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View Full Version : Unmolested 02 SJ.....For now.....


Endo
05-03-2007, 11:53 AM
Hi guys! Just recently joined your forums for some information sharing. I have been on a few ski forums in the past and must say you guys rock:headbang: The only problem now is I'm facing a complete info overload!!!! What to do!!! what to do!!!Where do I start!!!:hail:

I have a completely stock 02 SJ (other than a 500 gph bilge) that is just waiting for a little TLC.....and stock machines just aren't in my nature. I've owned it since new and have around 50 gallons thru it.

I ride on flat water (lakes in Northern Indiana) mostly and have some of the basics down. Such as tailstands, nose stabs, and the occasional sub. And of course running buoys. Most of these I learned on a highly modified 440 before the SJ but quit riding allot for various reasons. Got down to the point where I only had time for the occasional blast around the lake. But now it is time to play again!!!

I'd really like to further the ski's ability and my own....more towards freestyle that is. So I'm asking for peoples help on which direction to take. I have my ideas but it has been a long time since the days of the 440/550's so my knowledge of ski's may be a little behind:rolleyes:

Thanks ahead of time and am attaching a pic of the motor since I am guessing it has been a while since you guys have seen stock.:bigeyes:

Danny Kay
05-03-2007, 12:00 PM
Welcome back. Im fairly new too, i bought a fairly stock 01SJ a little while back. It came with footholds, and honestly I cant imagine what it would be with out them. That with a few pump mods and its a darn decent ski IMO. Personally, i would look into footholds as one of your first mods, but thats just me. Is there anything that feels wrong about your ski, beside too little power (always a problem)?

michael950
05-03-2007, 12:06 PM
...
I have a completely stock 02 SJ (other than a 500 gph bilge) that is just waiting for a little TLC.....and stock machines just aren't in my nature. I've owned it since new and have around 50 gallons thru it....




I'll buy it from you for $1000. :biggrin:

yamaslut
05-03-2007, 12:40 PM
Hi guys! Just recently joined your forums for some information sharing. I have been on a few ski forums in the past and must say you guys rock:headbang: The only problem now is I'm facing a complete info overload!!!! What to do!!! what to do!!!Where do I start!!!:hail:

I have a completely stock 02 SJ (other than a 500 gph bilge) that is just waiting for a little TLC.....and stock machines just aren't in my nature. I've owned it since new and have around 50 gallons thru it.

I ride on flat water (lakes in Northern Indiana) mostly and have some of the basics down. Such as tailstands, nose stabs, and the occasional sub. And of course running buoys. Most of these I learned on a highly modified 440 before the SJ but quit riding allot for various reasons. Got down to the point where I only had time for the occasional blast around the lake. But now it is time to play again!!!

I'd really like to further the ski's ability and my own....more towards freestyle that is. So I'm asking for peoples help on which direction to take. I have my ideas but it has been a long time since the days of the 440/550's so my knowledge of ski's may be a little behind:rolleyes:

Thanks ahead of time and am attaching a pic of the motor since I am guessing it has been a while since you guys have seen stock.:bigeyes:


in order of modification:

reinforce skis engine compartment and tray
worx 201 intake grate
skat trak 12/15 freeride swirl prop
cut your pole down to -4"
0 degree straight bars/X-metal steering
footholds
turf
Blowsion Tubby 2's (sponsons)
one way valve/scupper
dual cooling
Factory B Pipe
milled stock head
MSD ignition
porting (LPW)
lowered hood kit (tons of options) I am using the waterdawg hood, very well priced
more motor and hull upgradesIt's my belief that handling mods should always be done first before engine mods

yamanube
05-03-2007, 12:48 PM
Personally (especially for flatwater) I would say

-Impeller (absolute necessity!!)
-Intake grate
-Bilge pump(s)
-Footholds/turf
-Cut pole 2-3"
-0*bars and ODI grips
-Bpipe (or freeride dry)
-Aftermarket head/dual cooling
-MSD enhancer

That would be a great start and make you really like your boat!

Endo
05-03-2007, 12:52 PM
Danny Kay...The machine feels big to me and difficult to flip around...but then again compared to the 440/550's....what can you say. And as far as power I like the bottom end but would like more around the 1/4 to 1/2 mark. And don't even get me started on the stock pads!!! I am planning on turfing the tray but need to figure out footholds first.

And michael950....WOW that is tempting!!!...Let me think about it....:nono: Gonna have to say no to that one.:moon:

yamanube
05-03-2007, 12:53 PM
If you want some killer pow from 1/4-1/2 throttle get your self a dry pipe (factory type4 or riva freeride) they make killer mid range!

FLY6584
05-03-2007, 01:04 PM
I have posted this before, but I figured I would copy and paste it into your thread so you can see a good step by step break down for modding an SJ.:biggthumpup:

Honestly I think it's best to take it in stages kind of like Wamiltons steps he has on his website. I know they're kinda cheesy and his packages definitely are not the cheapest route, but I agree with his logic.

This is how I would do it.

Stage 1
-Worx 201 Intake Grate/JD Intake Grate
-Skat Swirl
-Stick with stock rideplate for now(D-cut later)
-0 Deg Bars

Stage 2
-Footholds/Turf
-Shorten Stock Handlepole
-Shortened Turn Plate and UMI Steering if you dont mind spending a little more
-Seal Stock Hood!!!
-Reinforce
-Hood Straps/Handlepole Limiting Strap

Stage 3
-Bpipe
-Girdled Head
-Carbon Tech Low Tension Reeds (Until you're ready to spend the big bucks on some really good reeds)

Stage 4
-Enhancer/Modified Stock CDI
-Lightened Flywheel

Stage 5
-Porting
-Bigger Carbs
-Better Reeds

Stage 6
-Aftermarket Hood
-Aftermarket Handlepole
-Scupper
-Tubbies


Right now I've completed stages 1-3, enhancer, and a few other things I have added along the way. So far I am very very happy with my setup. :Banane01: Now if you preferred more power before footholds/shortened handlepole then you can go for Stage 3 or at least a bpipe before you start on Stage 2. Personally I think Stage 2 should come first though because they are relatively cheap/free mods that require more time/labor on your part than anything else.

Now if you had unlimited amounts of money then go for it all. This plan is more for a person on a budget like I was when I was building up my sj.

Whats really cool about doing it that way is if you're someone like me who is relatively new to the sport and wrenching then you can do pretty much everything yourself up until Stage 5. When it comes to tuning the ski the package you have put together is such a common package that you can get a ton of help and guidance. I've learned so much in the past couple of months setting up my ski and definitely wouldn't have been able to do it without the X and some really helpful friends.

:hail: :hail: :hail: X-H20

By the time you are ready to get into Porting and bigger carbs you have a good understanding of the 701 and you'll be able to get the most out of and properly tune that new ported motor.

Good Luck:biggthumpup:

yamaslut
05-03-2007, 01:09 PM
I have posted this before, but I figured I would copy and paste it into your thread so you can see a good step by step break down for modding an SJ.:biggthumpup:

Honestly I think it's best to take it in stages kind of like Wamiltons steps he has on his website. I know they're kinda cheesy and his packages definitely are not the cheapest route, but I agree with his logic.

This is how I would do it.

Stage 1
-Worx 201 Intake Grate/JD Intake Grate
-Skat Swirl
-Stick with stock rideplate for now(D-cut later)
-0 Deg Bars

Stage 2
-Footholds/Turf
-Shorten Stock Handlepole
-Shortened Turn Plate and UMI Steering if you dont mind spending a little more
-Seal Stock Hood!!!

Stage 3
-Bpipe
-Girdled Head
-Carbon Tech Low Tension Reeds (Until you're ready to spend the big bucks on some really good reeds)

Stage 4
-Enhancer/Modified Stock CDI
-Lightened Flywheel

Stage 5
-Porting
-Bigger Carbs
-Better Reeds

Stage 6
-Aftermarket Hood
-Aftermarket Handlepole
-Scupper
-Tubbies


Right now I've completed stages 1-3, enhancer, and a few other things I have added along the way. So far I am very very happy with my setup. :Banane01: Now if you preferred more power before footholds/shortened handlepole then you can go for Stage 3 or at least a bpipe before you start on Stage 2. Personally I think Stage 2 should come first though because they are relatively cheap/free mods that require more time/labor on your part than anything else.

Now if you had unlimited amounts of money then go for it all. This plan is more for a person on a budget like I was when I was building up my sj.

Whats really cool about doing it that way is if you're someone like me who is relatively new to the sport and wrenching then you can do pretty much everything yourself up until Stage 5. When it comes to tuning the ski the package you have put together is such a common package that you can get a ton of help and guidance. I've learned so much in the past couple of months setting up my ski and definitely wouldn't have been able to do it without the X and some really helpful friends.

:hail: :hail: :hail: X-H20

By the time you are ready to get into Porting and bigger carbs you have a good understanding of the 701 and you'll be able to get the most out of and properly tune that new ported motor.

Good Luck:biggthumpup:

I like your list, very well put together....

drodabaugh
05-03-2007, 01:27 PM
I ride on flat water (lakes in Northern Indiana) mostly and have some of the basics down.

Whoa! Somebody in Northern Indiana! Very RARE on this forum. I'm in Elkhart, used to have a cottage an Wawasee growing up. I'm trying to get ahold of a freestyle modded roundnose if you know anybody that is selling.

I'll be out in your area some this season. I have five skis (three running) and a triple trailer and looking for any opportunity to learn more about freestyle!

There is tons of info on here that has helped me avoid many pitfalls!

michael950
05-03-2007, 01:28 PM
I have posted this before, but I figured I would copy and paste it into your thread so you can see a good step by step break down for modding an SJ.:biggthumpup:

Honestly I think it's best to take it in stages kind of like Wamiltons steps he has on his website. I know they're kinda cheesy and his packages definitely are not the cheapest route, but I agree with his logic.

This is how I would do it.

Stage 1
-Worx 201 Intake Grate/JD Intake Grate
-Skat Swirl
-Stick with stock rideplate for now(D-cut later)
-0 Deg Bars

Stage 2
-Footholds/Turf
-Shorten Stock Handlepole
-Shortened Turn Plate and UMI Steering if you dont mind spending a little more
-Seal Stock Hood!!!

Stage 3
-Bpipe
-Girdled Head
-Carbon Tech Low Tension Reeds (Until you're ready to spend the big bucks on some really good reeds)

Stage 4
-Enhancer/Modified Stock CDI
-Lightened Flywheel

Stage 5
-Porting
-Bigger Carbs
-Better Reeds

Stage 6
-Aftermarket Hood
-Aftermarket Handlepole
-Scupper
-Tubbies



May I suggest adding reinforcements at stage 2, since you are working with glass anyway (footholds).

FLY6584
05-03-2007, 01:31 PM
May I suggest adding reinforcements at stage 2, since you are working with glass anyway (footholds).

Very good point. I still need to do that.:banghead:

wydopen
05-03-2007, 01:34 PM
May I suggest adding reinforcements at stage 2, since you are working with glass anyway (footholds).

.....tubbies should be the first thing on the list not last

michael950
05-03-2007, 01:45 PM
.....tubbies should be the first thing on the list not last

When you compare the number of riders that have tubbies or reinforce, reinforcement is more common. Thus I felt it was more important to emphasize reinforcemnt....


Besides, tubbies are one of those things that are rider preference. Kind of like a wet wolf cone, or blueprinted pump. Not as essential.

FLY6584
05-03-2007, 01:47 PM
.....tubbies should be the first thing on the list not last

I would have put them higher on the list, but in my opinion I would much rather have a bpipe, etc before Tubbies.

In my opinion parts like Tubbies, hoods, and aftermarket handlepoles aren't that necessary to be able to have fun on a superjet while a pipe, prop, etc are a MUST.

Now if you have the $$$$ and you've ridden a ski with Tubbies and like them then I would put them up there with the footholds stage.:biggthumpup:

Endo
05-03-2007, 02:23 PM
Very Good suggestions!! My thoughts were leaning the same way with the handling. Fly...why do you like those intake grates? Pro's/Con's? And I may move the B pipe up a little on the list. Question there too. The b pipe seems to be the one everyone runs? But Factory's site doesn't call them b pipes? Are they still the same? Good place to get them? And the Glassing:bigeyes:
I don't mind turning a wrench but that makes me nervous but allot of people on here seem to be comfortable with it. Is it that easy???

Keep the ideas rolling!!!

and drodabaugh...occasionally ride Tippy/little Tippy. Beers cold and the wakeboarders leave a great wake. And the view at times:woot:

michael950
05-03-2007, 02:33 PM
Endo, your going to need to search for the answers to your querstions.

Many answers can be found in the Tech FAQ (http://www.x-h2o.com/forumdisplay.php?f=26).

There is info about different exhaust systems, glassing, reinforcements, etc.

Great info!

michael950
05-03-2007, 02:34 PM
Oh, the B-pipe is stamped on the header pipe "B-Pipe".

On the FPP website, it is called the Yamaha 701 SuperJet Mod or Limited pipe. (http://www.factorypipe.com/p_yamaha.php)

yamaslut
05-03-2007, 02:42 PM
Very Good suggestions!! My thoughts were leaning the same way with the handling. Fly...why do you like those intake grates? Pro's/Con's? And I may move the B pipe up a little on the list. Question there too. The b pipe seems to be the one everyone runs? But Factory's site doesn't call them b pipes? Are they still the same? Good place to get them? And the Glassing:bigeyes:
I don't mind turning a wrench but that makes me nervous but allot of people on here seem to be comfortable with it. Is it that easy???

Keep the ideas rolling!!!

and drodabaugh...occasionally ride Tippy/little Tippy. Beers cold and the wakeboarders leave a great wake. And the view at times:woot:

if you move the "B-Pipe" up on the list, definately get the prop and intake before or at the same time.

FLY6584
05-03-2007, 02:58 PM
Very Good suggestions!! My thoughts were leaning the same way with the handling. Fly...why do you like those intake grates? Pro's/Con's? And I may move the B pipe up a little on the list. Question there too. The b pipe seems to be the one everyone runs? But Factory's site doesn't call them b pipes? Are they still the same? Good place to get them? And the Glassing:bigeyes:
I don't mind turning a wrench but that makes me nervous but allot of people on here seem to be comfortable with it. Is it that easy???

Keep the ideas rolling!!!

and drodabaugh...occasionally ride Tippy/little Tippy. Beers cold and the wakeboarders leave a great wake. And the view at times:woot:

Yep just like Yamaslut said, prop and intake grate FIRST. Oh and 0Deg bars also cuz the stock ones absolutely suck.

Then I would start working on the Stage 2 items cuz they are mostly free aside from the Footholds and while you're working on Stage 2 keep an eye out for a used Bpipe and girdled head so you can save some money buying used. If you get to the point where you have to have a bpipe you can always buy one new.:biggthumpup:

jetskee
05-03-2007, 04:04 PM
.....tubbies should be the first thing on the list not last

What benefit do tubbies provide (for freestyle)?

wydopen
05-03-2007, 04:08 PM
What benefit do tubbies provide (for freestyle)?

you can actually lay your ski on a rail...i must lean alot harder than most people cause when i watch people ride my ski that dont have tubbies they rde around on the bottom of the ski...my style is more gas, more leaned over i guess...for someone that is just gettinginto it they will probally be turning more than they are doing "tricks"....thats why tubbies would be before reinforcemnt/footholds if i was building a ski..

nickt916
05-03-2007, 06:56 PM
how hard is it to install tubbies and where can i read up on them? are they called "tubbies"? i also want to cut my stock pole, the stock one feels to long, but im not sure where to start, obviously cutting it right up in the middle is a bad idea haha, how do you reinforce it to being as strong as it it now so it wont snap later? ... i figured since i would want to install the pole spring might as well cut the pole while its off

JimTMich
05-03-2007, 10:43 PM
how hard is it to install tubbies and where can i read up on them? are they called "tubbies"?

Go lock your credit card somewhere where you can't get at it.........


locked? goood....


Now open a web browser to www.blowsion.com

let the drueling begin

Endo
06-04-2007, 10:25 AM
Just a quick update. Installed a worx 201 and:bigeyes:. Love the improved hookup. No more slowing down in heavy chop and big improvement in cornering! The deceleration is going to take some getting used to. No more chopping the throttle and coasting. Its great for setting up for a turn though. I'm thinking impeller next along with shortening the pole.

SMP
06-06-2007, 05:37 PM
I like your list FLY6584. I'd prbly go with something similar but with a few additional notes.

- I always get bilge(s) and bars first if you can't afford to do everything in Stage 1 at once.
- I would also add a pro-tec nozzle at Stage 1.

- Cutting/adding handholds at Stage 2, or maybe it's just implied to be part of "Seal Stock Hood!!!".

- Add a pump stuffer at some point, maybe Stage 3, just because that stage looks a little thinner than the others.

- I would also add a trim system to the list down around Tubbys (before IMO).

Endo
07-16-2007, 01:32 PM
Well finally cut my pole 3.5" a few weeks ago. What a difference!! Subs are easier and being able to stand further up in the tray allows for a whole new range of motion/balance. I was a little hesitant at first as it didn't make much of a difference on a 750 I had (ac -2) but on the SJ definite difference. I must admit I was very nervous taking that first saw cut into the pole but all turned out good. One suggestion that I can make is to be sure and clean the bracket out well. I noticed after remeasuring that the cut pole was not fitting all the way into the bracket. After a closer inspection I found a small bit of adhesive near one of the limiting ribs. A little more scraping and all was good.

By the way I used bolts instead of rivets. And JB weld as my adhesive.

Next is a prop from Impros......

ToddW
07-19-2007, 08:58 PM
you can actually lay your ski on a rail...i must lean alot harder than most people cause when i watch people ride my ski that dont have tubbies they rde around on the bottom of the ski...my style is more gas, more leaned over i guess...for someone that is just gettinginto it they will probally be turning more than they are doing "tricks"....thats why tubbies would be before reinforcemnt/footholds if i was building a ski..

I really lean my ski w/out tubbies to the point of it ALMOST breaking loose.. Sounds like tubbies wouldreally benefit me! :)

spence
07-24-2007, 03:21 PM
what props should you have for what levels of mods?

Endo
01-01-2008, 08:31 PM
Well since I am stuck in the big freeze I decided to get my footholds installed. I ended up going with a set of REVs. The install wasn't to bad but making that first cut was a little intimidating. I purchased my glassing supplies from US composites which consisted of:

635 epoxy (medium)
1708 biax
cabosil
glass bubbles
rollers
4 lb foam

I also had some s glass from previous jobs.

I don't have alot to add to all of the well written threads on here but I can say it isn't that hard if you just take your time. I just started with a cardboard template and kept cutting and fitting till I had a good fit. Since the revs have no flange on the back of the hold I did find it helpfull to remove as little foam as possible so that that you don't recess the holds to far in. I then used cabosil after the foaming to smooth out the transition between the tray and footholds before glassing in. Seemed to really lock the holds in solid.



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