View Full Version : SXR Hood Mods
Orlando_Gator
06-08-2008, 02:54 PM
Searching these forums can be painstaking... so I decided to start a new one about one topic - hood mods.
What has everyone done for [home made] hood mods in the way of:
-straps?
-air intake block off?
-finger holds on the outside of the hood?
-reducing weight?
Most of these things can be done with creativity and a few hours, so I figured we'd put all the hood mods in one spot.
Most interesting to me at this point is where do you drill the secondary hood holes after you do the blockoff on the main hood hole in the front? If you put them in the back, how big of holes and how many (pics?)? And does anyone have any problems with too much water or too little air after they make the mods? Thanks very much!
wnb800
06-08-2008, 05:55 PM
just the entire liner out of your hood EXCEPT for the rear "box" that takes off about 6-8lbs depending if your waterlogged or not. then drill a hole in the back of the hood which allows for better breathing. then get some duct tape and put it over the intake hole in the front. no problems or issues that are hood related.
here you go, alot of failed barrel rolls & still holding strong.
wnb800
06-08-2008, 10:53 PM
thats what mine looks like haha
Orlando_Gator
06-08-2008, 11:09 PM
Sweeeet. That's what I was hoping for... nice, detailed pics. Very nice man. Thank you.
PS: the middle picture looks like you have a couple of oyster shells sitting in your hood. hehe
CD155MX
06-09-2008, 02:00 AM
here you go, alot of failed barrel rolls & still holding strong.
HEY 5810 thanks for posting the pics. Your hood looks good.
What is the turf for on the inside of the hood next to the hood seal???
keeps the hood from moving side to side & poping the latch loose. i would still recommend hood staps, saved my ski many times.
CD155MX
06-10-2008, 02:46 AM
keeps the hood from moving side to side & poping the latch loose. i would still recommend hood staps, saved my ski many times.
I will be taking your advice next week after my final are over. Thanks
SXRguyinMA
06-30-2008, 07:20 AM
nice pics, now I can cut my hood up and try it
sicksxr07
03-26-2009, 06:11 PM
you guys should like this..... it lowered about 1.5-2 inches from stock. it weighs in right at 12.8lbs.. i jumped on it numerous times and it gave me nothing but satisfaction.... i will be adding light inlet tubes to drop the water in the hull so it dosent go splashing in from either side... the sides and front and back seal areas are strengthened up.. the center has patches of 40oz cloth so my ratchet strap wont cave the hood in... i will be adding turf to the sides to help from side to side movement.. spent about $60 in materials.. a far cry from a $1000 trinity hood... although i would still love that....
sicksxr07
03-26-2009, 06:21 PM
more pics
sicksxr07
03-26-2009, 06:24 PM
pics
BombThreat
03-26-2009, 06:34 PM
thats some really good glass work, nice job!
sicksxr07
03-26-2009, 06:46 PM
thanks man, this was actually still my stock hood..... i had a mental break down with my hood and the hood i got from you... your hood is sitting cut up in my garage...
redsxr800
03-26-2009, 07:31 PM
can`t wait to see how that ski holds up this year. you did alot of mods on that hull
sicksxr07
03-26-2009, 10:08 PM
should be a peach.... all work done with epoxy resin, all new 4lb foam in back and very very meticulously prepped surfaces for best adhesion... i have no doubt that she will be fine for years to come.... and this is my first experiences with doing fiberglass work
djkorn1
03-26-2009, 10:14 PM
should be a peach.... all work done with epoxy resin, all new 4lb foam in back and very very meticulously prepped surfaces for best adhesion... i have no doubt that she will be fine for years to come.... and this is my first experiences with doing fiberglass work
How much weight did it lose?
StandupWI
03-27-2009, 12:59 AM
.... and this is my first experiences with doing fiberglass work
Wow! Very nice work for it only being your first time. I can't wait to hear a ride report once you get everything done. Looks great and keep us updated.
SXRguyinMA
04-08-2009, 07:01 AM
I like the way it looks cut down, I may have to try that :)
sicksxr07
04-13-2009, 09:37 PM
How much weight did it lose?
lol totally forgot to weight it before i started but right now its at 12.5lbs ready for paint........... so i keep hearing stock ones are around 25lbs... so say a total of 12 to 13 lbs.... its no trinity hood tho!! im extremely happy with it for my first time
tyv12
05-14-2009, 12:45 AM
just got done my hood straps, got some straps from an outboard motor cover and some stainless fittings it was quick, cheap and bigger straps than u buy on the internet
djkorn1
05-16-2009, 09:35 PM
lol totally forgot to weight it before i started but right now its at 12.5lbs ready for paint........... so i keep hearing stock ones are around 25lbs... so say a total of 12 to 13 lbs.... its no trinity hood tho!! im extremely happy with it for my first time
That hull looks tough as nails...pics of it painted?:mischievous:
JohnG
06-25-2009, 10:26 AM
Is another breather necessary if you block off the front and cut the extra hole in the back? Will the one breather allow enough air for the engine? I've seen pics with both, wondering if its good either way.
rollin5150
06-25-2009, 03:51 PM
You will want to add the other breather in the back. I also relocated my front drop down tube to the rear as well. My ski does not bog after subs, fountains, stabs, etc.
Here's mine that I modified For my dry pipe, it doesn't take on hardly any water but bogs horribly after submersion.
You will want to add the other breather in the back. I also relocated my front drop down tube to the rear as well. My ski does not bog after subs, fountains, stabs, etc. How's that setup do for water intrusion? I'm considering adding another tube in the rear or leaving the front breather half open.
You will want to add the other breather in the back. I also relocated my front drop down tube to the rear as well. My ski does not bog after subs, fountains, stabs, etc.
1)How did you attach your 2nd tube? it looks like you just clamped it like the factory one.
2)Is it better to have them on either side of the air box or side by side?
3)Does the length of tube make a difference?
4) What did you do to your air tube in the front? tape/block it off or did you leave it open?
Thanks
rollin5150
06-30-2009, 03:11 PM
1)How did you attach your 2nd tube? it looks like you just clamped it like the factory one.
2)Is it better to have them on either side of the air box or side by side?
3)Does the length of tube make a difference?
4) What did you do to your air tube in the front? tape/block it off or did you leave it open?
Thanks
I cut out the part that the tube clamps on the front and expoxied it in the rear. I used the stock tube up front which was me being a cheap ass. I put the other one on the other side due to clearance issues. The length of the tube was shortened due to the head pipe of my wetpipe. The front intake was blocked off with the blowsion block off plate but any plug, duck tape, and or fiberglass will work.
rollin5150
06-30-2009, 03:13 PM
How's that setup do for water intrusion? I'm considering adding another tube in the rear or leaving the front breather half open.
I do still get a fair amount of water during subs and fountains but that is just the nature of the beast. If you need air to get in, then water will get in when submerged. I run a versiplug and dual 500GPH bilges. I am always careful what way I lean my ski as well. So far I hardly ever if never get water in my carbs.
Awesome thanks for the info.
Derk
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