Freestylegeek's squarenose conversion

[freestylegeek]

Well, here it starts.
I sold my beloved 1996 hull (with my sacred 24-7 hood and nosepiece).
Now, I'm building a squarenose conversion.

The new hull started out as a 1994 squarenose.
I cut the top deck off, and removed the foam.
I removed all the stock sealant around the waterlines and driveshaft tube.
I moved the steering location up and to the right in order to clear the cooling line boss on the pump, and make my trim more effective.
I cut 2" off the back of the hull in order to help with flatwater backflips.

My top deck and hood kit ship out from XFT on 9-29-06.
The top deck weighs around 13 lbs and the hood also weighs 13 lbs.
The squarenose hull bottom weighs 56lbs.
My goal is to get as close to 80lbs as possible when the hull is complete.

I will post a few pictures of the start of this project.
I will be updating as I go along.
So far, it has been way more fun than I thought it would be.

[Matt_E]

Time to remove that link in your sig.

[Mile9c1]

The squarenose hull bottom weighs 56lbs.


Just the shell?

[FL-cracker]

interesting, how the hell can a 13lb top deck hold up is all I wana no.:bigeyes:

[Boris]

OK, I'll be watching this one.

Sounds like something I would like to do next year.

Good luck and keep the camera close by.

[djkorn1]

Your nuts... you better work fast. Daytona is coming up soon!

[Freestyleriverrat]

pics of the progress thus far?

[freestylegeek]

pics of the progress thus far?

Well, untill we get to this new dedicated server that Darin is all excited about, you'll have to look at the pictures here (http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?p=918298#post918298).

[freestylegeek]

Time to remove that link in your sig.

Good call!
I almost forgot about that!

[freestylegeek]

Just the shell?

Just the BOTTOM half.
No foam, just the fiberglass.
56 freakin' pounds.

[freestylegeek]

interesting, how the hell can a 13lb top deck hold up is all I wana no.:bigeyes:

divinycell core - that's how.

I could have save an additional 2 lbs by going with carbon fiber, but the budget was a little tight.

Not to mention that the geometery in certain areas (pole bracket mount, hood seal lip, etc..) has been changed in order to be stronger.

[freestylegeek]

OK, I'll be watching this one.

Sounds like something I would like to do next year.

Good luck and keep the camera close by.


Once you decide to do it, you'll see it's easier than you thought.
I've already got 50 pictures and I haven't even started glassing anything yet!

[freestylegeek]

Your nuts... you better work fast. Daytona is coming up soon!

Don't you worry - I hear the sound of the tide slowly rising...:sneaky:


(that sounded a lot cooler in my head than when I typed it...)

[Big Kahuna]

good luck Matt.

[SuperJETT]

Well, untill we get to this new dedicated server that Darin is all excited about, you'll have to look at the pictures here (http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?p=918298#post918298).

We're on the dedicated server, and attachments **might** be working for everyone, but nobody decided to help me out here (http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=7652)

[freestylegeek]

good luck Matt.

Thanks Harrison, but I need skill not luck. :biggthumpup:

[RMBC Freeride]

Geek, I'll be watching this thread carefully as I have a similar project in the works... But using a WCF top deck. Actually it has been ongoing since last year. Guess I should start my own thread. but I'm also shortening the hull a little (did it differently though) and hacking away at anything heavy on the smc bottom such as bulkhead mounting bosses, etc. Oh, and all the thru-hull tubes will be carbon fiber: exhaust, scupper, driveshaft tube & water/cable tubes. those wer fun to make/aquire :sneaky:

Got a pic or measurement of the steering cable relocation? I need to do that too.

EDIT: Started my own thread here: RMBC Freeride's roundnose conversion (http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=7977)

[freestylegeek]

Geek, I'll be watching this thread carefully as I have a similar project in the works... But using a WCF top deck. Actually it has been ongoing since last year. Guess I should start my own thread. but I'm also shortening the hull a little (did it differently though) and hacking away at anything heavy on the smc bottom such as bulkhead mounting bosses, etc. Oh, and all the thru-hull tubes will be carbon fiber: exhaust, scupper, driveshaft tube & water/cable tubes. those wer fun to make/aquire :sneaky:

Got a pic or measurement of the steering cable relocation? I need to do that too.

EDIT: Started my own thread here: RMBC Freeride's roundnose conversion (http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=7977)

That's GREAT Neil!
I'm sure I'll end up asking you some questions along the way.

As far as the steering relocation goes, I only have the hole cut right now.
I need to glass in around it and contour it.

Those SMC hulls are NOT light!

[freestylegeek]

Pictures so far:

[freestylegeek]

more.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Your not doing the 45 degree angle on the back?

[TB]

hey matt what'd you do with that top deck.....:sneaky:i have an idea:sneaky:

[freestylegeek]

Your not doing the 45 degree angle on the back?

Nope.
It would be too much work to build the back pieces.
I would feel much more comfortable glassing in the original pieces.

Also, I will be mounting a scupper to one of them, so I need to have it perpendicular in order to properly seal.

[freestylegeek]

hey matt what'd you do with that top deck.....:sneaky:i have an idea:sneaky:

I donated it to the local landfill.
I DON'T think you want to go get it.

[Matt_E]

Are you going to shorten the rear bond rail, too?

[freestylegeek]

Are you going to shorten the rear bond rail, too?

The lip will be removed, but the top will be the same.

[Matt_E]

Does the back of the topdeck extend beyond the lip/bottom hull then? I have some trouble picturing this.

[TB]

I donated it to the local landfill.
I DON'T think you want to go get it.


:damnit: :damnit: :chairshot:

[SuperJETT]

Does the back of the topdeck extend beyond the lip/bottom hull then? I have some trouble picturing this.

http://www.x-h2o.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=270&pos=45

http://www.x-h2o.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=270&pos=22

http://www.x-h2o.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=270&pos=27

[romack991]

Looks good geek! so cutting the hull isnt really supposed to hurt other tricks? I was still debating that since I'm not that dedicated to only tricks.

hmm, i should get motivated and try to keep pace with you guys...

[Freestyleriverrat]

Looks good geek! so cutting the hull isnt really supposed to hurt other tricks? I was still debating that since I'm not that dedicated to only tricks.

hmm, i should get motivated and try to keep pace with you guys...

I rode Malones boat and really liked how it handled. You can easily bring the nose up but it would also carve like crazy. Sweet ski. I like the shorter hull as well.

[michael950]

So is the bottom deck of the RN and SN hulls 100% identical?

RN pump and everything fit a SN like original?

[Freestyleriverrat]

So is the bottom deck of the RN and SN hulls 100% identical?

RN pump and everything fit a SN like original?

Yes, but Malones boat has a SXR style bottom on it which explains the great handling

[FL-cracker]

Does anyone know exactly how long Malones hulls are???

Has anyone ever tried taking 2"s off the back of a SJ? I cant wait to here how it works.

[unclehulka13]

13 pounds is rediculously light. If this holds up, i'll bow down to sergio forever.
Seems quite impossible, but if anyone can do it, i bet its him.

[waterfreak]

That shorter hull will make a huge difference!!:biggthumpup:

Cool build Matt, keep us posted:woot:

This boat should be alot lighter than an oem roundnose .That SMC sure is some dense heavy stuff:frown: Unfortunetly, most of the weight lies in bottom hull itself.

Do you have a front nose mold to rebuild the lip area?

[romack991]

So is the bottom deck of the RN and SN hulls 100% identical?

RN pump and everything fit a SN like original?

No, the front nose of the square is cut off and then you use a mold to glass a new one for the roundie, the rest is the same. only component that is different is that the intermediate hsg on the 90-93 has a different bolt pattern.

[FL-cracker]

Does anyone have any lengths/specifications on some of the aftermarket hull's that are out there...... I cant seem to find anything, this is the first I have realy though about it.

[Matt_E]

Thanks for the pic links Darin.

[Matt_E]

No, the front nose of the square is cut off and then you use a mold to glass a new one for the roundie, the rest is the same. only component that is different is that the intermediate hsg on the 90-93 has a different bolt pattern.

The square hull has six inserts for the rideplate - roundie (at least mine) have only four.

[sjetrider]

Watercraft Factory (Steve) had a version of the shortened hull at Lanear build off. Only issue he had was the scupper wich it seems you have addressed.
He won the buikd off also (rightfully so)

[freestylegeek]

Does the back of the topdeck extend beyond the lip/bottom hull then? I have some trouble picturing this.


The top deck will fit the same as the stocker.
Once they are joined together, I will cut off the 'vertical' section of the lip.
Take a look at the back of Malone's boats, and I think you'll get the idea of what I'll be doing.

[freestylegeek]

Looks good geek! so cutting the hull isnt really supposed to hurt other tricks? I was still debating that since I'm not that dedicated to only tricks.

hmm, i should get motivated and try to keep pace with you guys...

Sergio mentioned that the shorter hull uses more throttle to adjust the attitude of the ski, rather than body position.
That's one of the reasons I only cut 2" off the back.
Sergio has gone as far as 5", but he prefers 4".
He recomended 2" for my height and weight.

[freestylegeek]

So is the bottom deck of the RN and SN hulls 100% identical?

RN pump and everything fit a SN like original?

They are the same.
The nose is different, and the roundnose hulls had screw boss' where the bulkhead is held in place during assembly.
Other than that, everything will bolt right in.

[freestylegeek]

Does anyone know exactly how long Malones hulls are???

Has anyone ever tried taking 2"s off the back of a SJ? I cant wait to here how it works.


I was told Malone's hull is 3" shorter than an SXR.

[freestylegeek]

That shorter hull will make a huge difference!!:biggthumpup:

Cool build Matt, keep us posted:woot:

This boat should be alot lighter than an oem roundnose .That SMC sure is some dense heavy stuff:frown: Unfortunetly, most of the weight lies in bottom hull itself.

Do you have a front nose mold to rebuild the lip area?

Thanks Steve!
Even though there will still be a lot of weight in the bottom hull, I am hoping the ski may feel a little more stable due to the lower center of gravity.

Sergio includes a front lip that I will glass in.
That will be a HUGE help!

Now, I wonder what kind of footholds I should put in this thing...:dunno:

[freestylegeek]

The square hull has six inserts for the rideplate - roundie (at least mine) have only four.


Which actually comes in handy when you're shortening the hull.
Even 2" will eliminate the back two inserts.
With a Squarenose bottom, I can cut a stock rideplate to fit, then bolt it in place with 4 bolts.

[freestylegeek]

... only component that is different is that the intermediate hsg on the 90-93 has a different bolt pattern.

One of the big reasons I chose a 94 hull to do this on.
It's the same bearing housing as the 96-07.

[Idok]

One of the big reasons I chose a 94 hull to do this on.
It's the same bearing housing as the 96-07.




nice.

[#ZERO]

OMG you’re really modifying this hull!

Do you think your steering nozzle will hit the sides of the hull after its two inches shorter.

Just curious where do they glue the hull halves together, is it glued between the top and bottom, around the rails or both? What type of glue are they using and how hard is it to separate them?

[djkorn1]

Cool project....be careful, I hear there is a huge shortage of metal flake:cool2:

I should chop off the back of my SXR... wonder what that would do???

[SuperJETT]

Cool project....be careful, I hear there is a huge shortage of metal flake:cool2:


:haha:

[freestylegeek]

OMG you’re really modifying this hull!

Do you think your steering nozzle will hit the sides of the hull after its two inches shorter.

Just curious where do they glue the hull halves together, is it glued between the top and bottom, around the rails or both? What type of glue are they using and how hard is it to separate them?


The steering nozzle will have even more clearance with the hull being shorter.

The halves are glued primaraly on the top of the bond flange.
Some of the adhesive may work it's way down the vertical edge of the flange, but it's designed to be bonded on the top.

I will be using Either MarineTex or ITW Plexus for bonding adhesive.

On a side note, one of the nice things about buying a complete hull from XFT is the fact that he has equipment to bond the top and bottom with epoxy resin. Basically, it creates a 'monocoque' type design where the material is all one thing from top to bottom - no bond line.
It makes the structure lighter and stronger.

[freestylegeek]

Cool project....be careful, I hear there is a huge shortage of metal flake:cool2:



It's a good thing I saved half of my metalflake from last time then! LOL!:cool2:

[WAB]

I will be modifying my squarenose hull over the winter and was planning on shortening the rear also. What are you doing about the exhaust tube? Getting rid of it, or just shortening it also or letting the additional 2inches stick out inside the hull?

[RMBC Freeride]

I will be using Either MarineTex or ITW Plexus for bonding adhesive.

Plexus rocks! Although it is rather expensive and not easy to get from any retail sources. I have used the MA310 on smc before and it is incredible. Did my last set of footholds with it too. So easy to use, no measuring or mixing, minimal surface prep required. I have been hoarding some tubes of the 310 for my build!

[freestylegeek]

I will be modifying my squarenose hull over the winter and was planning on shortening the rear also. What are you doing about the exhaust tube? Getting rid of it, or just shortening it also or letting the additional 2inches stick out inside the hull?


I am eliminating it, and doing an XFT rear side exhaust.
I'm real currious about what tailstands will be like with it.

[freestylegeek]

Plexus rocks! Although it is rather expensive and not easy to get from any retail sources. I have used the MA310 on smc before and it is incredible. Did my last set of footholds with it too. So easy to use, no measuring or mixing, minimal surface prep required. I have been hoarding some tubes of the 310 for my build!

OK then, sounds like you've run into the same problem I have!!:banghead: :banghead:

Where the heck can you get it from?
Also, how many tubes do you think you'll need for the project?
If you can get any more, let me know and I'll buy it off you.

[Island750]

This is going to be an awesome thread.:arms: :Banane01: I am doing a square conversion soon as well. I hope to get the topdeck off in a few weeks and get started.


Keep it coming Geek, I'm sure the thing will be awesome, I can't wait to see it in all it's metalflaky glory!!!:hail: :woot:

[djkorn1]

pics???????????????????????????????:bigeyes:

[freestylegeek]

pics???????????????????????????????:bigeyes:

The pics on the post #19 and #20 are all I've done so far.
Tomorrow evening and this weekend I hope to cut the other side down, and possibly fill in the stock exhaust hole.
I may start glassing around my steering cable relocation area too.

This is a riot!
(although, not quite as fun as it will be when it's DONE!)

[waterfreak]

The steering nozzle will have even more clearance with the hull being shorter.

The shorter hull makes a huge difference for turning. :arms:

I will be using Either MarineTex or ITW Plexus for bonding adhesive.

On a side note, one of the nice things about buying a complete hull from XFT is the fact that he has equipment to bond the top and bottom with epoxy resin. Basically, it creates a 'monocoque' type design where the material is all one thing from top to bottom - no bond line.
It makes the structure lighter and stronger.

What is a "monocoque" ? Is that french? lol
I like to use expoxy thicken up with milled fibers to bond the hull and deck together. Once it's together, I lay the hull on it's side and then fill the bond line until their solid. SMC is very tricky to work with. Make sure to sand the surface with some very coarse sandpaper and clean thoughrouly afterwards with acetone.

[freestylegeek]

What is a "monocoque" ? Is that french? lol
I like to use expoxy thicken up with milled fibers to bond the hull and deck together. Once it's together, I lay the hull on it's side and then fill the bond line until their solid. SMC is very tricky to work with. Make sure to sand the surface with some very coarse sandpaper and clean thoughrouly afterwards with acetone.

I'm planning on hitting everything that will be bonded with 36 grit sandpaper and roughing the CRAP outta it! I don't want to take the slightest chance of this thing ever coming apart.

I would rather use epoxy and fibers, but in order to mix up enough stuff...I'd need a 5 gallon pail!:bigeyes:
Not to mention a pretty slow activating hardener.

and Monocoque is indeed a French word:
"Monocoque - French word (one shell) describing the single-unit construction"

au revoir! :biggrin:

[waterfreak]

I'm planning on hitting everything that will be bonded with 36 grit sandpaper and roughing the CRAP outta it! I don't want to take the slightest chance of this thing ever coming apart.

I would rather use epoxy and fibers, but in order to mix up enough stuff...I'd need a 5 gallon pail!:bigeyes:
Not to mention a pretty slow activating hardener.

and Monocoque is indeed a French word:
"Monocoque - French word (one shell) describing the single-unit construction"

au revoir! :biggrin:

Have you ever picked up a 5 gallon pail?? You ski would weigh a ton:rolleyes:

I can do an entire ski (bonding ,re-inforcing ect...) with one gallon of epoxy . I use the 1:1 activator for bonding and the 1:2 activator for re-inforcing. Once you add the milled fibers, it almost doubles the quantity.

[freestylegeek]

Have you ever picked up a 5 gallon pail?? You ski would weigh a ton:rolleyes:

I can do an entire ski (bonding ,re-inforcing ect...) with one gallon of epoxy . I use the 1:1 activator for bonding and the 1:2 activator for re-inforcing. Once you add the milled fibers, it almost doubles the quantity.

I was refering to the 5 gallon pail for a container to mix it in (and I was being a little sarcastic). My concern is mixing up enough epoxy in one batch in order to bond the whole ski. Are you saying that I could get a slower activator, then mix up a batch, and spread it 'till I was out, then make another batch?
If that's the case, I would MUCH rather do that.

[freestylegeek]

The XFT order is complete and will be shipping out today!!!
It's shipping by air, so it should be here fairly quickly.

It was about the same price it would be to ship a hull here from state to state.
Total frieght bill was $380.
Granted, that's about 2X what I budgeted, but if I don't put footholds and turf on the thing, I can afford it!:haha:

[crammit442]

I was refering to the 5 gallon pail for a container to mix it in (and I was being a little sarcastic). My concern is mixing up enough epoxy in one batch in order to bond the whole ski. Are you saying that I could get a slower activator, then mix up a batch, and spread it 'till I was out, then make another batch?
If that's the case, I would MUCH rather do that.

If you have access to Plexus, it'll be vastly superior. Epoxy/milled fiber is good, but Plexus is made for this kind of application and is tough to beat.

Charles

[freestylegeek]

If you have access to Plexus, it'll be vastly superior. Epoxy/milled fiber is good, but Plexus is made for this kind of application and is tough to beat.

Charles

I'm working on the 'access to Plexus' thing...
Hopefully I can get my hands on some.

Not to mention the fact that it would be a lot easier to spread an adhesive in a gun, rather than mixing up a bunch of epoxy.

[freestylegeek]

The exhaust side has now been cut, and I've included some shots of the steering relocation hole.
That's gonna be a fun one to glass.

[Big Kahuna]

you need to make the rear cap angled like steve did, looks really good.........

[RMBC Freeride]

No way BK :27: :27: :27: , that's for my project hull (http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=7977)...

http://www.x-h2o.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=11079&d=1159330650

Besides, Geeks hull was a square so it has to have square corners! :nana: :biggrin:

[freestylegeek]

you need to make the rear cap angled...

Well now that YOU suggested it, there's NO WAY I'll do it! :biggrin:

[freestylegeek]

...Geeks hull was a square so it has to have square corners! :nana: :biggrin:

Bingo! :haha:

[waterfreak]

I was refering to the 5 gallon pail for a container to mix it in (and I was being a little sarcastic). My concern is mixing up enough epoxy in one batch in order to bond the whole ski. Are you saying that I could get a slower activator, then mix up a batch, and spread it 'till I was out, then make another batch?
If that's the case, I would MUCH rather do that.

The bond line isn't really wide so the amount used is not that much. It should take about 48 oz of epoxy and milled fibers to fill the bond line with about a 30 minute window (all depending on the activator used)

[WaveDemon]

hey steve, I bought some 3:1 hardener with my epoxy. it sets a little fast. can I use less or do I need to buy a diferent hardener?

[waterfreak]

you should not use less than reccommended. Instead, get a slower activator. I know west systems offers this with thier epoxies

Temparatures outside very often affects the cure time. I know some people that will actually put the epoxy in the refrigerator in order to lower the temperature and prolong cure time

[Freestyleriverrat]

What is the scoop on the rest of the build? What plate are you running, footholds and what color(s) scheme do you plan on doing on it?

[freestylegeek]

What is the scoop on the rest of the build? What plate are you running, footholds and what color(s) scheme do you plan on doing on it?

Well, for now the plate will be a cut stocker.
Footholds will either be WCF or Rickters.
And I have NO CLUE what I will do for a color scheme...:banghead: :dunno:

[Freestyleriverrat]

I would look into a x-metal box, that may save you some weight there. Also if you make a small tray out of fiberglass you can install a sealed battery in bulk head much like the WD designs. That will also remove some weight from the nose of the ski. Much to my dismay I found those gas tanks like the one I got from XFT for $40 :banghead: Some are critical about them but I feel it helps to balance the ski and I can feel a difference in how the ski responds compared normal tank. I can ride for almost a hour on 2.5 gal with my lamey and 48's

[freestylegeek]

I would look into a x-metal box, that may save you some weight there. Also if you make a small tray out of fiberglass you can install a sealed battery in bulk head much like the WD designs. That will also remove some weight from the nose of the ski. Much to my dismay I found those gas tanks like the one I got from XFT for $40 :banghead: Some are critical about them but I feel it helps to balance the ski and I can feel a difference in how the ski responds compared normal tank. I can ride for almost a hour on 2.5 gal with my lamey and 48's

Now here is something I REALLY struggle with.
All this time I have been trying to get farther forward - shorter pole, footholds farther forward, x-metal straight bars and short turnplate, etc...
The LAST thing I want to do is throw all that away and make my nose lighter! :scared:
I know that Maros played around with lead in the nose of his ski in order to figure out positioning with his H2O-X hood kit.

The jury is still WAY out on the 'light nose' debate.
There are a bunch of people I want to talk to about it.

[Freestyleriverrat]

I look at it more as centering the bulk of the weight. IMO the more centralized the weight the more nimble the ski, meaning the nose should come up faster and the ski should more respond quickly to your body position

[freestylegeek]

I look at it more as centering the bulk of the weight. IMO the more centralized the weight the more nimble the ski, meaning the nose should come up faster and the ski should more respond quickly to your body position

I want the tail to come up faster for rolls...

A good comparison is a waterlogged ski and a re-foamed ski.
The waterlogged ski almost always lands tail first on a roll.
The re-foamed ski is able to land flat, or slightly nose first - making a double trouble more fluid.

[Island750]

The exhaust side has now been cut, and I've included some shots of the steering relocation hole.
That's gonna be a fun one to glass.

Geek, I had a similar outlet to glass and I made a tube out of glass close to the diameter of the hole as I could get and then sliced it on a bandsaw to get the proper angle to mate to the opening, "tacked" it with 5200 and then glassed it in permanently. Just a thought.

[djkorn1]

Doesn't cutting the back of the ride plate off raise the nose up too? If you want to lower your nose maybe keep the plate stock or get a longer one...but maybe thats defeating the point of cutting the back of the hull off... IDK.. too confusing for me.

:banghead:

ps...I think you have a lock on the silver rainbow metal flake look... no one else has done it sinse.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Geek, I see that it says "Squarenoser" under you sig.......but you ski is going to be a conversion? really slapping the old school squarenose guys in the face :slap: :haha: Hence forth I dub you the "Squarenoser Poser" :Banane26: :haha: :Banane01:

[freestylegeek]

Geek, I had a similar outlet to glass and I made a tube out of glass close to the diameter of the hole as I could get and then sliced it on a bandsaw to get the proper angle to mate to the opening, "tacked" it with 5200 and then glassed it in permanently. Just a thought.

That's not a bad way to do it, I'll have to consider that.
Right now I'm planning on using a cardboard tube wrapped in wax paper, and just glassing over top of it to get the shape. Then I'll remove the tube, and glass from the pump side to finish it off.

[freestylegeek]

Doesn't cutting the back of the ride plate off raise the nose up too? If you want to lower your nose maybe keep the plate stock or get a longer one...but maybe thats defeating the point of cutting the back of the hull off... IDK.. too confusing for me.

:banghead:

ps...I think you have a lock on the silver rainbow metal flake look... no one else has done it sinse.

The rideplate length thing will be a tough one to get just right.
I'll have to do some experimenting.

I still have all of my materials from my first paint job, so the metalflake is not out of the question. :sneaky:

[freestylegeek]

Geek, I see that it says "Squarenoser" under you sig.......but you ski is going to be a conversion? really slapping the old school squarenose guys in the face :slap: :haha: Hence forth I dub you the "Squarenoser Poser" :Banane26: :haha: :Banane01:

Adjustment complete. :biggrin:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Adjustment complete. :biggrin:

:biggthumpup: :haha:

[raven1969]

freestylegeek
i moved the steering on mine right where you have yours, what i did was shape a piece of pvc pipe to fit then epoxied that in place as a mold to glass over, yours should be easier having it apart i did mine after the hull was together and i had to glue the pvc in holding it through my scupper hole. i didnt have to worry about a leak on mine becuase the pvc piece was actually inside of my huge xft scupper tubes

are you planning on using the same type of foam in this one as you did in the other one, i was thinking of doing that to mine, one of my footholds leaked on me and my ski is now leaning to the right, so i have to refoam mine :(

[raven1969]

also get one of sergios steering cables, they are priced right and actually have more threads on the pump end you will need that for moving the cable, i actually had to grind a little off one of the cooling bosses on my pump also with it in that location

[superramjet]

also get one of sergios steering cables, they are priced right and actually have more threads on the pump end you will need that for moving the cable, i actually had to grind a little off one of the cooling bosses on my pump also with it in that location
flip the center section of your pump around. That moves that huge boss out of the way of your cable. You'll have to remove the dowel pin but it will work fine.

[freestylegeek]

freestylegeek
i moved the steering on mine right where you have yours, what i did was shape a piece of pvc pipe to fit then epoxied that in place as a mold to glass over, yours should be easier having it apart i did mine after the hull was together and i had to glue the pvc in holding it through my scupper hole. i didnt have to worry about a leak on mine becuase the pvc piece was actually inside of my huge xft scupper tubes

are you planning on using the same type of foam in this one as you did in the other one, i was thinking of doing that to mine, one of my footholds leaked on me and my ski is now leaning to the right, so i have to refoam mine :(

Thanks for chiming in on this one Raven!
You've done your fair share of these conversions.:arms:

I've got a perfect size cardboard tube I was going to wrap in wax paper for a mold. Would you recomend the PVC tube instead?

I haven't decided if I will use the 'batting' style solid cell foam or not.
I think if I seal it up right, I shouldn't have to worry about the foam getting waterlogged.

[freestylegeek]

also get one of sergios steering cables, they are priced right and actually have more threads on the pump end you will need that for moving the cable, i actually had to grind a little off one of the cooling bosses on my pump also with it in that location

Where was this advice before I had my order shipped? :banghead:
With my CATS and Xmetal pole, I have a feeling I will be OK with the stock cable. BUT, if it is a problem, I now know where to find the solution.

One thing I wanted to ask you Raven is, what kind of adheasive did you use for bonding the top deck to the hull?

[freestylegeek]

flip the center section of your pump around. That moves that huge boss out of the way of your cable. You'll have to remove the dowel pin but it will work fine.

I've thought about that Tom, but I'm concerned about spinning the stator section. I only use 3 of the 4 long bolts that hold the pump assembly together, so without a dowel pin, there is nothing other than those bolts preventing the stator from spinning.
Now I realize my motor isn't making a TON of power, but there has got to be a reason the factory designed the pump that way, right?

[Mark44]

Thanks for chiming in on this one Raven!
You've done your fair share of these conversions.:arms:

I've got a perfect size cardboard tube I was going to wrap in wax paper for a mold. Would you recomend the PVC tube instead?

I haven't decided if I will use the 'batting' style solid cell foam or not.
I think if I seal it up right, I shouldn't have to worry about the foam getting waterlogged.

I thought the same thing but the water still gets in. Do yourself a favor and install drains and voids. They work great!:biggthumpup:

Mark44

[raven1969]

GEEK

i think your idea will work well also since you access to both sides, i used the pvc simply becuase i needed somthing rigid that i could slip in through the scupper tube since my hull was already together.
i actually flipped my pump and my mounting position is so much higher and has to go down to the streering nozzle so i just had to take a little off.
you might be able to get away with the stock cable, if not xft;s has around 1/2 in more thread for you and its less than half what a stocker cost .
i ended up with one little leak around the back of my right foothold, you can hold it under the water and actually see little bubbles come from the hole.
i am going to be replacing the footholds though they are just too big (take up too much tray room) they look great and they work well, but i like being able to move around the tray easier, so i will go with some that are flush to the sides. and see just how much water i did get in there. and i want to put mine a little further forward like you had yours !!
one trick on your side exhaust once you seal it in dont cut the outlet hole through the hull and you can then stand the ski up and fill it with water to check for leaks, i did this with my scupper tubes as well, then i went back cut the holes.
one thing i will tell you is keep your front exhaust with the side rear, i find that when you are going slow it tends to put back pressure on the exhaust because you rear is under the water more and the water is always covering the side, where as when its in the back you have that area behind the ski with no water to put back pressure on it, something to think about, if i go through a no wake zone you really have to clear it good afterwards , and this wasnt necessary when i had the rear and front side, so i just ordered a x metal box so i can add the front exhaust back on.
i used an epoxy resin that came pre thickened with glass fibers in it, it was supposedly used for the aerpospace industry they would only keep it on the shelf for 6 months and get rid of it, i bought it from a seller on ebay who would then pick it up and sell it for half price, it was a 2:1 mix and would take around 10 hours to cure at 70 degrees, i dont see him selling it anymore, i bought 2 gallons of resin and 1 gallon hardner for 100 dollars and did 2 hulls already and i have about 1/2 enough to do another so i will be curious as to what you will be using, becuase i cant get this stuff anymore, like steve said though you dont need as much as you think.
dont forget to make sure you glass over the pump and ride plate bosses so you dont get any leaks there, i ran the bolts in them then put a small round piece of duct tape just big enough to cover the bolts and then glassed over those. after ssanding the brass inserts real good with 36 grit.

sounds like an awesome build, cant wait to see the topdeck.
i will starting on my 8mil stroker lamey real soon, i have been playing with different parts on my 701 and i am ready for the lamey, i have the cylinder already bored and ported and the crankcase is ported and ready to go, i just need head, pistons, intake and carbs.

anything else i can help with please let me know

[freestylegeek]

I started glassing in the steering cable relocation area.
I used a cardboard tube wrapped in wax paper for the mold.
I layed three sheets of 12 oz twill weave bi-axial cloth on top of it.
After this area sets-up, I will lay the front section.
Then I will lay two layers on the pump cavity side.

Man, I wish it wasn't getting cold up here.... :banghead:

[SuperJETT]

Very nice job, that looks professional so far.

[freestylegeek]

...so far.

meaning you think it will go downhill quickly from here? LOL! :haha:

[SuperJETT]

Well, you haven't started on the mod where you're going to mount the handlepole directly onto the bow eye to get even further forward, so we'll see how that goes.

[waxhead]

why do you need to change the steering cable location ??

[freestylegeek]

Well, you haven't started on the mod where you're going to mount the handlepole directly onto the bow eye to get even further forward, so we'll see how that goes.

I was probably going to mount the handlebars straight through the pivot bracket - with no handlepole.
I'm not sure if that will be far enough though... :haha:

[freestylegeek]

why do you need to change the steering cable location ??

It helps if you can mount the steering attachment stud pointing up instead of down. That's the way it's mounted on the waveraider I think. That way, you eliminate the nozzle turning to the right when the trim is pulled. Granted, that mainly happens when the cable hits the cooling line boss on the pump stator.

Also, by moving the steering cable from parallel with the pump to slightly off axis, it is less stressful on the barrel end at full throw.

[SuperJETT]

Also, by moving the steering cable from parallel with the pump to slightly off axis, it is less stressful on the barrel end at full throw.

Only for you weirdos that roll to the left.

[waxhead]

so if i roll to the right its not an issue

[freestylegeek]

so if i roll to the right its not an issue

Not really.
It's main purpose is to make the trim work the way it does on a waveraider.
It's basically the same location as it is on that boat then.

[SuperJETT]

If you roll to the right, it will actually be a little more stress on the end because you'll have a worse angle at full throw to the right.

[freestylegeek]

If you roll to the right, it will actually be a little more stress on the end because you'll have a worse angle at full throw to the right.

Yup.
But most steering nozzles will bottom out to the right before reaching the full range of the barrel.

[raven1969]

whens that top deck getting there??

[freestylegeek]

whens that top deck getting there??

Well, it's been at the airport for two days now - just waiting for it to clear customs.
I believe it will be delivered today (I HOPE!!).
The sad part is, our warehouse property line is next to the airport property line.
The thing is about 3000 feet away, and I can't get it!! LOL!
If I get it today, there will be pictures posted ASAP!

[Marshj]

Well, it's been at the airport for two days now - just waiting for it to clear customs.
I believe it will be delivered today (I HOPE!!).
The sad part is, our warehouse property line is next to the airport property line.
The thing is about 3000 feet away, and I can't get it!! LOL!
If I get it today, there will be pictures posted ASAP!

Yes!!! Very excited for your new build geek!

[freestylegeek]

Yes!!! Very excited for your new build geek!

ME TOO!!

Still no delivery today!
UGH!!!
The release forms were faxed to United Cargo Yesterday at 11:00 am.
I REALLY want my goodies!!:banghead:

[freestylegeek]

:biggrin: :bigeyes: :hail: :arms: :Banane01: :cheer: It's here! It's here! It's here! It's here!
Holy cow, I can't believe it, it's here!
Finally it's here!!
WOOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!:arms: :Banane01: :cheer: :arms: :Banane01:

[FL-cracker]

Damn, Im jelous.... cant wait to see the outcome of your build Geek.

[kskip]

Well Matt,you probably way geeked over this, Need to tell the the main squeeze to "Brace yourself" tonite.
kskip

[h2odesperado]

dayum thas purty

[Mark44]

Sweet, How much?

Mark44

[yamaslut]

I have a squarenose hull... :sneaky: :sneaky: :sneaky: :sneaky: :sneaky: :sneaky:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Nice!!! :arms: Let the work begin :woot:

[djkorn1]

Rip it..:hail:

[freestylegeek]

OK, now for some shots of the good stuff.

The inside of the deck is great.
Sergio has the handlepole bracket area spanning from side to side.
He filled the corners with foam, then laid a few sheets on top all the way across. He's got divinycell foam running up the center of the nose. He also has it running almost the entire length of the deck - and up into the gunwales. The hood seal lip is thick, and runs all the way to the sides. The sides and nose are extremely rigid compared to OEM.
I didn't get a chance to put it on a scale, but it feels a little heavier than a gallon of milk. :smile:

The hood is brilliant.
The seal lip fits the lip of the top deck perfectly.
But, better than that is the inner lip that hangs down into the engine compartment. This hood is going nowhere! :arms:
Also, Sergio glasses in threaded inserts for the hod pins, so I don't have to fiddle with finding a set of nut plates, or nut and washers.
The air intakes in the back are HUGE!
And the hoses are 'threaded' into position, then sealed.
I think you can adjust their depth to help block even more water.

Both the top deck and hood carry a serial number on them - making me wonder if I could use that for the HIN?
I'll have to check with the Secretary of State.

Now if it will warm up a bit, maybe I can get moving on this thing!

[yamaslut]

OK, now for some shots of the good stuff.

The inside of the deck is great.
Sergio has the handlepole bracket area spanning from side to side.
He filled the corners with foam, then laid a few sheets on top all the way across. He's got divinycell foam running up the center of the nose. He also has it running almost the entire length of the deck - and up into the gunwales. The hood seal lip is thick, and runs all the way to the sides. The sides and nose are extremely rigid compared to OEM.
I didn't get a chance to put it on a scale, but it feels a little heavier than a gallon of milk. :smile:

The hood is brilliant.
The seal lip fits the lip of the top deck perfectly.
But, better than that is the inner lip that hangs down into the engine compartment. This hood is going nowhere! :arms:
Also, Sergio glasses in threaded inserts for the hod pins, so I don't have to fiddle with finding a set of nut plates, or nut and washers.
The air intakes in the back are HUGE!
And the hoses are 'threaded' into position, then sealed.
I think you can adjust their depth to help block even more water.

Both the top deck and hood carry a serial number on them - making me wonder if I could use that for the HIN?
I'll have to check with the Secretary of State.

Now if it will warm up a bit, maybe I can get moving on this thing!


very nice setup!!!!

:hail: XFT

very impressed w/ the hood..... What does one of those run???? If you don't mind me asking.. :biggrin:

[freestylegeek]

very nice setup!!!!

:hail: XFT

very impressed w/ the hood..... What does one of those run???? If you don't mind me asking.. :biggrin:

I would double check with Sergio, but the 13lb glass hood and nosepiece kit is $900. I'm not sure what shipping would be, but he usually ships by air.
The shipping on my whole order was $380.00 - Remember though, that was for an 8 foot long box.

[yamaslut]

I would double check with Sergio, but the 13lb glass hood and nosepiece kit is $900. I'm not sure what shipping would be, but he usually ships by air.
The shipping on my whole order was $380.00 - Remember though, that was for an 8 foot long box.

very nice and a good price too

[Marshj]

I would double check with Sergio, but the 13lb glass hood and nosepiece kit is $900. I'm not sure what shipping would be, but he usually ships by air.
The shipping on my whole order was $380.00 - Remember though, that was for an 8 foot long box.

:cheer: YES!!! YES!!! YES!!!!:cheer: Go geek! Let me Hear an X- Let me get an F- Gimme a T!!! Gooooooo XFT:cheer:

Hi Slut:wave: - Ive run the X7 hood (same as geeks) all year. My stock hoodlatch doesnt even work anymore, ive rode waves, double ups etc with only one hoodstrap since july! This thing is made to stay on!

Pricing is 900 for hood and Carbon nosepiece (painted any solid color you want) and the Shipping ground was 74 dollars to MI. :woot:

[XFT LOU]

Sweet, How much?

Mark44

The equivalent of Dallas's first semester (no parking or books)!!!

[freestylegeek]

:cheer: YES!!! YES!!! YES!!!!:cheer: Go geek! Let me Hear an X- Let me get an F- Gimme a T!!! Gooooooo XFT:cheer:...

X - F - T Wooooooo!!:arms: :dance:

The quality and innovation are incredible on this thing.
I am an XFT convert now.

If only he made chinpads for X-metal handlepoles...:cool2:

[Marshj]

X - F - T Wooooooo!!:arms: :dance:

The quality and innovation are incredible on this thing.
I am an XFT convert now.

If only he made chinpads for X-metal handlepoles...:cool2:

Speaking of that, youre gonna have to let me know if the X-metal pole fits under sergios nosepiece. Its gonna be a tight fit, I couldnt run my Xft nosepiece with two different poles (non Xmetal).

And Call Chuck at CgRacing, he'll get you a nice carbon chinpad at a fraction of others costs:biggthumpup:

[freestylegeek]

More progress this weekend.
I've got the nose cut off, and the bulkhead trimmed down.
I also have the inside of the steering relocation area glassed in, and the stock exhaust hole filled in.

With the temperatures getting cooler, I might have to move things into the basement pretty soon.:banghead:

I hope to get the tail pieces glassed in this week, and get started on glassing in the nose lip.

[waxhead]

Looking excellent

[Mile9c1]

For my X-Jet I just had to apply for a home built watercraft Title. It was easy, you can get all the forms at the secretary of State's office. They'll even tell you to make the HIN tags yourself :smile:

[freestylegeek]

For my X-Jet I just had to apply for a home built watercraft Title. It was easy, you can get all the forms at the secretary of State's office. They'll even tell you to make the HIN tags yourself :smile:

I already have the forms.:biggrin:
It looks like it will be a piece of cake.
We have tag making equipment at work, so It will be no trouble to make an HIN tag.

[yamaslut]

I ********ing love this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer:

[freestylegeek]

Lets hope I can keep this momentum going...:biggrin:

Tonight I glassed in the insides of the back of the hull.
I paid minimal attention to looks, and just tried to get good contact with all the cloth. I put 4 layers on the chine edge, and three on the verticals.
Each layer overlaps the other layer on a perpendicular edge.

I'm also going to have a bit of fun filling in the gap between the bulkhead and the top deck. Things are very different between the square's and the round's in that area.

[freestylegeek]

Bulkhead shots.

[djkorn1]

Lookin killer Geek!!! :biggrin:

[noodle]

Looks like you've done an awsome job of shortening the hull, you've made it look easy, although I'm sure it wasn't. Great work!!

[yamaslut]

Bulkhead shots.


That part is not gonna be fun...:bigeyes:

[Mark44]

Bulkhead shots.

That looks great Geek. Just needs glass and resin not a big deal at all.

MORE PICS........this is a great thread. You have me thinking.:biggthumpup:

Mark44

[freestylegeek]

That part is not gonna be fun...:bigeyes:

I'm not as scared about it as I used to be.
Once I get the top deck glued on, I'll have adheasive up the outter sides of the bulkhead, bonding it to the deck. The gaps on the inside will fill in quickly.
I'll just lay a 5" wide strip of cloth over the gap on the engine side and let it set. After that, I can bulk it up with smaller and smaller strips untill I have the thickness I'm happy with. I think it will have more than enough adheasion, and support.

[freestylegeek]

That looks great Geek. Just needs glass and resin not a big deal at all.

MORE PICS........this is a great thread. You have me thinking.:biggthumpup:

Mark44

There will be pics galore. One of these days, I'll post them all into a gallery for easy browsing.:biggthumpup:

[freestylegeek]

Looks like you've done an awsome job of shortening the hull, you've made it look easy, although I'm sure it wasn't. Great work!!


Thanks man!

The entire job is a HUGE undertaking; however, I've found that breaking it into smaller sections makes seem very managable.

For instance, the steering relocation area took 4 seperate 'sessions' to complete. One to cut the hole, one to glass in around the cardboard tube, one to glass over the front of the tube, and one to glass the pump side.
It just takes a little time.

I finally feel like I'm moving forward now that I have the back pieces firmly affixed!:smile:
Next will be glassing them from the outside.

[freestylegeek]

...i like the way sergio reinforced the area in front of the hood lip.. that looks great.

nice work geek, keep the pics/updates coming!

X F T !!!!!!!! looking good !!!!!!!

Yeah, Sergio is smart like that. :arms:
The more time I spend looking this thing over, the more impressed I am with it!

[Marshj]

That part is not gonna be fun...:bigeyes:



I'm also going to have a bit of fun filling in the gap between the bulkhead and the top deck. Things are very different between the square's and the round's in that area.

I think that it wont be fun cause someone got a little too excited with the sawzaw:bigeyes: geek.....

[Metal4130]

This looks GREAT. Talk about making a 12 year old ski look modern! It looks like your doing everything right and taking your time, to me that's all that matters. I have just a few questions though. Since you are still using an OEM bottom, will you be reinforcing the inside of the engine compartment? Lastly it seems like you are really happy with the quality of the XFT products. In the past I heard a few negatives on his earlier hulls. Do you think what you recieved is worth what you paid for it as far as quality goes? Keep it up! :biggrin:

[freestylegeek]

I think that it wont be fun cause someone got a little too excited with the sawzaw:bigeyes: geek.....

ooops. :rolleyes:
But, I don't think I could have reduced the gap much more.
Maybe the bottom could have been flush, but the verticals would definitly NOT have been.
The two top decks are very different in that area.

Sawzalls are fun!:arms:

[freestylegeek]

This looks GREAT. Talk about making a 12 year old ski look modern! It looks like your doing everything right and taking your time, to me that's all that matters. I have just a few questions though. Since you are still using an OEM bottom, will you be reinforcing the inside of the engine compartment? Lastly it seems like you are really happy with the quality of the XFT products. In the past I heard a few negatives on his earlier hulls. Do you think what you recieved is worth what you paid for it as far as quality goes? Keep it up! :biggrin:

Thanks man!
I'm having a lot of fun doing it too.

I will be reinforceing the inside of the engine compartment with a 6" wide strip of uni-directional glass right over the bond line, and then an 18" wide sheet of 9 oz bi-axial twill weave to go from hull to hood seal lip.

I was blown away with the quality of the XFT stuff.
The price, lead time, and delivery were very nice.
Most importantly, Sergio customizes any part for you as part of the deal.

[superrob750]

i want to see this.

[freestylegeek]

i want to see this.


C'mon over!
Oh, and bring some latex gloves to help me lay some fiberglass. :arms:

[romack991]

I think that it wont be fun cause someone got a little too excited with the sawzaw:bigeyes: geek.....

ooops. :rolleyes:
But, I don't think I could have reduced the gap much more.
Maybe the bottom could have been flush, but the verticals would definitly NOT have been.
The two top decks are very different in that area.

Sawzalls are fun!:arms:

I think Marsh has got ya on that one geek...

[freestylegeek]

I think Marsh has got ya on that one geek...

Dang!
Looks like he got it figured out!
Nice job there Marsh!

The real reason I cut so much of the bulkhead away was because SMC is heavier than the glass I'll use to fill in the gap.
Yeah, yeah that's the ticket!

:bs2:

[douglee25]

Geek, do you think filling in your gap with epoxy mixed with some filler before you lay some fiberglass on it would be a good idea? Maybe some foam and then fiberglass?

Doug

[freestylegeek]

Geek, do you think filling in your gap with epoxy mixed with some filler before you lay some fiberglass on it would be a good idea? Maybe some foam and then fiberglass?

Doug

Nope.
I'll lay in a 5" wide strip of unidirectional glass all the way around the gap (with the strengthening strands perpendicular to it).
I'll use my finger to depress it into a little valley. Then I'll build up the 'valley' with 4" wide, 3", 2.5", 2", 1.5" and 1" wide strips.
I think the result will be *slightly* lighter.
I have no worries about how strong it will be.

[douglee25]

I suppose that should work as well. Lookin' good man.

Doug

[live to stand]

great job Matt
let me know how much want for it when you finish it

[freestylegeek]

great job Matt
let me know how much want for it when you finish it

[Dr. Evil voice] one million dollars!
:biggrin:

[Marshj]

Dang!
Looks like he got it figured out!
Nice job there Marsh!

The real reason I cut so much of the bulkhead away was because SMC is heavier than the glass I'll use to fill in the gap.
Yeah, yeah that's the ticket!

:bs2:

:biggrin:

But you see..I aborted my conversion, you my friends are faithfull:frown: :banghead:

[freestylegeek]

:biggrin:

But you see..I aborted my conversion, you my friends are faithfull:frown: :banghead:

We've got a LOOOOONG winter ahead...what say you get back to that conversion?:woot:

[romack991]

We've got a LOOOOONG winter ahead...what say you get back to that conversion?:woot:

it's in my living room :wiggle:

[freestylegeek]

it's in my living room :wiggle:

Ah ha!:headbang:

[freestylegeek]

I've got the 'big hole' filled in where the back of the ski used to be now.
I used wood blocks with wax paper to create a hard surface to lay the glass on the inside. After that set up, I flipped it over and glassed the outside. 4 layers on the inside and 5 layers on the outside. It's nice and strong. I'll be spreading some filler on the outside, and smoothing it before painting.

The bottom is finally complete again!:arms:

[freestylegeek]

outside.

[FL-cracker]

Nice progress. Do you plan on leaving all of the lip?

[Metal4130]

Bitchin!

[goodq]

Who's square is that in the picture?

[Marshj]

This is definitely my favorite thread on the X right now! So excited to see this thing in action next spring:Banane01: Now I wish i wouldnt have aborted my conversion :frown:

Couple questions geek. Are you going to alter the rear corners of the hull at all? ie get rid of the sharp corner to make rolls easier (like you pointed out on lenzi's 05 boat).

And can you explain this Di-venycell foam to the rest of us? whats the benefits/hows it work?
Thanks buddiiee:woot: keep it up

[freestylegeek]

Nice progress. Do you plan on leaving all of the lip?

Nope, it's all coming off.
I don't think I will cut it until I have the top on though.

[superramjet]

I've thought about that Tom, but I'm concerned about spinning the stator section. I only use 3 of the 4 long bolts that hold the pump assembly together, so without a dowel pin, there is nothing other than those bolts preventing the stator from spinning.
Now I realize my motor isn't making a TON of power, but there has got to be a reason the factory designed the pump that way, right? i only recommened it because i've run them that way for several years in 2 of my skis without issues, you can alway drill and new dowel pin if it's a concern.

Nice looking work, the relocated steering cable is the best. It looks like xft makes some nice stuff. Get posting pics

[freestylegeek]

This is definitely my favorite thread on the X right now! So excited to see this thing in action next spring:Banane01: Now I wish i wouldnt have aborted my conversion :frown:

Couple questions geek. Are you going to alter the rear corners of the hull at all? ie get rid of the sharp corner to make rolls easier (like you pointed out on lenzi's 05 boat).

And can you explain this Di-venycell foam to the rest of us? whats the benefits/hows it work?
Thanks buddiiee:woot: keep it up

As far as the rear corners go, this is pretty much all I'm going to do to it.
Sergio said it helps for the backflip a little if you scallop the outside chines, but not as much as just shortening the hull. It also makes the ski a little less stable. Most importantly, it's more work - and I don't want to do more work. :cool2:

Divinycell foam is basically a closed cell foam that adds a ton of structure when sandwiched between layers of glass and resin. I am blown away by how light it is, and how rigid. It's kinda a simplified honeycomb structure - except the walls aren't totally perpendicular to the outer surface. The nice part about it is that you don't have to use pre-preg in order to sandwich it. It naturally resists epoxy due to the cells being closed.

[freestylegeek]

Who's square is that in the picture?

Which picture are you referring to?
My brother-in-law has a red and black square...

[freestylegeek]

i only recommened it because i've run them that way for several years in 2 of my skis without issues, you can alway drill and new dowel pin if it's a concern.

Nice looking work, the relocated steering cable is the best. It looks like xft makes some nice stuff. Get posting pics

Thanks Tom!
That means a lot coming from you.

We'll see how things line up in the pump area, and if it seems beneficial, I'll probably spin the stator section.

[FL-cracker]

Seems as if you have realy done your homework. This hull should perform beautifully. Cant wait to hear your conclusion on how well the ski works once complete. Are you gona weight the hull for us ;)

[freestylegeek]

Seems as if you have realy done your homework. This hull should perform beautifully. Cant wait to hear your conclusion on how well the ski works once complete. Are you gona weight the hull for us ;)

Absolutely!

Here's how everything stands right now:
OEM bottom - 56 lbs
XFT top deck - 13 lbs
3 yds of 9 oz biaxial twill weave - 2.25 lbs (I won't use all of it)
1 yd of 7 oz unidirectional glass - 0.5 lbs (I won't use all of it)
1-1 ration of epoxy to glass wieght (actually, lets assume 2-1 for error) - 5.5lbs
3 cu-ft of 3lb foam - 9 lbs

Total assembled weight: 86.25 lbs.

We all KNOW it will not weigh this much because I will not be using all of the materials listed above.
Even if it did though, I'd be ok with it because the old hull was 120 lbs.

[yamaslut]

Absolutely!

Here's how everything stands right now:
OEM bottom - 56 lbs
XFT top deck - 13 lbs
3 yds of 9 oz biaxial twill weave - 2.25 lbs (I won't use all of it)
1 yd of 7 oz unidirectional glass - 0.5 lbs (I won't use all of it)
1-1 ration of epoxy to glass wieght (actually, lets assume 2-1 for error) - 5.5lbs
3 cu-ft of 3lb foam - 9 lbs

Total assembled weight: 86.25 lbs.

We all KNOW it will not weigh this much because I will not be using all of the materials listed above.
Even if it did though, I'd be ok with it because the old hull was 120 lbs.


your geekness is next to none... I love how you break it down brotha...

[FL-cracker]

Light weight BF hull on a budget!:biggthumpup:

[Freestyleriverrat]

does the top deck weight include the weight of the hood? Small gas tank and battery will help as well. You will also save some weight running just a front exhaust.

[Matt_E]

I doubt the hood weight is included?

Would be awesome if it's the case.

[FL-cracker]

After adding up his calculations, that does not include the hood.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Or exhaust tube, scuppers ect...........I think it will be just under 100lbs turfed.

[yamaslut]

the hood is another 13lbs... I think he said 26 combined

[freestylegeek]

Light weight BF hull on a budget!:biggthumpup:

How 'bout we call it a 'medium weight' BF hull. :biggthumpup:

[freestylegeek]

does the top deck weight include the weight of the hood? Small gas tank and battery will help as well. You will also save some weight running just a front exhaust.

No, it does not include the weight of the hood.
I am strickly doing a bare hull vs bare hull comparison.
I realize I will loose a little weight in the hood region since my old hood was 17 lbs, and the new one is 12 lbs.

[freestylegeek]

Or exhaust tube, scuppers ect...........I think it will be just under 100lbs turfed.

The exhaust tube will be made out of the cloth that was already listed, so that's included.
The scupper tube was not included and I plan on weighing that tonight.

[djkorn1]

holy geekness!!!
:woot:

[CoreyLKN]

Have u decieded what the color scheme is gonna be yet?:cool2:

[Mile9c1]

Don't forget to weigh in the paint and footholds.

[SuperJETT]

I think he's even going to run a stock Yamaha head because the spark plugs are lighter.

[2lick]

I think he's even going to run a stock Yamaha head because the spark plugs are lighter.

:haha: :haha: :haha: LMAO

[freestylegeek]

Have u decieded what the color scheme is gonna be yet?:cool2:

I have NO IDEA yet!
That will be the hardest part of the whole build! :banghead: :banghead:

[AIRICCC]

im a little late to chime in... geek, are you going to use sergio's firewall scuppers that dump into the pump cavity or just the tube style? are you doing the rear side exhaust exit as well? lookin good!

[AIRICCC]

another thing... when I was in the build process I replaced that old steering cable thru-hull housing with a nice piece of anodized aluminum... I used one of those tubes that they put inside RC airplane wings... my intention was for easy installation and removal of the steering cable as well as it not having to flex as it goes through that tube, plus the seal on the oem one did not look sufficient... just an idea... i think it was either 7/8" or 5/8", I can get you in touch with the place that had it, it was only $12 i think...

[freestylegeek]

im a little late to chime in... geek, are you going to use sergio's firewall scuppers that dump into the pump cavity or just the tube style? are you doing the rear side exhaust exit as well? lookin good!

Never too late my friend!
I will be using a standard 2" scupper tube, and an X-metal scupper.
I will also be doing the side rear exhaust (with the XFT outlet).
I'll have more pictures of it soon (maybe tonight).

[freestylegeek]

another thing... when I was in the build process I replaced that old steering cable thru-hull housing with a nice piece of anodized aluminum... I used one of those tubes that they put inside RC airplane wings... my intention was for easy installation and removal of the steering cable as well as it not having to flex as it goes through that tube, plus the seal on the oem one did not look sufficient... just an idea... i think it was either 7/8" or 5/8", I can get you in touch with the place that had it, it was only $12 i think...


I'm not too worried about the steering cable tube.
The OEM on the '94 is a heat formed piece of PVC so it's a little more rigid that the 'sealtite' that is used on the '96+.

Good idea though!

[freestylegeek]

The scupper tube is installed and sealed (3M 5200) to the bulkhead.
Now before everyone gets all huffy about me using schedule 80 PVC, it's really not adding that much weight. The whole assembly weighs 1.5 lbs, and it's displacing almost 1 cubic foot of foam (which weighs 3 lbs). So...I'm saving 1.5 lbs! yeah that's it!:biggrin:

Besides, I had the PVC in the garage, and I spent a little over $1 on the fittings.

:EDIT:
I didn't have any coffee before those numbers were posted.
I'm actually only saving about 1/4 lb of foam.
So, the weight addition of the scupper is 1-1/4 lbs. :-)

[Mark44]

Very nice I like how you but that in the center of the ski.

Looks good Geek keep it up!

Mark44 Brap!

[FL-cracker]

Like everything else you have done......looks great!

[Freestyleriverrat]

getting closer and closer :Banane01: Have any pics of the top deck sitting on the bottom deck?

[SuperJETT]

Very nice I like how you but that in the center of the ski.

Looks good Geek keep it up!

Mark44 Brap!

yeah, that's a great idea! I should do that. :sneaky:

[freestylegeek]

getting closer and closer :Banane01: Have any pics of the top deck sitting on the bottom beck?

I might...
I'm just not up to that point yet. :sneaky:

If I can get the exhaust in later this week, there is a good chance I will be bonding the top deck THIS WEEKEND!!!:Banane01:

[SuperJETT]

But how much did the scupper tube weigh?!?!?!?!

[Freestyleriverrat]

But how much did the scupper tube weigh?!?!?!?!



:EDIT:
I didn't have any coffee before those numbers were posted.
I'm actually only saving about 1/4 lb of foam.
So, the weight addition of the scupper is 1-1/4 lbs. :-)

Come on Darin, that was so 1 page ago :haha: :Banane09:

[freestylegeek]

But how much did the scupper tube weigh?!?!?!?!

...The whole assembly weighs 1.5 lbs...

That much.

[Freestyleriverrat]

That much.

:bigeyes: Why don't you just tie a lead weight to you leg :haha: JK

[The other Alex]

I love it :arms:
This is like porn to me. I like following extensive builds.

[waxhead]

I just like porn

[waterfreak]

I just like porn

Ditto!:sneaky: :Banane01:

[goodq]

:hmmm: I thought you were going to put the scuppys in the pump cavity, I guess you decided against it.

[freestylegeek]

:hmmm: I thought you were going to put the scuppys in the pump cavity, I guess you decided against it.

I didn't know what scupper valve I was going to use.
So, after I decided on an X-Metal, I also decided where I was gonna run the tube out. :cheer:

[freestylegeek]

I got the exhaust in this weekend.
More good ol' HEAVY PVC. :smile:
It really added about 1 lb, so I'm not too concerned.
I had to modify the XFT exhaust cover, but it will still work fine.
In retrospect, if I had the $200 to spend, I would have bought the whole side exhaust kit from Sergio...:frown:

I also added three layers of 7 oz unidirectional glass behind the exhaust (since that's my primary roll landing side).
I drilled the steering nut hole, and got that to fit.
I will be 3M'ing the cooling and trim tubes tonight.

[GDFL]

Looking good. That tray area looks like Chick's wet dream.

[SuperJETT]

Looks good. Royal Flush would be proud!

[SuperJETT]

Looks good. Royal Flush would be proud!

Looking good. That tray area looks like Chick's wet dream.

lol, I was oggling the pics, finally posted, and you posted almost the exact comment.

[PAIR-A-DICE]

Looking good. That tray area looks like Chick's wet dream.

Looks good. Royal Flush would be proud!

You guys are tooooooooo..... funny...........:biggrin: :clown:

If you only knew how long it's been since I glued some PVC together, you'd flip! :27:

Nice use of code-required purple primer, Geek!!!:biggthumpup:

[yamaslut]

ok... I'll be the dumb one... Why side exhaust????????

:cool2:

[freestylegeek]

ok... I'll be the dumb one... Why side exhaust????????

:cool2:

It's a flatwater thing - you wouldn't understand. LOL!:biggrin:

I figured while I'm in there, I might as well do something custom with the exhaust. I liked the way Sergio's boats come with the side rear exhaust, so I went with it. The main purpose is to be quieter that split exhaust (front/rear), as well as leaving room for an additional scupper on the exhaust side. I am not putting a second scupper in there, so my main reason is for tailstand convineince. Even thogh, I pretty much don't do those anymore.

[freestylegeek]

You guys are tooooooooo..... funny...........:biggrin: :clown:

If you only knew how long it's been since I glued some PVC together, you'd flip! :27:

Nice use of code-required purple primer, Geek!!!:biggthumpup:

It was leftover from my sprinkling...
But, since it IS code, maybe I can have it inspected before I glue on the top deck? LOL!:biggthumpup:

[yamaslut]

It's a flatwater thing - you wouldn't understand. LOL!:biggrin:

I figured while I'm in there, I might as well do something custom with the exhaust. I liked the way Sergio's boats come with the side rear exhaust, so I went with it. The main purpose is to be quieter that split exhaust (front/rear), as well as leaving room for an additional scupper on the exhaust side. I am not putting a second scupper in there, so my main reason is for tailstand convineince. Even thogh, I pretty much don't do those anymore.

ok... what was the reason again??
:Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01:

[freestylegeek]

ok... what was the reason again??
:Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01:

OK, that's it.
I'm TOTALLY backfliping overtop of you in Daytona!:aargh4:

[waterfreak]

Are you sure using PVC as an exhaust tube ?? Those exhaust gas can get pretty hot sometimes . I once used a PVC t-fitting for my front exhaust and after a few months it started to warp and lose exhaust gases at the connections

PAt at x-metal has made me some very sweet thin wall aluminium side exhaust tube and exit for me at a very reasonable price. The same that can be found on Pete's and Pat's boats.

The last thing you want is to open up the back end again if you encounter problems witht the exhaust

[Big Kahuna]

hey Matt, steve may have a point about the tubing.........

[Matt_E]

I believe this has been discussed before. Back then, the only person claiming that exhaust gases would melt PVC tubing was Travis/WAD, so it was considered BS.

[Big Kahuna]

probably would not, but I would not like to find out!!!!!

[PAIR-A-DICE]

probably would not, but I would not like to find out!!!!!

Probably not recommended...:smile:

http://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/Industrial_Tech_Manual/Industrial_Tech_Manual/html/Industrial_Tech_Manual.html

[cambo au]

love this thread geek i am in the process of doing a watercraft factory square conversion with a mate and am at about the same point as you what are you useing to glue the tubes in with and what do you use to bond the hull with? steve what do you use?

[yamaslut]

Are you sure using PVC as an exhaust tube ?? Those exhaust gas can get pretty hot sometimes . I once used a PVC t-fitting for my front exhaust and after a few months it started to warp and lose exhaust gases at the connections

PAt at x-metal has made me some very sweet thin wall aluminium side exhaust tube and exit for me at a very reasonable price. The same that can be found on Pete's and Pat's boats.

The last thing you want is to open up the back end again if you encounter problems witht the exhaust

I melted one too, but it was much further up in the system (dual exhaust T). being that the pvc is at the end of the exhaust system in his setup, the exhaust gases won't be that hot there... and he is using thick PVC.

I work at a manufaturing facility and we fit and weld exhaust all day... That would be a stronger, more expensive, and heavier option... Not sure if it would be worth it...

[freestylegeek]

Are you sure using PVC as an exhaust tube ?? Those exhaust gas can get pretty hot sometimes . I once used a PVC t-fitting for my front exhaust and after a few months it started to warp and lose exhaust gases at the connections

PAt at x-metal has made me some very sweet thin wall aluminium side exhaust tube and exit for me at a very reasonable price. The same that can be found on Pete's and Pat's boats.

The last thing you want is to open up the back end again if you encounter problems witht the exhaust

Excellent point Steve!
I was a litte concerned about that as well, but I have been running a PVC 90º fitting right off of the waterbox for over 3 years now, and it isn't showing the slightest sign of warping. Which makes me wonder if I'm runing my exhaust too wet???
I think if I had a tad more time, I'd have Pat make something up for me...BUT, January 13-14 is coming up FAST!!!!!! :cool2:

[Big Kahuna]

Hey Steve, hook a brother up here!!!!!!!!!!!!

[freestylegeek]

Hey Steve, hook a brother up here!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've already got a call in to Pat...
I REALLY don't want to throw away 4 evenings worth of work, but if it's the right thing to do, I'll have to.

[freestylegeek]

love this thread geek i am in the process of doing a watercraft factory square conversion with a mate and am at about the same point as you what are you useing to glue the tubes in with and what do you use to bond the hull with? steve what do you use?

All tubes will be sealed with 3M 5200 - nothing less!:arms:

[DR3]

sweet man, i love the build. making me jealous!!!
mine will be done soon, im just on a budget :bs2: lol trying to keep it under a couple grand and im only at $900 :sneaky:
im also waiting on some parts and time to spend on it i happend to get real busy.
love your ideas and process of breaking it down it looks great!

[freestylegeek]

sweet man, i love the build. making me jealous!!!
mine will be done soon, im just on a budget :bs2: lol trying to keep it under a couple grand and im only at $900 :sneaky:
im also waiting on some parts and time to spend on it i happend to get real busy.
love your ideas and process of breaking it down it looks great!

I had a TON of motivation from the other folks that have done this (like Raven1969), and I'm just trying to pass it on! :arms:

[freestylegeek]

Got the water lines, trim tube, driveshaft tube, and exhaust tube sealed to the bulkhead. After I seal up the steering line tube, it's TOP DECK TIME!!!!

[Boris]

What about the ribs in the front ?
You living them in ?

[waterfreak]

Hey Steve, hook a brother up here!!!!!!!!!!!!

The key here is to do it right the first time:biggthumpup: As a matter of fact, I need to order some more exhaust tubes from Pat. They are really sweet and I will bet that it is alot lighter than all of that pvc you got there in the exhaust.

I use 2 part epoxy glue to seal all of the fittings and exhaust ends. I'm sure 5200 is just as good.

Cambo, let's see some pics of your build:biggthumpup: I'm sure that it will turn out real sweet too

Btw, here's a little hint about how I make some reall nice scupper tunnels. Take a 4" piece of pvc and then lay about 2 layers of 1/ 1/2 mat on top . Once cured, it is easily removed (not much sticks to pvc) and there you have some nice scupper tunnels that are lighter, bigger and easier to install

[michael950]

Though I can not call you out on the PVC with facts, just the labor and what you would have to do be done to fix this IF there were a problem would be painful.

Maybe you can have someone local fab something up. The hard part is already done (the design / path). I recommend local just as a way to speed things up.

I would hate to see another "fix-it" thread.

$ .02

[Matt_E]

What's to fix? :dunno:
Have any of you put your hand over the exhaust outlet while it's running?
The exhaust gases are far too cool to do any damage to PVC this far down the line.
Crap, you can put your hand on the end of the b-pipe chamber without a problem.
I really don't think this is anything to worry about.

[freestylegeek]

...I really don't think this is anything to worry about.

That's the attitude I need!:arms: :biggrin:

[goodq]

What about the ribs in the front ?
You living them in ?

He is keeping them. :sneaky:

[demolition_x]

i have a front exhaust aluminum T... pm me an offer if you want it.

[freestylegeek]

i have a front exhaust aluminum T... pm me an offer if you want it.

Pat at X-Metalworks already beat ya to it. :-)

[freestylegeek]

What about the ribs in the front ?
You living them in ?

Staying in.
Function over form my friend.

[goodq]

That's the attitude I need!:arms: :biggrin:

I think that is how I will be doing mine, whats nice about this is Geek's ski will be done before mine probably will start so I can get some insight :biggthumpup:
Go Geek :cheer:

[yamaslut]

Staying in.
Function over form my friend.

what about clearance, Clarence???

The B-pipe will not fit :biggrin:
well.... it may fit, but it will be tight
and most likely rub

[freestylegeek]

what about clearance, Clarence???

The B-pipe will not fit :biggrin:
well.... it may fit, but it will be tight
and most likely rub

Now all you 'rib haters' out there have to realize that the 'b' pipe will fit (well, the one I'll be using will fit). My old hull had the ribs in it and I never had a problem with rubbing. Granted, I always put Hydroturf between the pipe and hull, as well as between the pipe and engine...

Don't get me wrong Nick, I can see the damage to the ribs on this hull from the previous 'b' pipe user, so I know where your coming from.

[yamaslut]

Now all you 'rib haters' out there have to realize that the 'b' pipe will fit (well, the one I'll be using will fit). My old hull had the ribs in it and I never had a problem with rubbing. Granted, I always put Hydroturf between the pipe and hull, as well as between the pipe and engine...

Don't get me wrong Nick, I can see the damage to the ribs on this hull from the previous 'b' pipe user, so I know where your coming from.

I had to say it... :cool2:

[freestylegeek]

Hallelujah! It's finally a round nose!!! :arms: :arms:

I got the inside of the nosepiece glassed this weekend.
I'll be glassing the outside tonight or tomorrow.
After that's done, and I get a hold of some Plexus, I can glue the top deck on.

[douglee25]

Hallelujah! It's finally a round nose!!! :arms: :arms:

I got the inside of the nosepiece glassed this weekend.
I'll be glassing the outside tonight or tomorrow.
After that's done, and I get a hold of some Plexus, I can glue the top deck on.

Sweet! Looks great!

Doug

[chad]

Awesome!

[Big Kahuna]

Hey Matt, any ideas on rebuilding the nose when the top deck is still attached!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dooohhhhhh