be easily tighted or adjusted at the lake.
The build is getting fun. If you want your friends to come over and help, buy a really good NY Style Pizza, this normally gets them over in 15 minutes or less
. Installed the bottom portion of the handpole. First thing we noticed is the tubes fit really tight so we used a shopvac and a Dremel with a sanding drum to open up each of the breather holes to be identical to the pole bracket holes. This allowed the tubes to be inserted from the bottom with moderate force. The Handpole bushing had to be pressed into the handpole bottom with a vise. With the bushings installed it was to wide to insert into the bracket. I sanded a small wedge out of the bottom of each bushing at a 45 degree angle until we could get it started then used a rubber mallet to pound it in.
I went with the RRP Lightweight handpole with full sized tubes (these are a great length by the way) This handpole is a piece of artwork.
Also, I went with Pinch bolts:
1) to use pinch bolts drill out the threaded side of the bracked with a 9/16 bit.
2) Cold Fusion bolts (pictured) Even though they look awesome cant fit 2 nuts. I decided to goto ace hardware and purchase 9/16ths "Fine thread" Bolts and hardware. The Bolts were inserted from the inside with the 2 nuts on the outside. This allows them to be easily tighted or adjusted at the lake.
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Controll Panel Install:
holes, and bilge outlets to sleep on overnight while I mount the ColdFusion (Now Blowsion) e-box mount and bilge pump using a blowsion mounting kit. I decided to put the control panel on the left so when riding I can still throttle using my right hand and still turn on and off the bilge bump with my left hand.
Note: I ended up purchasing the RRP adjustable hood latch and am happy I did, it simplified the hood install and works great.
If you install this perfectly centered the top two bolts can be used to mount your Pole limiting strap on the outside. It look really clean when done.
We did note that the blowsion control panel has sharp edges, it looks cool but I hate sharp edges on my ski. One more thing that can hurt someone.
In the box - The swtich is on left primer is on the right. We are doing this because the hood straps will cover the primer bulb then installed (you don't need access to the primer buld when riding
holes, and bilge outlets to sleep on overnight while I mount the ColdFusion (Now Blowsion) e-box mount and bilge pump using a blowsion mounting kit. I decided to put the control panel on the left so when riding I can still throttle using my right hand and still turn on and off the bilge bump with my left hand.
Note: I ended up purchasing the RRP adjustable hood latch and am happy I did, it simplified the hood install and works great.
If you install this perfectly centered the top two bolts can be used to mount your Pole limiting strap on the outside. It look really clean when done.
We did note that the blowsion control panel has sharp edges, it looks cool but I hate sharp edges on my ski. One more thing that can hurt someone.
In the box - The swtich is on left primer is on the right. We are doing this because the hood straps will cover the primer bulb then installed (you don't need access to the primer buld when riding
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Glassing in all the mounts:
I must say Rickter did a great job putting all the mounts in this hull for an EOM install. Since I'm using the limited slip 3.3 gallon tank with built in battery box, I had to cut out the OEM gas tank mount on the left. The rest of the mounts I found very useful. We mocked up the engine compartment and installed 3 mounting nubs using glass then carbon fiber.
I must say Rickter did a great job putting all the mounts in this hull for an EOM install. Since I'm using the limited slip 3.3 gallon tank with built in battery box, I had to cut out the OEM gas tank mount on the left. The rest of the mounts I found very useful. We mocked up the engine compartment and installed 3 mounting nubs using glass then carbon fiber.
Getting the Gastank and Waterbox ready:
The limited slip gas tank is another piece of art. It was actually a little drepressing but fun at the same time trying to figure out a good way to turf it up. I ended up turfing up the Back, the Bottom, and the first ~3 inches of the areae that would hit the OEM e-box area (which is were I am putting my RRP waterbox.
The RRP is nice and small compared to the TNT waterbox but it has a round bottom. I decided to use some foam to make sit flat on the Batterbox area then turf over it to protect it. (I don't know if its the waterbox or the turf on it but the sound this box makes is awesome, so deep and mean)
Note : Added 1 More layer of foam to bottom (not pictured) before turfing
We only used 1 Strap in this and its in rock solid but left the 4 mounts incase we want to install a 2nd strap in the future.
The limited slip gas tank is another piece of art. It was actually a little drepressing but fun at the same time trying to figure out a good way to turf it up. I ended up turfing up the Back, the Bottom, and the first ~3 inches of the areae that would hit the OEM e-box area (which is were I am putting my RRP waterbox.
The RRP is nice and small compared to the TNT waterbox but it has a round bottom. I decided to use some foam to make sit flat on the Batterbox area then turf over it to protect it. (I don't know if its the waterbox or the turf on it but the sound this box makes is awesome, so deep and mean)
Note : Added 1 More layer of foam to bottom (not pictured) before turfing
We only used 1 Strap in this and its in rock solid but left the 4 mounts incase we want to install a 2nd strap in the future.
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TNT Pipe fititng:
For the TNT Pipe Install we needed to figure out how to securely mount it at a perfect balance point so it wont add weight to the Exhaust manifold Coupler or the Ebox Coupler.
Once the balance point was determined I had to add some foam to the hull to level it out so the foam pads could be installed. In my case it required 2 foam blocks and 1 later of turf to get to the perfect height. We used 1 strap and the mount in the front of the hull and the front left gastank strap to mount the pipe. Its rock solid and wont move.
For the TNT Pipe Install we needed to figure out how to securely mount it at a perfect balance point so it wont add weight to the Exhaust manifold Coupler or the Ebox Coupler.
Once the balance point was determined I had to add some foam to the hull to level it out so the foam pads could be installed. In my case it required 2 foam blocks and 1 later of turf to get to the perfect height. We used 1 strap and the mount in the front of the hull and the front left gastank strap to mount the pipe. Its rock solid and wont move.
Handpole and Cable Install:
This is a really fun part of the install, its so pretty! RRP Lightweight OVP steering, 50 MM riser bars, RRP face pad, Blowsion Heavy duty Steering Cable,
XScream Trim System, Full length Carbon Poles. Blowsion Throttle lever, ODI Grips.
Started putting in some electrical and waterlines too:
Note: I was able to find the 36 inch blue silicone hose on Ebay for $30 shipped
This is a really fun part of the install, its so pretty! RRP Lightweight OVP steering, 50 MM riser bars, RRP face pad, Blowsion Heavy duty Steering Cable,
XScream Trim System, Full length Carbon Poles. Blowsion Throttle lever, ODI Grips.
Started putting in some electrical and waterlines too:
Note: I was able to find the 36 inch blue silicone hose on Ebay for $30 shipped
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Engine Install:
Installed the Engine then put in the pipe, gastank and waterbox to see hw it all fits.
Findings:
1) The first thing we noticed is the Freeriderz FiBox that I love so much just doesn't fit in this hull. I guess you can make it fit but you loose access to the throttle cable and it makes the engine compartment way too crowded. I am going to use regular Aftermarket Flame arrestors and put the Freeriderz airbox up for sale.
2) The other thing is the OEM coupler cover didn't want to fit so I trimmed the back part of it (that points at the firewall) about 3/4 inch or to the first rib on the underside. With that much trimming It fit and was I still able to connect it to the rubber mount on the midshaft.
OK I've barely slept in days but the adrenaline is now starting to kick in. I want this baby on the water.
Installed the Engine then put in the pipe, gastank and waterbox to see hw it all fits.
Findings:
1) The first thing we noticed is the Freeriderz FiBox that I love so much just doesn't fit in this hull. I guess you can make it fit but you loose access to the throttle cable and it makes the engine compartment way too crowded. I am going to use regular Aftermarket Flame arrestors and put the Freeriderz airbox up for sale.
2) The other thing is the OEM coupler cover didn't want to fit so I trimmed the back part of it (that points at the firewall) about 3/4 inch or to the first rib on the underside. With that much trimming It fit and was I still able to connect it to the rubber mount on the midshaft.
OK I've barely slept in days but the adrenaline is now starting to kick in. I want this baby on the water.
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Ninja Foot Holds:
Found a few issues with the footholds.
1) They were installed backwards from the factory, simple fix just unbolt them and swap them around.
2) My Feet don't fit in the holds. I have a size 10 foot but wear an 11 wrestling shoe so I can wear a bootie when its cold out. The Ski had an extra inch of padding installed at the factory. Have to do a quick fix to get this baby on the water
Note: Heal lifts are probably next but wanna ride it first to see how it feels
Found a few issues with the footholds.
1) They were installed backwards from the factory, simple fix just unbolt them and swap them around.
2) My Feet don't fit in the holds. I have a size 10 foot but wear an 11 wrestling shoe so I can wear a bootie when its cold out. The Ski had an extra inch of padding installed at the factory. Have to do a quick fix to get this baby on the water
Note: Heal lifts are probably next but wanna ride it first to see how it feels