My (Daytona?) "Freeride" SuperJet Project

[Sanford]

I'm hoping to have it done before January but will not rush it. Also depends on money... (If only I wasn't into $photography$). I really hope once I get it setup how "I" like it that I will grow to love the RN. See, I've been riding a SN for so long that when I get on a borrowed RN, it just doesn't do it for me. I simply love the way my SN rides (that happens to be for sale or parts).

I just put it on an accurate scale.....102 pounds as shown in pic (Stipped, primered and with footholds).

Next will be to reinforce sides, under pole mount, ect..

Items I will need to buy:
*Aluminum handpole
Lowered handpole bracket
UMI steering
Prop
Black trim - nose, sides, corners (may just turf it)

*optional at the moment

[SkiDaddy]

Cool Bro!:cool2:

[yamanube]

You should leave it that color (like a flesh color) just clear over it. Maybe put a nipple on the nose or paint it like a...well you know.

[sjetrider]

You should leave it that color (like a flesh color) just clear over it. Maybe put a nipple on the nose or paint it like a...well you know.

Quit flipping between porn and X-H20, pick one and stick with it:haha:

[yamanube]

HAHA, yeah its my mind that is flipping back and forth not my internet

[MADMAT]

Man I can't believe how fast January is coming!

[FL-cracker]

^^^^What Edwin said! 102lbs with foam right?

[Fly2day]

does anybody know the weight of a sn bare hull?

[Sanford]

102lbs with foam right?The original foam wasn't wet...so yes with foam.

I just bought all the biax and epoxy for it...will update on the weight after glassing.

[Sanford]

UPDATE: (11/27/06)

Sanded away the side ribs, seams filled with Fasco (cabosil/microballon mix), side rails (inside) done with 12oz Biax and 4oz mat. The void pocket under pole area was filled with 4lb foam, shaped then glassed over with 2.5 layers of 12oz Biax. Sides under front left & right of hull hood corners was beefed with extra Biax and covered with 4oz mat. I use 4oz mat because it leaves a smooth to the touch finish. Raw hardened Biax can really leave a lot of sharp pieces unless you sand it or apply tons of epoxy.

The epoxy resin was a 2:1 and wasn't put on thick or heavy. Just enough epoxy was used to saturate glass...and no more! (important part)

I'm now in the process to remove the old (urathane) paint job someone did and after its 100% stripped, I will be re-gelcoating the ski. Doing it in gelcoat is 5 times harder than having someone paint it...but I really prefer gelcoat when at all possible (more durable).

I've also drew up some (vector) graphics in FlexiSign, but nothing has jumped out and grabbed me yet. But this is icing and have more important work to do.

[Sanford]

more...

[DAG]

looking good

[Boris]

To good for the square nose, are we ?:cool2:


The glass does look purdy, keep a record of the weight. that info might be useful in the future. :biggthumpup:

[Sanford]

The glass does look purdy, keep a record of the weight. that info might be useful in the future. :biggthumpup:The new weight of bare hull after all glass work & large Wamilton scupper installed is 106 lbs (on digital scale). Even with the epoxy sides and scupper I only gained 4lbs. I've taken a heavier dump then that so its all good:Banane01:

[extreemthrottle]

I've taken a heavier dump then that so its all good:Banane01:

:haha: :haha: :haha:
sweet sanford! if you need a hand let me know, with the ski that is, i'm down for it!
i guess the blasters gone huh?! you still got your sq nose?

[demolition_x]

did you use knytex first then the 4oz cloth on top of that?


and thats black pigment int he resin right?

looks good

[Sanford]

i guess the blasters gone huh?! you still got your sq nose?Sold the B1 on a Wednesday and sold my original girl (SN SJ) on Thursday.

For the first time ever I am without a running ski :banghead: The line I use (justification) is it gives me motivation to finish my new SJ...but the truth is it sucks big time.

did you use knytex first then the 4oz cloth on top of that? and thats black pigment int he resin right? I layed 12oz biax first then 4oz "E glass" cloth (not "mat" like I originally stated) over the biax. What you see in the pictures is the E glass.

Yes, I used a small amount of black pigment. I even used that in mixing of the 2-part Fasco epoxy/cab/ballons for the seam. If you noticed I also built up the valley just in front of the scupper hole to aid water flow out.

[FL-cracker]

Nice job! 4lbs with scupper ant shiz.

[Sanford]

Today I completed all the fiberglass and epoxy work. Actually, I plan to make a mold for a front left foot hold that mounts to the firewall. I am lost without being able to plant my left foot under a lip (like you can with a SN/SJ). I will try to also make it a storage compartment for rope and other critical things.

Layed down 12oz biax on foot tray to tie in footholds - notice how the biax was cut to fit inside footholds (1-piece). Joined sides with more 4oz cloth. All I need to do is feather in the fiberglass (it will harden by tomorrow).

[Flash-FX]

Today I completed all the fiberglass and epoxy work. Actually, I plan to make a mold for a front left foot hold that mounts to the firewall. I am lost without being able to plant my left foot under a lip (like you can with a SN/SJ). I will try to also make it a storage compartment for rope and other critical things.

Layed down 12oz biax on foot tray to tie in footholds - notice how the biax was cut to fit inside footholds (1-piece). Joined sides with more 4oz cloth. All I need to do is feather in the fiberglass (it will harden by tomorrow).

Hey...That's looking sweet! Isn't it cool messin around with different resins/additives/combinations & mixtures. I love coloring outside the lines. Question, Why didn't you post your project under the 'Ski buildup' section?

[Sanford]

Question, Why didn't you post your project under the 'Ski buildup' section?Mostly because I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to properly document it. My main concern is completing it with the limited time I have to do it. We have had bad weather so its been easy posting stuff on it.

But your right, I should have Darin move it there. (Topic Moved!)

[sjetrider]

Today I completed all the fiberglass and epoxy work. Actually, I plan to make a mold for a front left foot hold that mounts to the firewall. I am lost without being able to plant my left foot under a lip (like you can with a SN/SJ). I will try to also make it a storage compartment for rope and other critical things.

Layed down 12oz biax on foot tray to tie in footholds - notice how the biax was cut to fit inside footholds (1-piece). Joined sides with more 4oz cloth. All I need to do is feather in the fiberglass (it will harden by tomorrow).

hate the holds, but love the instal and reinforcement instal too, nice work bro. :biggthumpup:

[extreemthrottle]

Sold the B1 on a Wednesday and sold my original girl (SN SJ) on Thursday.

For the first time ever I am without a running ski :banghead: The line I use (justification) is it gives me motivation to finish my new SJ...but the truth is it sucks big time.


[QUOTE=Sanford;151198]I will try to also make it a storage compartment for rope and other critical things.

all i got to say is HURRY!!
just kidding,i was thinking i have a extinguisher compartment (the kind with the handle) you can have it to hold your rope and stuff. shove it under the tiedown for the fuel tank maybe

[keefer]

Hopefully I will have a project RN hull coming to me soon. I want to do a reinforcement buildup like you are doing. Your glass work looks sweet!! and if you only gained 6 pounds, I think it is worth the time and money.

[Sanford]

i was thinking i have a extinguisher compartment (the kind with the handle) you can have it to hold your rope and stuff. shove it under the tiedown for the fuel tank maybeThanks for the offer bro. However, I've got the yellow container and a black fire extinguisher. Come to think of it...I have too much stuff, need to get rid of to make room for more stuff :woot:

Your glass work looks sweet!! and if you only gained 6 pounds, I think it is worth the time and money.Keep in mind not to over saturate with epoxy (ie. heavy and more brittle). Its a common mistake I see to often...gotta let the fiberglass do the work.

As for the "worth the time" comment...doing fiberglass reinforcement is a must for surf riding. I'm only doing this because I must and not because I like doing this. I rather ride then work on it.

[THRUST]

lookin good sanford get that thing done for daytona . call me if you need somethin

[yamaslut]

nice work Sanford!!
clean...

[Sanford]

Was able to work on it for 5hrs today :arms:

Another full day in prep and it should be ready for gelcoat.

BTW: Thanks everyone for the compliments...when I don't feel like I'm making progress, it helps.

[Sanford]

UPDATE: 12/26/06

Well, I haven't been able to work on my SJ because for the past several weeks I was working on a different "job" :sneaky:

This past friday I bought a gelcoat cup gun, 1 gallon of gelcoat, styrene, ect... Well, I finally finished with all the gelcoat and I'm ready to wet-sand and polish. The picture of the hood shows how it compares to the rough sanded body. The hood was wet-sanded with 1500 grit (but not polished).

I hope to completely finish the hull work this week so I can begin installing and setting everything else up.

When I took that "job" I knew I was risking not being able to finish my SJ for Daytona...but it was a rare oppertunity so... :woot:

As it stands, finishing it for Daytona is 50/50.

(more pictures when I finished wet-sanding/polishing)

[godocgo]

lookin sharp man, i should had you gelcoat my boat. how much you charge in?

[freestylegeek]

Looks great man!
Isn't it fun with Daytona constanly looming over your shoulder?

[Sanford]

lookin sharp man, i should had you gelcoat my boat. how much you charge in?This is the first time I've re-gelcoated a ski (completely). The hardest part was removing 100% of the old 2 layers of thick paint in order to apply this. You can't imagine how time consuming it is getting old (thick) paint out of all the tight spots like hood rail. I did it right by not using any body filler anywhere. All glass and gelcoat everywhere.

Also, spraying gelcoat with a cup-gun leaves massive orange peel that must be sanded with a R/A 220 then wet-sanded with 320, 600, 1000, 1500.

Now I know why everyone opts to paint. At least now when I'm bashing rails with friends at WOT I will easily be able to gel patch.

Uhmm...I'll trade you the W hull for a re-gelcoat job :purr:

[bad93blaster]

what is the hood and nose peice on there?

[Sanford]

what is the hood and nose peice on there?The hood is a Wamiltons and I'm not 100% sure on the nose piece.

[sjetrider]

that looks like a modded stock hood, doesnt look anything like my wammer hood. I was just gona ask if you modded it.

[tricky1]

that looks like a modded stock hood, doesnt look anything like my wammer hood. I was just gona ask if you modded it.

Its an older wammer race hood.

like this one..

[Sanford]

tricky1,

I'm pretty sure that is the actual hood that I got (nose cover too). It had the same blue paint and Paul (his driveway pic above) had it for a while. It had been modded on the inside for a dry pipe and someone used like 5lbs of resin to patch the inside...I removed all the mess and its now repaired correctly (back to original). Weighs only 13lbs again.

[WFO Speedracer]

I know it is a litte too late on this build but should you ever choose to regelcoat another ski there are two things you can do.One is called smoothie and it is added to the gelcoat in a small amount and helps the gelcoat flow out and reduces the orange peel.The other is called Duratec clear,the clear is mixed in 50/50 with the final coat of gelcoat and makes it much shinier and also flows it out rather well.Usually you can sand from 600 or 800 grit using either of these two methods thus drastically reducing sanding time.

[Idok]

Looks great man!
Isn't it fun with Daytona constanly looming over your shoulder?


you can say that again!

[Sanford]

The other is called Duratec clear,the clear is mixed in 50/50 with the final coat of gelcoatI was supposed to buy 2-quarts of white and 1/2 gallon of Duratec (clear). It was Friday and they didn't have any Duratec...I wanted to be done spraying by Tuesday. My fault for cutting it close.

[Sanford]

60 minutes into my easy "break-in" ritual I was heading back to shore doing 15 or 20mph (3K to 4K rpm - constant speed for 200ft) then it gently (if there is such a thing) siezed. I say gently because after it seized it started up...but I only idled to shore. Tore top end down and my rear piston is toast.

The story is very odd however and many things just don't add up. I check compression and its 195psi on the front (good cyl) and 190 on the rear (seized cyl). The odd thing is I am using 35cc domes and should have a mathematical compression of 185psi...not 195psi.

It gets even more odd. I made the mistake of not double checking the new bore clearance (piston to cylinder wall)...in the rush I "assumed" the machine shop did their job. Turns out there is .065" piston clearance. While this is a little high, certainly not the cause of the siezure. If nothing else, it would/should have helped with the greater clearance...not caused it.

Carbs were jetted right (135/72.5) and screws were fat. Base gasket was mint. Cases sealed well.

I'm scared to re-bore it and throw new pistons in it because I didn't find anything really wrong.

The only 2 things really odd is the larger clearance cylinder and I'm using a Blowsion billet head (with 35cc domes - on non big-bore 61x).

I am so sick about this because it just doesn't make sense. If I found the problem during disassembly, I would rush to bore, new pistons and get this done....but without a clear reason...:banghead:

Ran fantastic for the first 59 minutes.

[WaveDemon]

did you check your squish?

[Mark44]

What was you squish? Did you pressure test the motor before you put it in?

Mark44

[Sanford]

The other odd thing is my squish is .052" and not under the critical .040"

[WaveDemon]

what brand piston did you use? did you check your ring end gap?

I bet it's not an assembly error. I'd look real hard at the carbs. group k has an article on partial throttle siezure. I remember that it said something about being at the torque peak and some carbs don't handle that situation well.

[WaveDemon]

seizure articles:
http://groupk.com/tec-seizures.htm
http://groupk.com/tec-rearseize.htm

the break in seizure looks like it's worth looking into in the first link. it talks about bad ring gap.

[Sanford]

what brand piston did you use? did you check your ring end gap?

I bet it's not an assembly error. I'd look real hard at the carbs. group k has an article on partial throttle siezure. I remember that it said something about being at the torque peak and some carbs don't handle that situation well.Pro-X pistons. My favorite brand and used them for years.

The carbs are pair of stock 38's off a SJ...again...this is all pretty standard stuff.

[the only couch rider]

saki sabotaged you simple as that

[Sanford]

UPDATE:

I've got new pistons, bore cylinder tomorrow and new 37cc (smaller) domes from Blowsion coming 2-day air. I'm also putting back a stock CDI just in case (at least for the break-in period). This is going to be sooooo close...

If I can't finish a solid day of water testing after setup again, I will not push it and save it for another day. At the very least, I will be bringing all my fancy camera gear and will be a on the beach shooting pix....but I'd rather ride.

[FLY6584]

What kind of guage were you using? I'm running 35cc domes and on my buddies guage it says I'm running 200psi and on my guage it says 185psi.

[Sanford]

It isn't a fancy gauge but as a reference, I put a stock head on it and it was dead on at 150psi! So I know the gauge is pretty close to correct.

For break-in I'm going to detune a little.

[douglee25]

Just a guess here, but if you were at partial throttle coming back to the dock, you were probably in the low jet circuit. 72.5 for a low jet seems on the lean side or border line anyway. I would fatten up the low side 78 maybe?

Thoughts?

Edit: Have you tried reverse jetting on the 38's? I'm pretty certain your 72.5 low jet was the cause of your seizure.

Doug

[Sanford]

I'm pretty certain your 72.5 low jet was the cause of your seizure.I had a Blaster with same motor (mod pipe also) with a #70 pilot jet and never had an issue. Besides, Factory pipe also suggests #70.

This motor is setup as a very typical "limited" and this same package has been used many times, this is why I've pretty much eliminated jetting as the issue.

If this was a "lean" seizure then there would be pretty heavy scoring on mostly the exhaust port. Not the case here. Also, if this was caused by the pilot jet being too small, one would feel hesitation just off idle. Ski had a smooth powerband with no gurgling, transition gaps or anything.

BTW: Thanks everyone for the ideas, I appreciate all of them.

[SkiDaddy]

Sorry to hear about the problems Sanford. It looks like it may have been a 4 corner seizure, can't really tell from the pics. You probably can lighyly sand & reuse the pistons;muriatic acid may have cleaned the aluminum off the cylinder walls.

Anyway, some things to check:

1. Did it hold 6 PSi for 6 minutes?
2. Was the premix ratio correct?
3. Check the tank breather valve; if it's not working right or there's an obstruction it'll run lean.
4. Check the fuel filters in the carbs & main fuel filter.
5. On my ported 701 I was running 77.5 pilots & 137.5 mains w/OEM 38s. I'd richen up the pilots; it won't hurt anything.
6. You may have had too much water if you're running dual cooling. Consider running restricters during the winter.
7. Was the other piston damaged at all? If not, narrow your search. Perhaps a seal blew out.

[Sanford]

1. Did it hold 6 PSi for 6 minutes?
2. Was the premix ratio correct?
3. Check the tank breather valve; if it's not working right or there's an obstruction it'll run lean.
4. Check the fuel filters in the carbs & main fuel filter.
5. On my ported 701 I was running 77.5 pilots & 137.5 mains w/OEM 38s. I'd richen up the pilots; it won't hurt anything.
6. You may have had too much water if you're running dual cooling. Consider running restricters during the winter.
7. Was the other piston damaged at all? If not, narrow your search. Perhaps a seal blew out.
1) In the rush, I failed to do a leakdown test :banghead: Won't happen again.

2) 32:1 for initial break-in period (4 gallons). 40:1 after. Yes I know this is debatable but I've done it like this in the past plenty of times.

3) Check valve works like it should. Nothing blocking vents or fittings.

4) New fuel filter, carbs completely tore down and cleaned.

5) I'll be fatting up all jets to be perfectly safe. I just want to get past the critical break-in period so I can really get into dialing it in. Thanks for the jetting specs.

6) The water temp at lake was 70 degrees and had my hands on pissers most the time - they felt just fine (not too hot, not too cold).

7) Front piston was fine. But honestly I wasn't really pushing it and had I, I'm sure they both would have stuck. All new seals, no seals blew out.

Checked crank...its perfectly at 180 degrees.

BTW: What N/S & spring did you use and how heavily ported with what head?

[WaveDemon]

7) Front piston was fine. But honestly I wasn't really pushing it and had I, I'm sure they both would have stuck. All new seals, no seals blew out.don't forget to check the ring gap, if it's too small the rings will wipe away the lubrication.

[sjetrider]

60 minutes into my easy "break-in" ritual I was heading back to shore doing 15 or 20mph (3K to 4K rpm - constant speed for 200ft) then it gently (if there is such a thing) siezed. I say gently because after it seized it started up...but I only idled to shore. Tore top end down and my rear piston is toast.

The story is very odd however and many things just don't add up. I check compression and its 195psi on the front (good cyl) and 190 on the rear (seized cyl). The odd thing is I am using 35cc domes and should have a mathematical compression of 185psi...not 195psi.

It gets even more odd. I made the mistake of not double checking the new bore clearance (piston to cylinder wall)...in the rush I "assumed" the machine shop did their job. Turns out there is .065" piston clearance. While this is a little high, certainly not the cause of the siezure. If nothing else, it would/should have helped with the greater clearance...not caused it.

Carbs were jetted right (135/72.5) and screws were fat. Base gasket was mint. Cases sealed well.

I'm scared to re-bore it and throw new pistons in it because I didn't find anything really wrong.

The only 2 things really odd is the larger clearance cylinder and I'm using a Blowsion billet head (with 35cc domes - on non big-bore 61x).

I am so sick about this because it just doesn't make sense. If I found the problem during disassembly, I would rush to bore, new pistons and get this done....but without a clear reason...:banghead:

Ran fantastic for the first 59 minutes.

I hope this is .0065" and if it is this is not your issue. If you have 190 comp in bad cylinder, my guess is lack of octane siezer. You said the piston was toast? how? Is it melted, chipped out on exhaust side above upper ring, were they in right? Switch domes to 36cc or run 100 octane.

[FLY6584]

I had a Blaster with same motor (mod pipe also) with a #70 pilot jet and never had an issue. Besides, Factory pipe also suggests #70.

This motor is setup as a very typical "limited" and this same package has been used many times, this is why I've pretty much eliminated jetting as the issue.

If this was a "lean" seizure then there would be pretty heavy scoring on mostly the exhaust port. Not the case here. Also, if this was caused by the pilot jet being too small, one would feel hesitation just off idle. Ski had a smooth powerband with no gurgling, transition gaps or anything.

BTW: Thanks everyone for the ideas, I appreciate all of them.

I'm running 70 pilots and 135 mains on my stock 701 with bpipe, 38's, and ada head(35cc domes) and it runs perfect. I did go a little fat on my screw settings to play it safe. I dont ever really run WOT either.

[SkiDaddy]

1) In the rush, I failed to do a leakdown test :banghead: Won't happen again.

2) 32:1 for initial break-in period (4 gallons). 40:1 after. Yes I know this is debatable but I've done it like this in the past plenty of times.

3) Check valve works like it should. Nothing blocking vents or fittings.

4) New fuel filter, carbs completely tore down and cleaned.

5) I'll be fatting up all jets to be perfectly safe. I just want to get past the critical break-in period so I can really get into dialing it in. Thanks for the jetting specs.

6) The water temp at lake was 70 degrees and had my hands on pissers most the time - they felt just fine (not too hot, not too cold).

7) Front piston was fine. But honestly I wasn't really pushing it and had I, I'm sure they both would have stuck. All new seals, no seals blew out.

Checked crank...its perfectly at 180 degrees.

BTW: What N/S & spring did you use and how heavily ported with what head?

1.5 N&S, I think it was a 65 gram spring. Porting was a mild race port massaged by Paul for better low end. 190 PSi comp. 33cc domes, 81.5mm pistons. It ran well till I melted a piston from having (unknowingly) a 650 headpipe.

I did do sustained WOT runs too. Many times.

[SkiDaddy]

Oh yeah, remebered I have an MSD & was running 3 degrees initial advance.

[Sanford]

I took carbs off again and I found something. The low jet on the seized carb has a TINY particle sitting next to the jet hole. It wasn't blocking it but it could have blocked it....seized...then after turning motor on/off 3 other times it could have dislodged again. So far that has been the only actual culprit (besides the odd higher than should have 195psi compression)...yet it wasn't blocked when I took it apart. However, this MAY explain why it ran so good up to that short second.

I could care less if I had to buy a crank, piston or whole motor....I just want that feeling of knowing exactly what caused (the smoking gun theory).

don't forget to check the ring gap, if it's too small the rings will wipe away the lubrication.
Ring gap was within spec (relative to bore/piston clearance). If anything, the bore was .0015 bigger than I would have chosen.


I hope this is .0065" and if it is this is not your issue. If you have 190 comp in bad cylinder, my guess is lack of octane siezer. You said the piston was toast? how? Is it melted, chipped out on exhaust side above upper ring, were they in right? Switch domes to 36cc or run 100 octane.:bigeyes: Yeah, I meant .0065" :smile:

I said toast in the general sense. Once a piston makes contact with the wall, I don't care how little it is or that I could possibly hone and clean it up. Its toast in my eyes and time for new one. Yep, as I mentioned above, I ordered 37cc domes 2-day air (37cc=170psi 35cc=185psi). Post #47 has pictures of seizure.

I'm running 70 pilots and 135 mains on my stock 701 with bpipe, 38's, and ada head(35cc domes) and it runs perfect. I did go a little fat on my screw settings to play it safe. I dont ever really run WOT either.Yep and so do many others. Its a straight up simple setup that works. However, I do lots of WOT out on the ocean.

[Scorn800]

Did the plugs look wet? like water? Possible head leaking water into cylinder?

[douglee25]

Isn't the pilot circuit taken out of the equation on a WOT run? Maybe my memory is incorrect, but I could have sworn the main circuit was only used on a WOT run. If that's the case, that could be the reason why you never felt anything if you were more in the upper end of the throttle range. Once you stepped down, the low circuit came into effect and thus your problem.

Doug

[Sanford]

No water leaks. Water doesn't cause engine seizures. If there was a leak in the head, my compression would be lower anyway.

The MAIN jet actually runs operates between 30% to 100% throttle. The whole time I was operating under 50% throttle. I only went past 50% for maybe .5 second at a time (brap).

[douglee25]

No water leaks. Water doesn't cause engine seizures. If there was a leak in the head, my compression would be lower anyway.

The MAIN jet actually runs operates between 30% to 100% throttle. The whole time I was operating under 50% throttle. I only went past 50% for maybe .5 second at a time (brap).

Interesting. Well, bore it out and run it!:biggthumpup:

Doug

[SkiDaddy]

While it's apart, double check the headpipe diameter per this post:

http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=9561

Probably not the culprit, but it's easy to check....

Good luck with it.

[Sanford]

SkiDaddy, your correct but this is a brand new pipe from FP and all the manifolds have been updated.

(I'll update with more completed ski pictures later)

Hopefully I'll see all you mofo's at Daytona!

[sjetrider]

SkiDaddy, your correct but this is a brand new pipe from FP and all the manifolds have been updated.

(I'll update with more completed ski pictures later)

Hopefully I'll see all you mofo's at Daytona!

Be there, even if you come w/ parts in a crate. It wont take 3 people 2 hrs. and a 6 pack ea. to have it running.

[Sanford]

Be there, even if you come w/ parts in a crate. It wont take 3 people 2 hrs. and a 6 pack ea. to have it running.:biggthumpup:

Assembly isn't the issue, I can do that in 38 minutes, I need to take my time with the initial break-in and monitor this so it doesn't happen again. If I don't get it done in time I'll be the guy on the beach (Daytona) with the 2ft camera lens :cool2:

[PAIR-A-DICE]

:biggthumpup:

Assembly isn't the issue, I can do that in 38 minutes, I need to take my time with the initial break-in and monitor this so it doesn't happen again. If I don't get it done in time I'll be the guy on the beach (Daytona) with the 2ft camera lens :cool2:

Hey, do you still have a lens or two for sale?

I might be interested if you do.

It will be good to meet you. :biggthumpup:

[sjetrider]

:biggthumpup:

Assembly isn't the issue, I can do that in 38 minutes, I need to take my time with the initial break-in and monitor this so it doesn't happen again. If I don't get it done in time I'll be the guy on the beach (Daytona) with the 2ft camera lens :cool2:

Bring it on bro, I will have an extra boat and I am sure many more will as well. :arms:

[Nitrousboy1]

Sanford the offer to take my ski this weekend is still on the table so if you don't get that ski set up, just come by and take my ski. I heard it in the garage last night calling your name!


Oh yeah, that turf job is SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!

[Big Kahuna]

No water leaks. Water doesn't cause engine seizures. If there was a leak in the head, my compression would be lower anyway.

The MAIN jet actually runs operates between 30% to 100% throttle. The whole time I was operating under 50% throttle. I only went past 50% for maybe .5 second at a time (brap).

actually, the there is enough of a leak, it can "wash" the oil right off the piston causing it to score the cylinder walls.

[Sanford]

UPDATE 1/12/07 @ 1:30am: I just finished putting motor back together. Pressure tested it and it held perfect. Redid carbs, changed several 1hr old gaskets with new ones just in case. Increased pilot jet to #75 (from #72.5). Installed new 37cc domes. Basically everything has been gone over once again :bigeyes::bigeyes::bs2::cat40:

I am mentally and physically tired!! I water test in the mornin' :noevil: If all goes well I can then do a few detail things I've been setting aside.

I've got a bunch of new pictures I haven't had the chance to post...will post some when I get the time.

Sanford the offer to take my ski this weekend is still on the table so if you don't get that ski set up, just come by and take my ski. I heard it in the garage last night calling your name!Thanks bro. However, as I told you, I never like to borrow peoples skis. Different setups and not use to its "feel" can cause accidents (body). Thanks again.
actually, the there is enough of a leak, it can "wash" the oil right off the piston causing it to score the cylinder walls.Water doesn't wash oil. The real harm in the water is it does not compress or ignite. Which can lead to crushed piston rings. But this would need to be some very obvious (prolonged) water intrusion...the only water found in this motor was in the water jackets :cool2:

[Big Kahuna]

Water doesn't wash oil. The real harm in the water is it does not compress or ignite. Which can lead to crushed piston rings. But this would need to be some very obvious (prolonged) water intrusion...the only water found in this motor was in the water jackets :cool2:


after you have a year on your motor, and have gotten a fair amount of waterinjestion, pull the motor, look at the interesting vertical scoring lines......

[Sanford]

Was at lake putting time on motor and tweaking, then while sitting on trailer with motor running (adjusting carbs), motor stopped instantly!

Turns out with my luck I sucked the most nasty nylon webbing I've ever seen. It wrapped so tight I couldn't cut it off, of burn it off with the torch. I had to pull pump to get this mess off the driveshaft.

Thats it, I give up...it just wasn't meant to be I guess :banghead::banghead:

I'll screw with my SJ next week.

[SkiDaddy]

Well, tomorrow's another day.:woot:

I just spent an hour & a half trying to see why my ski wouldn't start (did get 6 sessions in today before it acted up :arms: ). Turns out it was the starter. What a royal pain to replace! Ready for tommorrow!

[Sanford]

Well, time to call this project finished. Technically it isn't, but its finished enough for this post.

Here are some final pictures. Don't mind the graphics, they are temporary until I get my hands on that 40" plotter.

[Sanford]

Another 4.

Larger and clearer pictures (with description) on link below in my signature.

[RiverRat]

Clean :cheer: Nice job :smile:

[Boris]

http://www.x-h2o.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=18955&d=1169435251

Looks like a mean 4 wheeler in that picture.

I like the clean look but I guess with a 40" plotter that will soon change.
:biggthumpup:

[Sanford]

ill bring some beers!What do you take me for, some CL whore? I don't drink...my addiction is +70% dark chocolate :bigeyes:
I like the clean look but..Yeah, I do too. I like the low key, no bling thing.