Squarenose Project Back ON!!

[Freestyleriverrat]

Well I was in the process of getting an X-jet hull but I'm not getting as much back from my taxes as I anticipated so I am not ordering the hull until mid summer.....no big deal. I kept figuring stuff out and on top of the hull I needed to get allot of small misc stuff that would would just set me over my budget. Plus I want to compete in Amateur freestyle this season and can't do it on an aftermarket hull. The x-jet project is still on b/c my hood is starting to crack in a couple spots, I don't want to spend the cash on an aftermarket hood and of course I still want an x-jet :Banane01:

So here is a list of the current mods:

Hull & Handling:

Cyclone Footholds
24/7 scupper
Shortedned Protec ride plate
Worx intake grate
Turfed rails
Chopped Aluminum handlepole 2 in
-1 Blowsion turnplate
Dual Exhaust
Modified hood (filled in intakes, blowsion drop in handholds, homemade hood liner, repositioned intakes and drainage)
24/7 hood straps
Protec trim system set up for freestyle
UMI finger throttle
Dual bilge pumps on homemade mounting bracket
Dual cooling lines installed

650 motor (2005 season):

Protec recreational head
Cylinders ported by group K for mid-top end power
DG Performance Keihin CDKII pumper 38mm carbs
FMF ram valves
Full pro-tec F-series exhaust w/ matching manifold
Water bypass setup
Factory pipe aluminum waterbox
Stainless impeller (I forget the pitch)

2005 650 motor additions (will go on the 701 motor)

MSD enhancer ignition
Flywheel lightened by Pro-tec
Jetskisolutions rebuilt stator coils and upgraded plug wires
Jetskisolutions stator bolts and washer
Prok flame arrestors and prefilters
Dual cooling
Stubby cone
Solas concord impeller

[Freestyleriverrat]

FS Motor Decision:

Just got done talking to Paul at Jr. Magoos and looks like we decided the motor would be in the 100-105hp range and will consist of:

Jr Magoo's FS ported stock 61x cylinder with 82mm or 82.5mm bore
AJS girdled head with 33cc domes making 180-185lbs compression
Ported and epoxy filled 62t cases
Lightened flywheel
V-force reeds
Factory B-pipe w/ mod chamber
R&D intake
R&R reeds spacers
Dual stock 44mm carbs
Proks and prefilters

[Freestyleriverrat]

Here are some pics of the intake and other components. Other things I am doing to the square are a 24/7 nose peice, internal fuel fill (needed for x-jet), rail extensions and returf rails.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Well I waste no time. I started on the rail extensions tonight. I am using a piece of composit quarter round molding that is bonded to the side. That is to give it some form.....nice flat top for surface area and nice smooth curve that meets the rail. I will then blend it into the ski with glass to give it more strength, followed up with turf.

[sjweber]

I am going to start sanding my ski soon and would love to get a pipe. You're ski is going to be nice. Competeing would be cool. I hope you can do it.
that motor is going to rock!!!!! can not wait to see it

[Freestyleriverrat]

I need to sand and paint the bottom of the ski as well. I think I am just going to use a brush on hull paint from a boat suplier. I don't want to spend allot of bread on it and that paint is pretty durable. I did one side just to see what it would look like......but I didn't do any prep work so it did not stick to the surface.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Started working on blueprinting the pump. Just removing the casting imperfection and smoothing it out. Hopefully I don't screw it up. I'm shouldn't, I'm not reshaping anything. Here are some pic. I'm still in the process of working on it. I would say it is about 70% there in the 3rd pic.

[2nd nature]

why use quarter round it doesnt cover the side of rail. how will you turf over it?i bought the thing you did and took it back today and they sale 1"x2" pvc composit that fits better. not bashing what you are doing im trying the same thing just couldnt figure out how to make the quarter round look right without using 2 pieces per side so i got the bigger stuff. any imput?

[Freestyleriverrat]

I used the quarter round b/c if you put the curved side on the bottom there will be a nice flat area on top so hopefully that will give me more contact area on the top of the rail instead of having just a wide round rail. The bottom I will blend in so the turf can cover it easily. Plus it gives me more room to glass it to make it stronger. Adding turf will add a little width as well so I was kind of factoring that in also. Either way will work.

[Matt_E]

BTW, that's an ADA head...not AJS. But I gather that's where you bought it. How much were the couplers?

[Freestyleriverrat]

BTW, that's an ADA head...not AJS. But I gather that's where you bought it. How much were the couplers?

I know...I need to change that in the build up page. I ordered a AJS head and kept waiting for it......Jim finally emailed me and said that they were still waiting on anouther shipment of them so he just sent me the ADA for what I paid for the AJS head. So that saved me like 25 bucks. Same with the coupler......I ordered I think UMI couplers but he upgraded me to the Riva ones for no charge and included and dampner. I think the riva's go for like 130ish where the UMI are closer to 100.

[2nd nature]

the 1"x2" fits perfect and its square?

[Freestyleriverrat]

I'll have to check it out. I only put one side on as a test fit. Post a pic when you get yours on.

[2nd nature]

i went to two hd to find it.

[Matt_E]

the 1"x2" fits perfect and its square?


:biggrin:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Finshed up my pump tonight. I did not have a bit to get it all in very tight spots but I think it turned out well. It is allot smoother than it was when I started so that makes me feel like I acomplished something :arms: whoo hoo The ridges you see in the pics I really can't feel with my hand, so the transition is pretty clean. I will probably send the impeller to impros to be cut back next week.

[2lick]

NICE JOB!!

Im using a dremel to do mine and it dosnt look as nice as yours.

What did you use, bits, method, etc.

Thanks-NICK

[Freestyleriverrat]

The dremel extension helps out alot with getting in tight spaces. The medium sanding bit I used to get the big stuff, the small I used to get closer to the veins, the large 120 sanding wheel I used to blend wherever I could reach with it, mainly in the center section on the pump and around the pump cone. Then I just used 80 grit emry cloth followed up by 150 grit. I was going to use a finer grit but that would be over kill IMO. The files helped with some if the tight spots as well.....it makes it a little rough but I went over it with 80 grit and that smoothed it out again.

[2lick]

Cool man thats just the explination Im looking for. I need to go buy that extention I think and that flappy wheel those will get me through it. Thanks again and nice job tell us how it turns out and what you notice.


Thanks-NICk

[Freestyleriverrat]

Finshed the nozzel as well. Started out at about 81.75-82.0mm and ended up at 83.67mm (measured vertically) and 83.76 (measured side to side).....so for a dremel it is pretty close. This is not as thick as a aftermarket nozzel so I did not want to bore it out much more, plus I'm running a stubby cone so I kept it just under 84mm as opposed to my original target of 84.25mm.

[IceRocket1286]

hey dude, projects lookin good! but donnnnt brush the bottom. ewww. at least get a cheap paint you can soray on with a gun.

If you have a gun, look into this new paint called ful-thane. Its like an emron, and I used it on my square that i just painted. It comes with a hardner and reducer and the paint itself.

All in all it was about $27 for 1 quart of black, and $8 a piece for the other stuff, hardner and reducer. There is enough hardner and reducer to do 2 quarts tho, so I also used it on my top deck.

and it looks GREAT, and it dries hard, for abuse.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Yeah.....I was kind of bummed when I did that (decided not to get the x-jet this summer) and I had the paint laying around. There was no prep work involed and it was comming off with my fingernail so I'm going to sand the bottom, fill in the gouges and spray on a metallic black or do the whole ski in a copper metallic. I am not sure yet. I want to do a good job so I will take my time, get a compressor, gun and look into paint options.

[Freestyleriverrat]

I have a 24/7 solid nose piece and internal fuel fill comming so that will help clean up the lines of the ski......as well as anouther cool part to top off the build....then I'm done buying sh** I swear :biggrin:

[IceRocket1286]

:bs2: :biggrin:

[2nd nature]

heres a picture the rail extensions im working on. i forgot to show it to you with the 1x2" pvc board

[Freestyleriverrat]

That looks good.....where did you get that? I don't think I saw it a HD.

[2lick]

I'm going to sand the bottom, fill in the gouges and spray on a metallic black or do the whole ski in a copper metallic. I am not sure yet. I want to do a good job so I will take my time, get a compressor, gun and look into paint options.


Copy cat :biggrin: That were Im at now Im filling in the bottom and smothing out.

I also am doing a black bottom orange/copper top and black ring around hood with black pole. I am going to borrow a comressor from a freind. Im between 2 guns I havent decided yet. Absolute cheapest yuoll find --- http://www.spraygunworld.com/

Hope this helps...

[Freestyleriverrat]

lol....did you post that anywhere or did I just read your mind :) I'm not 100% sure yet but am looking at a copper metallic top, black metallic bottom and black pole. A white pearl top would look good as well but I am not sure yet.....I need to look into the white peal but have not really found it anywhere. I do want metallic it is just a matter of making the flakes in the top match the bottom. Here is the copper paint I am looking at http://www.paintforcars.com/alp_coppermetallic.html

[Freestyleriverrat]

Are we going to have ourself a Squarenose Build Off..........two unkown builders compete head to head to build the ulitmate Squarenose SJ :biggrin:

[2lick]

Cool paint...

I havent looked into paint much at all. Went to paint store to get sandpapers and stuff. They sell PPG products. I think Im gonna go along those lines but I have never painted before and dont know a thing about it. I figure if the people at the store help me through it ill buy my stuff from them.

Im not sure about the metal flake. Id would like to though. Is it very exspensive, and Am I corect that you mix it in with your first layer of clear coat.

I think the metal flake would help if I have any imperfections in my hull work. (I will haha)

Squarenose build off it is :biggrin: Your one:headbang:

but we can still help each other...:frown:

[Freestyleriverrat]

I will definatly need help on mine. I have never painted before either so it will be a learning experience. I really don't want to paint my ski but my hood looks like crap and if I do hand holds I will need to clean it up a little. Plus the bottom of mine has gouges all over so I just want to get it back up to par.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Here are some pick of my ski torn down to the hull. I drilled a couple holes in the back and stood it up in the garage to see if there was any water in it......none. That makes sense b/c mine always felt pretty light. I did not do a great job on the reinforcing b/c I did not get the ribs all the wal down. I thought that the glass would form around it......but it didn't I can't reccomend the Blowsion reinforcing kit.....it did not even have enough carbon to go down to the bottom of the ski as advertised. I guess they were talking about the glass only. That still ticks me off.......I will probably add a little more this summer when I reinforce the nose.

I also want to add some mid mount hand holds. I got the Blowsion drop-in's and don't like them that far up on the hood. That mean I have to redo my hood liner........hopefully I can redo it to make it a little lighter.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Cool paint...........
Im not sure about the metal flake. Id would like to though. Is it very exspensive, and Am I corect that you mix it in with your first layer of clear coat.


Yeah......the metal flake process is a little to invilved for me, thats why I think I am going the metallic paint route. Gives you a nice sparkle effect but easier for the novice to apply.

[SuperJETT]

I will definatly need help on mine. I have never painted before either so it will be a learning experience. I really don't want to paint my ski but my hood looks like crap and if I do hand holds I will need to clean it up a little. Plus the bottom of mine has gouges all over so I just want to get it back up to par.

Hunter, I can help you out some. I've always painted my own skis except for my 550 in Hawaii which my buddy did the spraying on. I've got a compressor big enough but always bummed a spray gun when needed, but now there is a Harbor Freight in town so that's a good place to get a spray gun for under $30.

I've also got an old blower I use for ventilation and always build a temporary spray booth with $10 worth of materials---1x2's and plastic sheeting.

Let me know.

[Freestyleriverrat]

That would be great! I can get a gun no problem and pretty much have my paint scheme chosen. Once it warms up a little I am going to start sanding it down and filling in the gouges.

[h2odesperado]

How neccesary is it to add rail extensions to put turf on it? I want the look of turf but I don't spend a ton of time on the hood. Does the turf get glued the just the black rail or the ski's lip as well?

[Freestyleriverrat]

I don't glue it to the stock black rail. Glue deos not stick to plastic ver well from my experience on my kawi 650. I remove the plastic bumpers and just use like a 3m contact cement to put the turf on, same way you would do it in the tray. I'm doing rail extensions to aid in hood tricks and I like the way they look. It was not that necessary, it is a matter of personal preference since I switched from soft aqua boots to shoes the more contact area I have the better.

[Legdragger]

I like the way you guys are doing the rails. Not something I would need in surf but it always fun to see what people can find at home depot to use on their jet ski. I think I get more stuf from the hardware store or home depot than an actual parts dealer.

[2nd nature]

That looks good.....where did you get that? I don't think I saw it a HD.

they have it it took me going to two different homedepot. its in the trim section. look for it . it almost fits the rail perfect.were putting a engine together tonight and hope to attach the rails so i can start shaping them.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Just got done talking (email) to Sergio about the cherry on top of my ski :headbang: He is custom making a billit bracket for my squarenose to run the XFT carbon/kevlar pole. Obviously I plan to run that pole on the X-jet as well, whenever that project takes off. I am also going to run the XFT -1.5 steering system so that should take anouther .5in off the total length of my current set up. It should take a good month or so before I have the pole, but that is typical with any custom part. Weight should be 7lbs with the pad :biggrin:

Sergio seems like a cool guy and I can't wait to see the pole when completed. It will have white turf on pole as opposed to the orange in the pic. The price with the bracket is about what you would pay for an x-metal pole with a carbon pad.....so it is about the same......

Carbon/Kevlar pole.......$618.00
Custom Bracket...........$200.00 (he is charging me the same price as the normal bracket even though this one is being made for the squarenose SJ)

X-metal Pole and Bracket.....$600.00
24/7 Carbon pole pad..........$165.00

[Freestyleriverrat]

24/7 nose and internal fuel fill came in today. Looks great and is nice and thick......won't be breaking that thing.....hopefully. Also got a 24/7 plate from Slymo......thanks

[Freestyleriverrat]

Modifying Blowsion front exhaust to look cleaner. I'll just update the pics as it progresses. First pic is how it was, the succeeding pics show the progression of the exhaust. Just as a note......if you have a squarenose SJ you will have to make a custom T-fitting or modify the one in the kit. The 96-present uses a different size exhaust hose. Below is the one I had fabed up out of stainless.

[2nd nature]

Finshed the nozzel as well. Started out at about 81.75-82.0mm and ended up at 83.67mm (measured vertically) and 83.76 (measured side to side).....so for a dremel it is pretty close. This is not as thick as a aftermarket nozzel so I did not want to bore it out much more, plus I'm running a stubby cone so I kept it just under 84mm as opposed to my original target of 84.25mm.

i just got my dremel extensiontoday to work on my pump and nozzel . what bit did you use on the nozzle ?

[Freestyleriverrat]

I just used the 120 sanding bit.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Paint

Bottom Deck PPG Honda "Nighthwak Black Pearl"

Top Deck PPG Custom Mix "Copperhead" from the show trucks Project Copperhead

The pics don't do the black pearl justice but it has a very slight blue pearl to it. It does not pop like the copper but looks nice up close.....I may have to do some of that on the hood.

[2lick]

Sweet colors man. All the paint I used was PPG some omni line and some deltron I bilieve. It sprayed great. Oh yeah a little trick I learned, keep the floor wet where your spraying. It helped knock down the amount of dust in the air.

Good Luck!!!

[Freestyleriverrat]

Pressure washed the hull after ruffing up the surface. Also trimmed the lip of the front nose so I can grab ahold of it more easily. Went around the lip with a sander b/c I kept cutting the sh** out of my hads last season when I would grab under the rail. Trimming the nose makes the ski look a little sleaker and IMO feels better b/c it now fits in our hand.

Pics with the rubber nose are a comparison.

[IceRocket1286]

How copme you bought a nosepiece instead of glassing yours together? It would have been cheaper ands easier, and if it blew off THEN you could buy a new one lol.

Just wondering, and nice choice of colors!

[Freestyleriverrat]

How copme you bought a nosepiece instead of glassing yours together? It would have been cheaper ands easier, and if it blew off THEN you could buy a new one lol.



B/c my stock nose is on the bottom of Klinger Lake :) That thing was rivoted on....guess it was not on good enough. One sub and it was gone.

[Freestyleriverrat]

BAM!!!!! Now we have the power :woot: More pic will follow when I start putting it all togather. Carbs shipped today as well. It's all finally comming togather.

[h2odesperado]

looks great!!!:woot: :woot: :woot:


and its got the magic M word engraved on it, so you know its gonna go!!

[Freestyleriverrat]

I know I am taking allot of pics durring this build and progress is a bit slow at times but I wanted to document things for my files and I'm just sharing along the way.

Worked on installing the electronics and flywheel tonight. All 6M6 electronics off my 650 motor.

-JSS SS stator screws and washers installed
-Rebuilt stator last year (done by JSS)
-MSD enhancer
-Pro-tec lightened stock 6M6 flywheel
-Cleaned up the flywheel cover

??? Its not all buttoned up yet, should I run timing advance in conjunction with the MSD enhancer?

[SuperJETT]

??? Its not all buttoned up yet, should I run timing advance in conjunction with the MSD enhancer?

No, not at all.

[eschberg]

Paint

Bottom Deck PPG Honda "Nighthwak Black Pearl"

Top Deck PPG Custom Mix "Copperhead" from the show trucks Project Copperhead

The pics don't do the black pearl justice but it has a very slight blue pearl to it. It does not pop like the copper but looks nice up close.....I may have to do some of that on the hood.


Man, I was going to redo my ski with that exact paint scheme next summer. Im dying to see how your's turns out.

[Freestyleriverrat]

No, not at all.

I didn't think that would be a good idea. So only advance a a ski with an OEM cdi. As far as the temp sensor that was mounted to the head, I jut need to cut that off and seal up the box right?

[2nd nature]

i like the fly wheel cover:biggthumpup:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Cost Break Down

Some guys on PWC were asking me to post this to help people plan their builds. I don't have all the info exactly b/c I have been buying parts for this motor over the last year, so some things I will need to go off memory. Some parts I got deals on others I paid to much for b/c I changed my mind on what I was going to run. This would have been allot cheaper if I just built up an existing 701, but I went from a 650 to a 701. This is also not all out of pocket funds, I parted out the modded 650 motor and got about 1000 from all that.

*ADA head/ 33cc domes and hardware.......................340.00ish
*B-pipe with mod chamber and water injection.............450.00 (I'm not running the water injection)
*New Hot Rods Crank............................................. ..350.00
*62T cases............................................. ...............180.00
*61x cylinder.......................................... ................90.00
*Riva Couplers.......................................... ..............100.00
*Lightened flywheel service by pro-tec........................50.00
*F/S porting........................................... ................350.00
*Case porting and epoxy filling...................................450.00
*Materials to blueprint pump......................................16.00
*Stubby cone.............................................. ...........50.00
*Used Riva manifold.......................................... .......60.00
*Stock carbs w/ stock cages, manifold, boyesen reeds and reed stuffers.......................................... .......................250.00
*V-force reeds (bought from a racer that had 1 race on them)............................................. ......................124.00
*Wiseco Forged Piston Kit........................................249.54
*Cylinder boring............................................ .........110.00
*Motor Assembly and Pressure test............................190.00
*JSS Complete carb rebuild (new jets, all SS screws internal and external, UMI throttle wheel, blast and re-epoxy coat, porperly shimm and mount to R&D manifold, billit mixture knobs ect.....not taper bored!! He may have done some more stuff, I pretty much told him to do the whole 9 yards on them).................................411.00

Total Motor Stuff thus far........................................3820.54

Minus $$ from parting out 650..................................1000ish

Shelled out $$..............................................ab out 2500.00

Hope this helps some of you guys and gals build you boats. In retro spect........just buy a ski with a 701 and you will save a crap load of money. Honestly iy probably would have been more cost effective to sell my 650 and buy a roundnose sj....but then again I have allot of time and $$ in the hull as well and it was handling great last year, just needed more power. I think you guys can get the idea of why I am not getting my X-jet this year :) Doing the complete motor was in my plans but replacing the tranfercase in my Jeep and getting 1/2 back from my tax return was not :(

[IceRocket1286]

damn jeeps

[Freestyleriverrat]

damn jeeps

No joke.........1200-1300 w/ a slip yoke eliminator on it. Thankfully I can drive it, only the 4wd does not work right. Oh-well it has 150,000 miles on it something was bound to go out. The motor and tras were replaced by the previous owner..........and they only have 3000 miles on them so I guess I'll have a new drive train when I'm done. :ugh2: :nutkick: :drive:

[RadRat]

wow thats going to be badass!! sweet work

[IceRocket1286]

yeah, that motor is sick too.

WHile your at it, lift that jeep. mwuahahaha

[Big Kahuna]

Cost Break Down

*JSS Complete carb rebuild (new jets, all SS screws internal and external, UMI throttle wheel, blast and re-epoxy coat, porperly shimm and mount to R&D manifold, billit mixture knobs ect.....not taper bored!! He may have done some more stuff, I pretty much told him to do the whole 9 yards on them).................................411.00(

got a couple of questions.............

1. How do you shim a manifold and carb? is this something JSS Recommended?
2. Find out if JSS Blueprinted your carbs......
3. How and or why would JSS recommend you put 38mm mikuni's on a 44mm R&D Manifold?? Lost here....... the bolt spacing is wider for 44's vs 38's

[Freestyleriverrat]

1. How do you shim a manifold and carb? is this something JSS Recommended?

The throttle shaft is shimmed to keep the butterfly centered in the throat of the carb. (I think). Alot of time when you hold the carb in your hands it will have a little play in it, John gets rid of that play and rebuild it. When you have play in it that begins to wear the butterfly and can possibly give you tuning problem if it is worn bad, from my understanding. My whole deal with send the carbs was I bought them from the same guy I bought a 701 motor from that was "freshly rebuilt". Poped it apart to find light rust on one crank bearing, the cylinder ported by ???, and repaired cases. Since I had to re-jet the carbs anyway I wanted John to go through them b/c they looked a little rough to me (some corossion, coating was peeling off, gaskets seemed like they were glued on there ect..).

2. Find out if JSS Blueprinted your carbs......

After hearing all the problem with taper boring and all that they are just rebuilt, rejetted (to Pauls specs for the motor) and cleaned up (blasted and re-epoxy coated)

3. How and or why would JSS recommend you put 38mm mikuni's on a 44mm R&D Manifold?? Lost here....... the bolt spacing is wider for 44's vs 38's

No, they are 44mm carbs not 38's. When you run a R&D manifold it puts the carbs closer togather which requires a shorter linkage coupler (see pic). I just sent him all of that stuff and had him mount it to the manifold and adjust it properly.

[Big Kahuna]

*Stock carbs w/ stock cages, manifold, boyesen reeds and reed stuffers.......................................... .......................250.00

OK, I thought you had stock 38's (see quote above)

just wanted to make sure you knew what you were doing!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh, when you get it together, if it is not running right, try a stock stator......... been hearing more and more about peeps stators not working right after JSS modded them, had a few in Texas that was acting up.

[Freestyleriverrat]

The carbs came off a 62T motor. The stator and electrical worked fine on my 6m6 last year so i don't anticipate any problems there. Unless the enhance decided to crap out on me over the winter :)

[Freestyleriverrat]

WHile your at it, lift that jeep. mwuahahaha

Oh....she's lifted :Banane01:

[accbr]

Oh....she's lifted :Banane01:

You still need a winch. Got lockers??:saevilw:
j/k My jeep is finally done(for now)

Nice motor buildup. I'm trying to put a 701 together too, but doesn't look like it'll happen this summer. :banghead:

[Freestyleriverrat]

You still need a winch. Got lockers??:saevilw:



Nope, you don't need lockers when you have brass balls :haha: Just 411's in the rear, a slip yoke eliminator, sway bar disconnects, lifted 3in and sittin on 33's.

[Mouthfulloflake]

how long will that stock tranny and axles last with brass balls in a YJ?

:biggrin:

[Freestyleriverrat]

They have already been replaced :biggrin: I bought it from my buddy who destroyed the motor, trans and rear axel. He replaced that stuff and the transfer went out on me at Turkey Bay in Ky :banghead:

[2nd nature]

jeeps are cool i just sold my 87 wrangler 2 years ago also sold a 98 last year w/ 33s. now my 96 grand cherokee is getting a rustys off road 3 inch lift with a 2" budget boost. to clear 32s there not 33s but 32s look great on grands.

[Freestyleriverrat]

I like the wrangler but they beat you to death both on and off raod. My dad has a Grand Cherokee.....its nice! No really something you would take on the trail but nice all around car. I may get mine all fixed up and sell her next year. But man they are fun in the summer.......I love driving a car that you are not affraid to get banged up :biggthumpup:

SKI*** Carbs get her tommorrow so I'll post some before and after shots.

[accbr]

how long will that stock tranny and axles last with brass balls in a YJ?

:biggrin:

That's an argument for another board :27: Kinda like the single or dual carbs debate that comes up here occasionally.

Definitely post pics of the carbs when you get them. I need some inspiration to spend more money.

[Freestyleriverrat]

OK....back to the ski. Here are some pics before the 44mm carbs were sent to John at JSS.

[Freestyleriverrat]

WOW!!! :bigeyes: I am impressed. He did a killer job on these carbs. Complete rebuild inside and out. All SS screws, rejetted, billit mixture knobs and PJS throttle wheel. Linkage squared away so it will mount to the R&D manifold, blasted the body and applied a killer looking epoxy coating. They don't even look like the same carbs. The pump cover plates were mismatched so he hooked me up with a matching set. Thanks John A++ on this job :biggrin:

Jetting Specs for motor:

110 main
117.5 pilot
2.0/95g

[Freestyleriverrat]

Still working on body stuff.......have glass and resin on the way to reinfoce under the handle pole bracket area. Have to wait until the pole gets her to see if I need to reolcate the hood hooks to fit the bracket, I don't know how Sergio is doing it yet.

Going over paint sketches. I'm going for a clean look, no stickers or stuff like that.......redoing the turf. Hopefully I can get just the Wamiltons' dash piece but I don't think they sell them seperatly. It will be the same set up, solid black on the side w/ Hydro turf in white and I think I am going to use solid black on the rails as well......any suggstions thus far.......you guys like the black bottom or should I do it all copper? I'm still debating

?? What is a good way to get the glue off the rails.....sandpaper or is there a stripper somewhere I can use?

[accbr]

I like the black bottom, but dark colors will show scratches more.

[2nd nature]

why does jss charge so much for carb work. just seems a little high. it :biggthumpup: does look good

[eschberg]

Black bottom and Copper top gets my vote.

[Freestyleriverrat]

why does jss charge so much for carb work. just seems a little high. it :biggthumpup: does look good

It was expensive for me b/c I got like every service and part he had (twice), except taper boring. All new jets, n/s, billit knobs, complete rebuilds, blasting, epoxy coating, rebuild linkages, properly shimm shaft (which feels really smooth btw), mount to manifold, billit throttle wheel and all SS screws internal and external. In retro spec I could have bought a new set of Novi's for about 200 more on top of JSS and the original price of the carbs.

[IceRocket1286]

Oh....she's lifted :Banane01:


shhh look i the background:cool2: :Banane01: :Banane01:

4 inch bds lift on 35 pro comp mud terrains.

[Freestyleriverrat]

What build would be complete w/o a defoam and refoaming w/ 2lb foam. I figured since this is a complete rebuild I might as well see if I was taking on any water. To my surprise it was just slightly damp at the bottom :banghead: Guess I could have left it alone......but we are talking about me and I don't leave sh!@ alone. 2lb foam should do the trick and save a little weight.......at least thats how I'm justifying the work :cool2:

**When doing foam take away the foam arounf the exhaust pipe, drill out the rivots of the pipe and remove for easy access to the rest of the foam.

This project really is not all that bad if you are not in a rush to get on the water. I am just taking my time and am rather enjoying it. Have the right tools though. I took most the foam out with a screw driver in large chunks, then used the grinder with a shop vac runnning next to the grinder. This really cust down on the foam flying aroung. That stuff is nasty and you don't want to breath it in.............wear a good resperator and gloves. Keep checking you vac filter...........I cleaned mine at least 6 times.

[Mouthfulloflake]

shhh look i the background:cool2: :Banane01: :Banane01:

4 inch bds lift on 35 pro comp mud terrains.

hehe

ill bet that cruises the mall really well.

:biggrin:

[Freestyleriverrat]

filling joints w/ black 3M 5200 sealant. I only had a little water in it. The points that were leaking were the drive shaft tube and a couple of the ride plate bolts. From the factory it looks like they used stickers to cover the top of the screws threads. I think I am going to use SS or plastic caps and epoxy them on.......then put a little sealant over that.

[2lick]

Looks good man....refoaming is one thing I didnt do and I already regret it. Cant wait to see you paint it!!!

[Freestyleriverrat]

I plan to have it in my buddies booth 1 week. I have allot of body stuff to take care of. I am waiting on my hood gasket so I can put that on and trim the hood for a tight seal, then I have to do fiberglass work, reinforce the nose, mud the body and block sand it. I take it back.......2 weeks it will be ready for paint :biggrin: If everything goes well I will be turfing and putting the motor in by the first week of may.

[sjweber]

looks great. where di you get you're glass, foam and stuff?
I debated on yanking the rear exhaust and installing a second scupper and just doing front exhaust. hhmmm I will probably just keep it the way it is. I want to ride sometime soon.

[2lick]

looks great. where di you get you're glass, foam and stuff?
I debated on yanking the rear exhaust and installing a second scupper and just doing front exhaust. hhmmm I will probably just keep it the way it is. I want to ride sometime soon.

uscomposites.com

[Freestyleriverrat]

Weighed the hull.......99-101lbs (my scale is not that accurate) w/o foam or hood. The hood weighs in at 13-14lbs. So with foam and footholds I estimate it will weigh 120-130. Not to bad considering it is reinforced and a stock round nose weighs in at about 105-110 so I am pretty much right on target. It's still a big biotch........not SXR big :biggrin: but still pretty chunky.

I'm not to worried about weight at this point b/c I think last year it handled great, just needed a little more power. SO if I can tie up some loose ends, keep the same weight and increase power I should be happy w/ its all around performance. I wish I weighed my 650 motor and protec exhaust......I swear the new 701 feel lighter maybe 5lbs +.....that protec exhaust on the 650 was hefty.

[2lick]

I have a motor with a protec exhaust. I can wieght it this weekend. Its not in my ski yet :frown: I wish it was though

[Mile9c1]

The 650 and the 701 weigh the same, or within 1-2 pounds depending which carb setup you run. The Protec exhaust is about 21 pounds and the B pipe is about 14 so you'll save some weigh there.

All weights I post are approximate...

[Freestyleriverrat]

Prep work is the devil......................almost done though...........NOT!! :)

[Matt_E]

prep work SUCKS. All for 3 minutes of spraying.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Still working........Glassed in the exhust tube and the old scupper tube hole in the rear of the ski to drop it down a little more. Mounting dual scuppers out the back and single exhaust out the front (this thing will sound like it has 383 stroker in it :biggrin:) I hope I get this thing done by the Riot Ride..........we are getting high 70-degree weather and I am getting ancey, but allas I can't rush it. I will be riding this ski for a while and want to do it up the way I enjoy them.

The nice thing about defoaming the ski and installing scuppers is you can fully seal it on the inside as well so that takes away allot of worry about it leaking.

[sjweber]

Looks awsome. I like the dual scuppers. Maybe next winter project. I just want to get mine to the paint booth.

[Freestyleriverrat]

I just want to get mine to the paint booth.

Took mine to be painted this mourning.......I feel so much better now that I don't have to worry about it. I did not wnt to spend big bucks on the paint so I did most the body work and told my buddy to just look over it and throw on some color. We will see how it turns out.

[eschberg]

Back from paint yet?

[Freestyleriverrat]

Not yet........probably in about a week and a half. I don't know if I am going to post pics of the paint until after the Riot Ride Build Off. I may keep it as a surprise until them........if I am not happy with it I will definatly post pics :biggrin:

[sjweber]

dude, I have quite a bit of work to do yet. I talked to my painter today and he said it would be alot easier if I take the turf off. I kind of saw that coming. Now I get to search for some turf kits. I debated on extending the rails as well. I may review you're pics and descriptions.

[Freestyleriverrat]

I hear you man, I tried to see if I could paint around the turf but it was just not happening. I am just trying to get things organized so when I get the hull back I can start assembling stuff. I am still waiting on allot of parts and amhelping Mack on his ski while mine is in paint. I have to order turf as well but am not set on what turf to get. I need to go ahead and order that along with some foam so I can wrap this thing up and ride. So much to do, so little time and money is now getting tight. I'll send you a pic when it gets back from the painter.

[Freestyleriverrat]

:biggthumpup: Unfortunatly it won't be on by the build off (maybe if I had more time and $$ I would do the mods to put it on).........just getting a jump on next seasons little project.

[h2odesperado]

:bigeyes: :bigeyes: :bigeyes:


:Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Well I have paid all my bills and almost have all my parts. I will post pics after the riot ride. Hull will be back from paint this week. Any whoo.....I'm getting ancy and want to post an update :rolleyes:

Total build cost for everything after starting with a modified 650 SJ: $6980
Grand Total factoring in the starting cost of the ski ($1500): $8480
Total factoring in time and work: 100 Billion Dollars (if there was a Dr. Evil Smilie this is where he would go)

I came a little shy of my goal of building the ski for at or under the cost of a new superjet.........but it will be quite a bit more than a stock superjet so all and all it came out well financially :biggthumpup: and hopefully will be a good value ski for the $$.........BTW that total is what you will see at the Riot Ride, not including the Lamey PV cylinder for next season.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Motor is now fully assembled :arms: Pics will follow soon....just keepin the thread going........still no hull, painter wants anouther week :banghead: Just organizing stuff in one comprehensive list so you guys don't have to flip through pages.

Complete Motor Mods List

Block

-Jr. Magoo's FS Ported 61X cylinder (82.5mm bore)
-Wiesco forged pistons
-Ported 62T cases, epoxy filled and preclearanced for a Lamey cylinder (work by Jr. Magoos)
-ADA girdled Head w/ 33cc domes making 190psi on each cylinder
-New Hot Rods Crankshaft (Standard Stroke)
-All new seals, gaskets ect...

Intake

-Stock 44mm carbs (choke removed)
*Blasted and new epoxy coating applied by JSS
*Completly disassembled, cleaned, new seals and gaskets installed.
*JSS SS screws internal and external
*JSS Billit mixture knobs (high and low)
*PJS Billit throttle wheel
* Re-Jetted to Jr. Magoos Specs (110 M, 117.5 P, 2.0 n/s, 95g)
*Shafts properly shimmed to eliminate play
*Mounted to R&D manifold and custom cut linkage couple installed
-R&R Jet-tec reed spacer
-R&D intake manifold
-1st gen V-force reeds w/ carbon petals
-WPS intake adapters
-Prok flame arrestors and prefilters

Exhaust

-Factory B-pipe and Mod Chamber
-New water injection screws by PD
-Manifold port matched to cylinder and headpipe
-Water bypass kit by Protec (4mm pisser)
-Jetworks Flow Control Valve
-3mm restrictor to stinger
-Factor Pipe water box
-Modified Blowsion Front Exhaust Outlet

Electrical

-Lightened stock 6m6 flywheel (pro-tec)
-Stator rebuilt by JSS
-JSS SS laser cut stator washers
-Stock timing
-MSD Enhancer
-JSS modified OEM coil w/ new wires, MSD boots and retainers

Pump and Handling

-Blueprinted Pump vein section
-13/17 Solas COncord Impeller
-Wamiltons Stubby Cone
-Bored reduction nozzel to 83.75mm
-Worx 201 intake grate
-Carbon 24/7 D-cut ride plate
-Modified Pro-tec trim system w/ extended steering nozzel
-New midshaft, bearing housing and bearings
-Riva Yamaha Billit couplers and new dampner
-All new OEM motor mounts
-Dual Cooling

Hull mods will be listed later..............

[Freestyleriverrat]

Pump pics.......

[Freestyleriverrat]

I am slowly but surly going to post pics and descriptions (before assembly) of the mods to the hull. It is nothing secret or anything but it is just stuff that maybe a person that rides a square often would notice and others may not. This way for those of you that come to the Riot Ride you will know what all is done to the boat.

Hull Mods..............Footholds

The X-holds by Waterdawg Kustoms...................what can I say, these thing are bad ass :woot: . Exactly what I was looking for in a foot hold but time will tell how I like them on the water. I have run 24/7 holds and those were nice but my feet were in at an angle which I did not really like and you could not really lock you anckles in them. I ran Cylones last year and it did not wrap around the top of my foot that well. I achually had to remove turf just to get my foot in there, even then it was tight......Malone must be a small guy. I wear size 10 1/2 and shoes when I ride so I needed something larger and these hold are definatly that. Totally wraps around my foot and locks my anckles in there as well so my feet are not at an weird angle. Once turf and foam is on there they will be perfect!!! Very pleased thus far.

:biggthumpup: :biggthumpup: :biggthumpup: :biggthumpup: :biggthumpup:

[2nd nature]

I hear you man, I tried to see if I could paint around the turf but it was just not happening. I am just trying to get things organized so when I get the hull back I can start assembling stuff. I am still waiting on allot of parts and amhelping Mack on his ski while mine is in paint. I have to order turf as well but am not set on what turf to get. I need to go ahead and order that along with some foam so I can wrap this thing up and ride. So much to do, so little time and money is now getting tight. I'll send you a pic when it gets back from the painter.

i feel you on time and money.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Hull Mods..................Rear Tray Clearancing

Here you can see where the rear of the ski was clearanced for the trim system. Looks good too, breaks up the straight lines of the boat and gives a more aggressive look IMO.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Ski did not quite make the build off but I took it to Lanier to wrench on and show off what I had to date..........................More pics..........

[Freestyleriverrat]

more

[Freestyleriverrat]

more............

[Freestyleriverrat]

More pics will follow after I turf the ski.

Hull Mods

27/7 carbon d-cut ride plate
Waterdawg X-holds
XFT Carbon/Kevlar pole
Prototype XFT squarnose bracket (still making modifications)
XFT carbon battery tray and cart style gas tank
Modfied stock hood
Reinforced nose with 3 layers of cloth: filled in the voids first with foam, flipped the hull over and glassed the nose area and pole mounting area.
XFT steering system
XFT bars
Clearanced the rear lip to accomidate the trim system
Trimmed the nose of the ski for a more streamed lined appearance
X-jet inspired rail extension
dual 24/7 scuppers out the back
dual cooling
reinforced sides of ski
1 layer of carbon/kevlar hybrid cloth under tank and battery (for looks)

[Freestyleriverrat]

After having some carb issues I finally got the ski fired up for the first time last night. Sounds great! That factory pipe water box and single front exhaust is really not that loud, has a nice deep tone to the exhaust.......kind of like a flowmaster.

I still have an issue with my coupler and midshaft so that will have to be redone at a machine shop before it hits the water.

[Big Kahuna]

So, what was the problem with the carbs?

[jetskiking]

How many gallons do those shifter cart tanks hold?

[Freestyleriverrat]

So, what was the problem with the carbs?

Pop off's were sticking open for some reason. Darin blew into the tank and gas shot out through the carbs like I had nothing in there? We tested them and all appears to be OK now. Once I run it on the water hopefully everything will pan out and loosen up. JSS may have put some kind of lube in there or something that dried up and made them stick..........I don't know. Odd off the wall problem to have? :rolleyes:

[Freestyleriverrat]

How many gallons do those shifter cart tanks hold?

2.5 gallons, roughly 1/2 what the stock tank holds.

[eschberg]

I think this build thread is sticky worthy... lots of detail and information on each phase of building. Ski turned out looking great man.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Since this Bracket is a prototye I am making mods to it and Sergio is sending me those new parts so we can get it right. One modification I am making is dropping the pole pivot point down 4mm. That should bring that pole down a hair and get it to sit even nicer than it does right now.

I had allot of guys at Lanier comment on how nice the XFT pole looks on the squarenose SJ. I totally agree!!! :biggthumpup: It does not look like a retro fitted pole but rather looks like it was made specifically for the squarenose SJ hull. Below is a side by side compariosn showning both poles and a before and after pic of the build.

[accbr]

Paint job looks really good. I like the way you painted the handlepole area on the hood black. Nice touch. Motor looks awesome too.

[Freestyleriverrat]

So, what was the problem with the carbs?

I have been trying to fire it up again and now it is acting like the carbs are not getting fuel? Here we go again............if you dump a little fuel in there it will fire right up but then die once that runs out. :banghead: :banghead:

[unclehulka13]

looks nice.

I've heard a few cases of that tank losing pressure. Might wanna keep an eye on that.

[Freestyleriverrat]

looks nice.

I've heard a few cases of that tank losing pressure. Might wanna keep an eye on that.

Seems to be pressurizing fine. I have not heard that one but thanks for the heads up.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Started on turf today. :biggthumpup: The Flat black and the grooved white look better than I thought they would. Man that stuff is going to be a PIA to keep clean. :biggrin: I am going to redo the nose, there is to much of a gap around the nose peice.

[Mile9c1]

Are those Yamaha 760 carbs? You should take them off and measure the popoff. Is the idle set too low? look inside and check for a gap around the plate (just a small one). Sometimes they won't run with the idle down to low, especially if the carbs are empty to start with. Has it been in the water yet?

[Freestyleriverrat]

Are those Yamaha 760 carbs? You should take them off and measure the popoff. Is the idle set too low? look inside and check for a gap around the plate (just a small one). Sometimes they won't run with the idle down to low, especially if the carbs are empty to start with. Has it been in the water yet?

No, They came off a yamaha 701 motor. The pop off on both carbs is at 24psi I beleive......or something very close to that.......I checked on Sunday and they were both good, just stuck open initally. I have to send my midshaft coupler out to be retapped, once I reinstall that I will take it on a water test and break the motor in.

[Mile9c1]

Oh, so they're non-modified Mikuni 44's.

[freestylegeek]

That nose looks great!
I can't wait to see what generation II will look like.

When if comes to white turf, I think the best thing to keep it clean is Westly's Bleach White.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Oh, so they're non-modified Mikuni 44's.

They only have the choke's removed and are jetted to Pauls spec for that particular set up.

[Freestyleriverrat]

That nose looks great!
.

Thanks, It looks like a different boat when you modify the nose and round it all off.

[freestylegeek]

They only have the choke's removed and are jetted to Pauls spec for that particular set up.

Have you tried turning the low-speed screws all the way out (2+ turns)?
I had the same problem with mine, and that cured it (I guess I need bigger low speed jets, huh? LOL!)

[Freestyleriverrat]

Have you tried turning the low-speed screws all the way out (2+ turns)?
I had the same problem with mine, and that cured it (I guess I need bigger low speed jets, huh? LOL!)

I haven't really been working on the carbs today. I'll do the tuning when I get the midshaft hooked up and I can get some water in the motor. Plus I don't like the spring that in on the throttle linkage from JSS........for lack of a better word it is crap! It does not even have enough tension to close the carbs all the way :rolleyes: So I am going to order and OEM spring or have John send me one.

I have been turfing all freaking day and still have to put turf in the tray and on the rails. I will do that anouther day. Those Waterdawg X-hold are awesome. If anyone wants to comfortably run a 25mm under pad you might want to check out these X-holds. I am running a 8mm on the top of the hold and on the bottom plus turf. Makes my foot nice and snug when I wear shoes. I also added a little "jump bump" as I like to call it. :biggrin:

[SuperJETT]

Looking good Hunter, very nice.

Let's ride!!!

[Mile9c1]

I Those Waterdawg X-hold are awesome.

How'd you get 'em???

[Freestyleriverrat]

How'd you get 'em???

I jacked them off an X-jet :haha: :haha: Just kidding :sneaky: I called Jeff and ordered some.

[unclehulka13]

how long did they take to get? :haha:

[Mile9c1]

Oh, I forgot to mention, I don't think you need any tank pressure. I rode a whole season on a squarenose w/o that check valve on the tank.

[Freestyleriverrat]

how long did they take to get? :haha:

Like 3 weeks or so......but they were comming form OR and he had to make them. He typically does not stock stuff and it is made to order. I think Billit items he goes ahead and makes a batch but the composit things is made to order. Pretty much all new parts on my boat were one off custom stuff............my XFT pole and chin pad even has my name embedded in it as well as my order number. Now that is custom :biggrin: I also had to wait about 2.5 -3 months for the XFT parts. As with anything you get from Jeff or Sergio just be patient.............it is made when you order and sometimes they have allot of orders to fill.

When I ordered my XFT stuff Sergio even told me in advance that he was busy working on new designs and other projects and it may take a bit to get complete.......Jeff does the same thing.....if it will take a while he will tell you.

It was worth the wait though, both the pole and the X-holds got allot of looks throughout the weekend.....especially the pole........guys were loving that carbon/kevlar construction.

[Freestyleriverrat]

More turf pics.....still not done. Sanded the foam and started laying the tray tonight. Still have some trimming to do. I did not have enough white turf to run the entire length of the tray so I had to improvise and do a small section in the rear out of the solid black. Turn out looking good.

By doing to footholds like that with the white I was able to cover the entire foothold with one piece of white and the enitre side w/ only one piece of black so it is really clean looking w/o cuts for extreme bends.

[Big Kahuna]

Turf looks great Hunter........ I dont have the patients for that.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Pro-tec trim system.

Here is a pic of how I modded the pro-tec trim system. Pretty straight forward. Keep trimming up until it hit something, them grind it or bend it. I can probably get anouther 1/8in of throw but I feel it is adequate where it is. It is also sporting a 20mm extended nozzle which IMO aids in the control/redirection of the water coming out of the pump..........same principal as a longer barrel on a rifle. For ease of opperation I went to the hardware store and got a couple of springs with different tensions, that will either increase or decrease the amount of force needed to activate it. The system came with a thick spring that would wear your forearm out when you pulled it. It is tight enough that the system recoils nicely, it does not wear you out, you don't have to fight it and it takes all the slop out of the system.

I think I paid 180.00 for the whole system used. Allot cheaper than a new one or a $1200 freestyle trim system........that is just nuts :bigeyes:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Progress is still at a grinding hault b/c of anouther midshaft problem. Sent it back out to be properly spaced...............it was pressed in 10mm more that what it should have been causing the situtation you see below. The proper spacing is 20mm sticking out the back. :banghead: I probably could have done it myself but his is the secong problem I have had with this part so I sent it back b/c of the principal of it. Paul at Jr. Magoos fixed the thread problem for me.......THANK big time........but I'm letting the other place fix their measuring mistake.

I have not been really working on it lately but I am finishing turfing the rails tonight. I got side tracked with redoing the bunks on my trailer and need to finish mounting the new fenders and tire holder. Got the dash pad on and it looks killer. A little different look to go along with the rounded shapes and mis-matched turf colors/textures.

[djkorn1]

Hunter,

That ski is looking BADASS! Too bad it wasn't done in time for the buildoff. It is definately worthy! :hail: Maybe custom of the Month for July?!?!?:woot:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Hunter,

That ski is looking BADASS! Too bad it wasn't done in time for the buildoff. It is definately worthy! :hail: Maybe custom of the Month for July?!?!?:woot:

Yeah, it would have been nice to have a squarenose in the buildoff. But continuous problems and the amount of time this build needed just did not permit that. O-well........it will be running (in the water) this week and I am planning on attending the Rock n Ride so you can test it out fo-sure.

[Freestyleriverrat]

DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :arms: :arms: Turf is 100% done and I never want to do it again. Wait, I'm doing my buddies boat next week............crap :haha:

[eschberg]

Looks awesome man. Great job on the whole build.

[Mile9c1]

Nice job!

Did you get it running right yet?

[Freestyleriverrat]

Nice job!

Did you get it running right yet?

It's running but I am waiting on my midshaft so I can get in the water, break in and tune. Lookin like tuesday if I get the midshaft :arms: I am pumped, this is like a complely new ski. 100% different from what i started with. Can't wait to feel some power in this hull. That Magoo 701 should run well.............sounds good :haha:

[djkorn1]

Time for some Brappin!!!

[Freestyleriverrat]

Time for some Brappin!!!
With the just front exhaust it sounds bad ass. It sounds like it has a lope to it like a dragster with a high lift cam............so when she fires it is more like Lup Lup Lup...............BRAPPPPP :haha:

[FL-cracker]

^^^^^^Cool! Came out awsome man! Nice job.

[Mark44]

Looks real nice, lets see some engine pics and specs.

Mark44

[Freestyleriverrat]

Looks real nice, lets see some engine pics and specs.

Mark44

scroll back a couple of pages and you'll see all that info

[Mark44]

scroll back a couple of pages and you'll see all that info


Duuuu yes sorry, it was early.

Mark44

[sjweber]

who did the shaft?
Louisville yamaha said he would do it for me if I ordered the bearings and stuff. the bearings are $52.00 and a replacement housing with the bearings in it is $78.00

[djkorn1]

How does she run?

[Freestyleriverrat]

How does she run?

Crappy at the moment :woot: I need to rejet the carbs but it is hard to guage stuff when you are not taking it over 1/3 throttle (still in the process of breaking it in). It hits hard though! When I have it on the trailer (back of the ski tied down to keep it loaded) and blip the throttle it moves my Jeep, so I know it has some power:arms: Once it is dialed it I am sure I will be happy.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Unfortunatly my freinds boat hydrolocked so he let me borrow his 48mm full specrum carbs........that totally made the ski a beast (compared to the 650 motor last season). So clean and responsive. Hull turned our better than I expected. I spent a couple of hours dialing in the hood to make it fit really snug and it is paying off. Latch the hood down and you can feel the OEM seal crush. Meaured the hood hook vey tight so the front of the hood cannot move side to side (same on other side). Does not take on much water with the modified hood, does not bogg under the water. I had a couple of deep subs the other day and it felt great and it did not bogg. I took it easy comming out of it but motor felt great. Drains water fast as well.

Easy to throw around in the air and hooks up well. That ride plate is great. the ski is both loose on the rear end and turns on a dime with the 20mm extended nozzel and XFt steering stsyem.

Even with dual 48mm carbs it sips the gas. My buddy and I must have been out on the water for about 45minutes. We jsut took my ski and switched off and burned about 3/4 of the tank (about 2 gallons in the XFT tank). Not good for long distance riding but great for river riding like we do. I typically run about 30 minutes to an hour when I go to the river.

[Freestyleriverrat]

The motor really likes the 48mm carbs so I picked some up from Tricky1. 48mm Riva Power bomb carbs. Very comprable to the full spectrums.

[IceRocket1286]

hey dude, your trim system. I have the same brackets that mount to the pump mounts. You have them on the wrong side, which is why ur spring is kinda crooked. BUT, theres also another piece to that which holds the cable in place. If it works, its fine, but just a heads up, but the ski is KICK ASS dude!

[Freestyleriverrat]

hey dude, your trim system. I have the same brackets that mount to the pump mounts. You have them on the wrong side

Good eye, I'll switch it next time I have the pump off. It works smoothly right now.

[Freestyleriverrat]

I the project just keeps getting better and better. After using my friends 46? mm full spec carbs for a week I had to step it up a notch. They just hit cleaner and harder than my OEM 44's. Tricky1 hooked me up with this nice set of Riva power bomb's, similar to the full specs. I clearenced my R&D manifold to accept the new carbs and I got rid of allot of those thich casting/slag marks that were left on them. The inside of the intake was roughed up with a 80 grit sanding wheel to aid in keeping the fuel atomized. I was surprised at how much better that makes the tract feel.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Here is a side by side shot of the 44's vs the Riva 48's. As you can see they are not only larger but have completly different venturi's and atomizers.

[sjweber]

so how does it ride now. it was awsome before.

[Freestyleriverrat]

so how does it ride now. it was awsome before.

still waiting on my fuel pump. It will be here tomorrow :woot: I think it rode like crap the day we all went out. It started to improve as I made adjustments throughout the day but it was still not all there like it was with the full specs on it. I dialed the 44's in last week and it was hitting hard but could still be cleaned up a bit. We will see how the Riva's fair, I'll be tuning those this weekend.

[SuperJETT]

Hrm, I have a fuel pump, hardly used too...

[Freestyleriverrat]

Hrm, I have a fuel pump, hardly used too...

Cool, I just picked one up that was freshly rebuilt. $25 was not a bad deal. If the weather holds off I am going to try and hit the water late tomorrow afternoon.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Finally :woot: Got the ski running great. After different carb issues and testing a couple of different setups the motor really came alive with the dialed in Riva's.

I have to take this opprotunity to give huge props to Paul at Jr. Magoo's. His work on porting the cases and cylinders is really shining now and I am blown away with the performance of the ski. It is above and beyond what I was expecting. The motor is lovin the 48's and pulls hard through all rpms. Very nice low end and arm ripping top end as well.

[FL-cracker]

good deal.....sounds like a bad arse motor!

[squid]

I jumped you RiverRats boat last night and WOW. That boat is so strong and clean:arms: Great Job RiverRat:woot: When can you help me tune up my boat???:hail:

[Freestyleriverrat]

I am going to be down the next week or so I can do whole list of small issues......nothing major just fixing things, modifying parts, waiting on some gaskets ect.. Guess we will just have to work on your boat for the next week. :woot: I will need to get my riding fix somehow.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Had an issue the other day. I fould a plug in the front cylinder and when I was across the river and when I got back to shore the case on the front cylinder was full of gas. Tore the motor down to see if there were any issues, I thought I bent a rod but it was just rich as hell and running on one cylinder. Since I was going to be down anyway for other maintance issues and had to wait for some parts to get here, I went ahead and ordered some 28cc domes for my lamey cylinder. Luckily when I had Paul do my motor I had him do all the clearenceing work for the cylinder so it just drops right on top of the cases.

I am going to start working on the manifold and head pipe to clear the PV's. I am going to take my time with it and try and make it look as original as possible.......cross your fingers :biggrin:

I has some scuff amrks on my 701 culinder, probably from when I first had those carb issues and I kept trying to get the motor to fire. Ski ran great until I fouled that plug. The 701 cylinder ran great but I just want to see how this Lamey runs before winter. I know I would be itching all winter if I don't do test it while the weather is good.

Lamey PV Specs

Going on and set up for Standard Stroke Crank
Ported by RPM Racing for low to mid power
Current 85.5mm bore so she is pretty much maxed out
28cc domes in ADA head

[Freestyleriverrat]

Before Pics of the pipe mods.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Had an issue the other day. I fould a plug in the front cylinder and when I was across the river and when I got back to shore the case on the front cylinder was full of gas. Tore the motor down to see if there were any issues, I thought I bent a rod but it was just rich as hell and running on one cylinder.


Found the culpret...........the top of the flame arrestor came off and dropped down, completly choking the carb and corrosponding front cylinder. :banghead: Did not see that b/c the prefilters.

[sjweber]

:hail: to the superjet gods. I'm glad that was all it was. now, What caused it and how to prevent it from ever happening again. That is the question. haha

[Freestyleriverrat]

It's the Riva's.......the hit so hard they just sucked it right down :haha:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Exhaust Manifold Notes

Here are some shots of the exhaust manifold mods to clear the PV's. A couple of things I would like to point out while doing this modification:

1) Take your time to fit them carefully, you can always take more material off, not so easy to put it back on.
2) Take into account the thickness of the gasket you are using, if you go by just how it sits flish against the cylinder you may be taking off more material than you need too.
3) Check to make sure the ports on the cylinder and manifold are matched. I had to take a little off the top and 2 corners of my manifold to match the size of te exhaust port on the Lamey.
4) Note that there is more material on the flange are of the manifold where the head pipe bolts to. Below the flang that material is not solid but is thin. Mainly concentrate on the thick flange and then go from there. I used a 5in grinding wheel at a 90 degree angle to get the general shap of the notches. Then I went through with a 60 grit sanding bit, followed by a 120 grit sanding wheel.
5) Try and maintain as much gasket surface area as possible on the flange to ensure proper sealing of the head pipe and manifold.

[Freestyleriverrat]

I did not want to do this but in order to make it right I have to bust apart the cases and match the cylinder to the cases. Those transfer ports are larger than meets the eye when compared to the 701 cylinder. Below are some pics after I used to old gasket as a template to get an idea of how much work needed to be done. If I just threw the cylinder on the cases the motor would be significanly choked at the transfer ports.

*Pics: Matched gasket to lamey shown on cases, matched gasket shown on 701 cylinder, gasket shown on Lamey

[freestylegeek]

I did not want to do this but in order to make it right I have to bust apart the cases and match the cylinder to the cases. ...

If you haven't split the cases yet, you don't have to do it.
Paul has DYNO'd this mod, and has seen no significant HP increase.
Mine are not matched, and niether are Parrdaddy's, smitty's, steve802cc, etc...

Something to think about. :frown:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Really?? That is definatly something to think about :bigeyes: So yours pretty much look like mine? I have not split the cases yet......if I don't have to it just saves me time and work.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Head pipe: Front Cylinder

Once the manifold cleared the PV comfortably I just bolted the manifold to the head pipe and used a marker to trace a line on the bottom of the head pipe to give me a rough idea of where to start grinding. I used a 5in cut off wheel to gring away the big sections and used a 80 grit sanding bit followed by a 120 grit wheel. Took my time and was constantly checking and rechecking the fit. Used a sharpie to indicate where the valve hit, and did it a section at a time until the front PV cleared. I wante dto take my time on grinding b/c I want a smooth looking pipe.

I can already tell the rear PV is going to be a pain and take twice as long. I will try and document that one well b/c I will be cutting into the water jacket which can be a little shakey for some guys (like myself). Paul charges $450 for this mod and it is worth every penny!!!!! I may have him weld my water jacket up when his shop is up and running.

[sflsurfrider]

looking good, dude!

taking your time on that mod is the only way to do it right. once its all done, you can double up the head pipe gasket for some added clearance if necessary.

[Freestyleriverrat]

looking good, dude!

taking your time on that mod is the only way to do it right. once its all done, you can double up the head pipe gasket for some added clearance if necessary.

Thanks. Good idea on the gasket. I will look into that.

[freestylegeek]

Really?? That is definatly something to think about :bigeyes: So yours pretty much look like mine? I have not split the cases yet......if I don't have to it just saves me time and work.

Yup, looks just like yours.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Head Pipe Mod: Rear Cylinder

For the most part I did 75% of material removal with a angle grinder and grinding wheel. The metal on the pipe is about a 1/4 in thick so it takes a while. Just keep checking a rechecking to see when you start breaking through. I am not done grinding on it to make it clear the PV but you get the idea. I am out of dremel bits so I am calling it a night :beerchug: I also am cleaning the pipe up and making the head pipe match the manifold to add a factory look to the mod. Hopefully when it is all done you will not be able to tell that a big a$$ grinder went to town on it.

[Freestyleriverrat]

one more.........

[pontoonkiller]

the power valves are from a seadoo but is it the 951 or 787

[pontoonkiller]

rat i'm not going to put my motor together till the winter so put the 5mil stroker in the lamey lets see what it will do

[Freestyleriverrat]

the power valves are from a seadoo but is it the 951 or 787

Dude..........you the Sea Doo mechanic you tell me :tomato: I am not sure what sea doo valves they are.......anyone? I am going to go ahead and rebuild them so that is good info to know.

rat i'm not going to put my motor together till the winter so put the 5mil stroker in the lamey lets see what it will do

I already stole that shiz and it's in my boat now :biggthumpup: :haha: JK
:noevil:

[pontoonkiller]

i think that they are from a 951 do they seal with a gasket or an o-ring please take them off the cylinders and post some pics and i can tell you

[Freestyleriverrat]

i think that they are from a 951 do they seal with a gasket or an o-ring please take them off the cylinders and post some pics and i can tell you

Dude just come over :biggrin: the valves are not sea doo's valves but the bellows are.....out of a 785 http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=5859

[Freestyleriverrat]

For clearencing the PV's ended up having to clearence the PV cover itself. No big deal and it was something I was hoping to aviod doing but the adjuster was hittting the pipe, even with the waterjacket gone. Fits perfect now :Banane01: I am going to see if my buddy can weld it tomorrow.

Still in the process of checking tolerences, matching gaskets, making gaskets, checking fit and rejetting the carbs. More pics of the pipe will follow after it is welded and repainted.

[Freestyleriverrat]

I am getting ready to bust the cases apart and match the cylinder to the cases. As you can see in the pic there is a quite significant overlap that will IMO be a limiting factor on the setup and will not allow me to take full advantage of the improved/extra tranferports that the cylinder has. I will hopefully have the cases back togather later tonight. Pipe gets welded back tomorrow :biggthumpup: then all I have to do is assembly.

[Freestyleriverrat]

still working on them and I am about 3/4 complete in this pic......off to HD to get more sanding bits :biggrin: Feeling much better now that the ports are not being obstructed by the cases.

[yamahammer]

Great thread. Thanks for detailed description and pics. Should kick enough ass to make all the time and effort worth it. :beerchug:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Couple more misc shot. I widened the porting on the cases to accomidate the increased angle that air will have to flow up into the transfer ports. This, in theroy should give the air a more direct shot to the ports directly above and off to the side of the reed cages. I am getting more anxious to get this thing on the water. It is just larger everywhere and I hope it is not a race ported lamey cylinder.....we will see. My buddy that was going to weld my pipe backed out so I may have to send it off to be welded. Gives me more time to make thing as perfect as possible I guess :rolleyes:

Took the time to clean the PV's really well. No more carbon build up on those.

[Freestyleriverrat]

No more zip ties to hold my fuel pump in place. made this bracket out of 6 layers of matt cloth and 1 layer of carbon. It is the first part I have made and I think it looks good considering. Need to clean the edges up a little but I am happy with it. Only took about 5 minutes to lay up.

[sjweber]

nice job. how are things going? I remounted the bilges in my ski and made a switch for them. keep you're fingers crossed.
I need to make some mounting plates for some of my goodies.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Things are going good. I still need to have my pipe rewelded before I can start the motor. My dremel finally crapped out on me and I still have a little work left on the cases, but once I finish that and do a through wash down of all parts I can start the reassembly process. I have been slacking b/c the pipe. I have all the gaskets for the assembly, just need to finish it up.

Got my used TL system today and am in the process of rewiring it for a more sanatary appearence. I put it in the hull to see how everything would route and it was a mess. I am also mounting the coil and MSD box on insulated rubber mounts for vibration dampening. The TL will go in after I get the motor tuned and feel comfortable with adding more response. I am going to have to learn how to ride all over agian.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Weighed the TL flywheel and the 61x flywheel that was lightened by Pro-tec.

The lightened flywheel weighed 3.28lbs or 1490g. The MSD TL flywheel weighed in at 1.75lbs or 795g. That is a 53% reduction in rotational mass over the lightend stock flywheel. Anouther thing I noticed was that the bulk of the weight on the stock flywheel was on the outside where the magnets are located (duhhhh). In contrast, the bulkof the MSD's weight is on the center of the flywheel. This also has a performance advantage over the stock unit by centering the bulk of the weight.

[Freestyleriverrat]

I am taking MattE's advice as well as SuperJETT's on insulating the wires w/ 5200 for vibration resistance. I also used 2 sleeves of shrink wrap on the wires, zip tied them to the stator plate and 5200 all the way around them. We will see how it does. I did not crack the plastic off and epoxy it but if this one craps out I will defiantly try it. I may let my buddy use this set up for a little bit. We will see Squid......no promises yet :friday:

[cookerq62]

Who lightened your stock flywheel???

[Freestyleriverrat]

Who lightened your stock flywheel???

Pro-tec Performance

[Freestyleriverrat]

Like always I cannot leave anything alone. The mounting plate for my TL system was made out of like 1/2in thick aluminum plate, so I decided to shedd a little weight off it. Looks pretty cool too but I did it to lighten it up a little which it did. It may not look like much but I cleaned up all the shavings and have a pile that is almost a foot tall of aluminum coils. Whatever...............

Anyway, since my build page is still dragging on might as well document how I seal the TL system. Ordered all my stuff today and will post pics of how I did it, how I routed the lines and how I initally set up the system. So that will follow sometime after the lamey install.

Here is the basic layout of how the system is mounted. It will be much cleaner when done. Wires are being routed in the front b/c I think it gives the plate a more mechanical look. Still have to drill and tap spots for plastic retainer rings to route wires. Put the assembly in place to mock it up and make sure everything cleared.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Assembled the motor and it is nice and smooth :biggthumpup: I spent allot of time on the cases. All matched for the lamey cylinder's transfer ports. I used 80 grit sanding bits, 120 sanding wheel to smooth out transitions and then a grinding wheel on a air grinder to rough the surface up again for better fuel atomization. Then the cases soaked in warm soapy water and scrubbed with a SOS pad to remove burrs and old gasket/sealent material. Then rinsed with warm water and hit with a med pressure water jet to clean to wash off residue and any thing left behind.

Cleaned the cylinders in soapy water as well, rinsed and oil was reapplied to the cylinders to prevent rust. Blaaa blaa blaaaaa.........more pics

[Freestyleriverrat]

Got the pipe back and the guy did a killer job. Only charged me $40 to weld it up so the enire mod cost me about $60 and a allot of time. I did not spen that much time cleaning the weld up. I am going to have it jet hot coated in the winter and will continue to take the time to shape the metal at that time. Polished the inside of the manifold and opened the exhaust (manifold and head pipe ports) up from 43mm to 46mm.

Getting very close to becomming a BRAAPAHOLIC for the rest of the season :woot:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Note on installing PV's and manifold

This took a little brain power from me tonight. I could not get the Pv's on when the manifold was bolted down. If you just put the PV's on you cannot access the 2 bolt in between the PV's (upper middle manifold bolts). I finally got them on by taking the PV's out of the housing, Install the manifold, then sliding the housing on over the PV's, screwing the cap on and attaching the bellows. Everything is a tight fit and needs to be installed in a particular order but one it in on it looks good. motor is in the hull now and that will do it for today. :Banane01:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Took the ski out for the first time tonight. WOW! Lamey's rock. Totally different ski. Very controllable powerwise, smooth powerband and lets not forget the hit. It yanks!! I was really light on it tonight b/c I want to tune and feel everything out but it is just all around better. Ski even bites the water better, launches easily off a take off wake and that power/torque just makes the ski feel lighter..........the back end of the ski will just be thrown in whatever direction is nozzel is pointing it in. Pretty sweet :bigeyes: I need to tune it up more and get more acclimated to the ski before I can start having fun. :biggthumpup:

[Mile9c1]

Sweet deal, you made it a quick project! I was getting worried you'd never ride again :biggthumpup:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Sweet deal, you made it a quick project! I was getting worried you'd never ride again :biggthumpup:

Hopefully no more tear downs this season. :fingersx: I don't even know if I want the TL on there this season, I just want to ride.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Motor was close to broken in. Took it for a couple of 3/4 throttle runs.............AHHHHHHHH. This thing screams!!!!! :bigeyes: :bigeyes: Insane speed. Too much top speed for my freestylin arse. Still need to clean up the low end a little........I don't think the motor is ported, if it is I would say it is mid to top end power but it did not look ported to me. Powerwise, there is going to be a learning curve for several weeks.

[freestylegeek]

...I don't think the motor is ported...

I saw the inside of that thing - it's ported.
Unported Lamey's come with almost as much mis-match as an OEM cylinder.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Since I busted my head I am keeping it out of the ohio river until I get my stitches out. Met my buddy Mack down there (aka: squid on x-h2o.com) and he really liked the boat. You can't really tell the power in the video b/c he is just blipping the throttle. This is one of his first rolls on it, he was getting more height on each one he did. I have anouther video where you can hear the ski hooking up and just taking off......but I accidentaly deleted it whiel previewing pics. I am going to ride with my buddy Pat tomorrow.....maybe I can get a vid of a little race between his ported 650 vs the lamey vs Mack's ported 701 w/ full specs.

http://www.superjett.com/albums/videos/New%20stuff/MackRoll_RatsBoat.wmv

[Superjeff]

where on ohio river are u??

[Freestyleriverrat]

where on ohio river are u??

Cox Park in Louisville, Ky

[squid]

Man O'man that is one sweet ski:Banane01: Riverrat has done an awesome job on this ski. It makes huge power and is the best BR ski I have ever been on. Layme is the way to go and the power is insane! Nice job RiverRat and when can I take that monster out for anther ride? WOW:cheer: :woot:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Did a little more adjustment tonight and it cleaned up the lowend a little. Throw a nice nose stab w/ no effort. Just turn the bars, blipp the throttle and lofted in the air :biggthumpup:

[Freestyleriverrat]

when can I take that monster out for anther ride? WOW:cheer: :woot:

I thought you said you never wanted to ride that boat again b/c it was to depressing :haha: We still have TL to put on it, but that can wait until after FSF. I want to ride more Lamey boats to get an idea of how this one measures up. I am achually really comfortable with the power now.......that did not take as long as I thought it would.:haha:

[Freestyleriverrat]

1 more compiled vid of the night. You can see him get adjusted to the boat......he only rode for about 5min if that. He was going easy on the throttle and the only time you really hear the motor hook well is in that first turn.

http://superjett.com/albums/videos/New%20stuff/Lamey1_freestyleriverrat.wmv

[Freestyleriverrat]

got off my butt an installed the fuel pump bracket. W/ 3 rivot it is nice and tight. Quite surprising achually. I thought it would break :biggrin: JK:rolleyes: I think that 1 more addition concludes this project 100%. It better.....I have done 2 different motors this season :17:

[D Slicker]

Engine compartment looks KILLER.....

[Freestyleriverrat]

Project continues......... Sergio sent me some post that are cut down 5mm. Looks good but now the roundnose pole stop that is on the bracket limits the movement of the pole. Ditched that set up and am making some pole stops out of polyurathane bushing. That being said I have to so some more clearencing of the nose to clear the pole. No big woop. Now that I am doing a different pole stop configuration I can drop the pole even more........like 10mm more :bigeyes: So it will be nice and flush with the hood and a total of 15mm shorter than it was when you guys saw it at Lanier :biggthumpup:

[squid]

I rode the beast and wow!!!!! Hunter You now have the strongest ski on the river! Nice Job:hail: Once Eric is finished with you I bet you will have the best BR as well:Banane01:

[Freestyleriverrat]

I rode the beast and wow!!!!! Hunter You now have the strongest ski on the river! Nice Job:hail: Once Eric is finished with you I bet you will have the best BR as well:Banane01:

:puke: I have so many little things left to do to this boat it is not even funny. I hope to get my rolls down soon.......I am right there on the thresh hold.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Made some pole stops out of stainless carrage bolts and some polyurathane shock bushings. Perfect!!! Also added some lock washers to my pole bolts b/c they kep coming loose on me. Seems to work well. Adding a little teflon tape to the threads helps as well.

[sjweber]

nice job :biggthumpup: I used the stock roundnose pole bumper to stop mine. I like the shock bumpers better though. Great, another trip to the store. :banghead: haha That ski looks killer. I will have to pick you're brain this winter when I break into my motor.

[Freestyleriverrat]

nice job :biggthumpup: I used the stock roundnose pole bumper to stop mine. I like the shock bumpers better though. Great, another trip to the store. :banghead: haha That ski looks killer. I will have to pick you're brain this winter when I break into my motor.

The winter project bug is biting early :biggrin:

[Ollie Rastabean]

Cool idea on the stops. BUT. You might want to consider a limiting rope. You have a huge amoung of leverage there. COuld just rip the bracket out of the hull.

Limiting rope is cheap insurance.

-o

[Freestyleriverrat]

Cool idea on the stops. BUT. You might want to consider a limiting rope. You have a huge amoung of leverage there. COuld just rip the bracket out of the hull.

Limiting rope is cheap insurance.

-o


That pole will snap in half before the bracket gives way. It has a thick backing plate and the nose is fully reinforced w/ 3 layers of thick high build cloth.

[Ollie Rastabean]

That pole will snap in half before the bracket gives way. It has a thick backing plate and the nose is fully reinforced w/ 3 layers of thick high build cloth.

??? OK, How bout a limiting rope to save your pole then.

[2nd nature]

??? OK, How bout a limiting rope to save your pole then.

i agree

[Freestyleriverrat]

??? OK, How bout a limiting rope to save your pole then.

I am kind of trying this set up out for Sergio so if it snaps then we will find a way to make it better. I will ride hard and test to failure if need be.Once it is all dialed in and if Sergio releases it for the squarenose guys it will be a kick arse set up. :headbang: Xmetal poles are sweet as well but I just liked the looks of the XFT. Thus far I wish it had a metal pivot point on the pole to decrease the thickness and increase strength at the bases where it will contact the pole stops. I have had some nasty spills so far this year and have yet to fold it.

[2lick]

Hunters boat rocks :headbang:

He let me have the privige of loading it on his trailer last weekend.....

And in that trip form the beach to the trailer was amazing :biggrin:

no seriously I could tell it had so much power with my little braps in the no wake zone.....:bigeyes: :Banane01:

If only you had more gas man....:biggthumpup: I could have drained it for you

thanks for the help.... oh yeah ill work on that hand stand thing haha its hard:frown:

-NICK

[Freestyleriverrat]

Yeah, sorry I ran out of gas. I tried to have a little left over after my one on one with Malone but it was sputtering by the time I got back to shore.

That hand stand is fun to learn and is harder than it sounds. Works your arms out though.

[Legdragger]

I haven't kept up with this build but did see you weren't worried about breaking the pole. This might be a bummer though. Even if you reinforced as much as I did under the bracket I ran a rope anyway. I always try to be safe than sorry



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v436/racerboypete/t_rip_3.jpg

[Freestyleriverrat]

I have seen that pic and it is scarry to see:bigeyes: However, the reinforcement that I did ties the entire nose of the ski together. It spreads to the sides of the ski and goes up into the nose about where the stock fuel filler was located.

[Freestyleriverrat]

Project is still rolling along. Had to order a couple silicone hoses to install a x-metal water box. My buddy used it for a couple of weeks and seemed to like it. Although he was running dual exhaust and it was a bit obnoxious at times but got allot of great reactions from shore........."Man that thing has some power!!" :biggthumpup:

I am going to run this set up with front exhaust only :bigeyes: I don't think it will be that loud bit we will have to wait and find out. I weight my factory pipe water box and the x-metal. Just by switching it looks like I will save about 5 lbs off the nose of the boat.

The reason I think they are so loud if b/c of lack of back pressure when running a 2.0 front and 2.5 out back. I plugged the rear exhaust of my buddies ski and just out the front it did not sound that bad. I achually want some back pressure to refrain from the ski sputtering/popping all the time. Lopped off the t-fitting and am going to install a silicone elbow, then add an aluminum 2.5-2.0in reducer so it will meet up with blowsion exhuat outlet. The real limiting factor is the size of the outlet on the b-pipe (2.0in) and not the exhaust after the chamber. My factory pipe box has 2.0 in and out so the x-metal 2.5 in/out is quite a bit larger.

I took the turf off and am experimenting with the box a little..............there goes any warrenty :haha: Not telling you guys what I am doing yet. I will rewrap it in solid turf I have left over from my ski. The black hose is just there for reference but when I get the part for the box it will raise the elbow up above the water line of the ski.......which is important :biggrin:

[Freestyleriverrat]

Waiting on some hoses but decided to show off what I did thus far. Strategically placed dents to aid in scrambling the sound waves entering and traveing through the water box. Corvette guys did this back in the day when running staright side pipes, muff