b1 drive shafts

[jays333]

Hi all just bought a b1 motor ok drive shaft splines gone mid and long shaft is there any way of strengthening them as have heard its a common prob with blasters ? cheers

[global warmer]

hi,not sure about strengthening stainless steel,been down this road plenty of times in the past,my solution was good motor alignment,less vibrations,made my own grease by adding synthetic/ester,worked for me!

[jetrock]

JB weld it...really!

[JSmith5690]

JB weld it...really!

Seriously...Does this work?

[jays333]

JB weld it...really!
thats funny but its got me thinking

[LBE]

Seriously...Does this work?

Of course it works. You would never strip another driveshaft. You would also never be able to chage your prop or wear wing again.

[JSmith5690]

Of course it works. You would never strip another driveshaft. You would also never be able to chage your prop or wear wing again.

Oh...

[WaveDemon]

more important than motor alignment is pump alignment for stripped shafts.

[butti]

the jb weld trick will get a few more seasons out of a bad set of shafts though...

[Carbon Blaster]

WaveDemon is right, pump alignment is very important to minimise spline wear.
The majority of pumps in skis are never set up with perfect alignment, they are just bolted in.
Take off the mid shaft bearing housing from the bulkhead.
The prop shaft should sit exactly in the centre of the hole in the bulkhead.
I machined a sleeve that slides over the prop shaft & into the bulkhead.
The sleeve should slide back & forth easily - this will ensure correct alignment.
If the prop shaft is not centered, loosen the 4 pump bolts.
Remove all shims.
Adjust bolts left to right, front to rear, until prop shaft is in the center.
At least 1 bolt should be firm by this stage (pump foot sitting against hull).
Check the gap between the pump feet & the hull on any of the pump feet that aren't contacting with the hull.
The gap measurement is the thickness of the shim that is required for each pump foot.
Put in shims.
Tighten pump bolts.
Finished!

PS. if you have to replace either the prop shaft or middle shaft with a brand new shaft, don't just replace one, you must replace both.

[jays333]

WaveDemon is right, pump alignment is very important to minimise spline wear.
The majority of pumps in skis are never set up with perfect alignment, they are just bolted in.
Take off the mid shaft bearing housing from the bulkhead.
The prop shaft should sit exactly in the centre of the hole in the bulkhead.
I machined a sleeve that slides over the prop shaft & into the bulkhead.
The sleeve should slide back & forth easily - this will ensure correct alignment.
If the prop shaft is not centered, loosen the 4 pump bolts.
Remove all shims.
Adjust bolts left to right, front to rear, until prop shaft is in the center.
At least 1 bolt should be firm by this stage (pump foot sitting against hull).
Check the gap between the pump feet & the hull on any of the pump feet that aren't contacting with the hull.
The gap measurement is the thickness of the shim that is required for each pump foot.
Put in shims.
Tighten pump bolts.
Finished!

PS. if you have to replace either the prop shaft or middle shaft with a brand new shaft, don't just replace one, you must replace both.

thanks for the tips boys new shafts and allingment of pump and motor crucial cheers

[tom21]

anyone have any tips on how to shim the pto? I have the shims, but is nearly impossible to see how it sits in relation to the mounting surface way back in there. plus there is the rubber lip in the way. there is a slight bit of play between the shaft and sub shaft plus the oring to mess things up. I just don't see a way check it except mic it to the mounting surface to ensure it perpendicular.