View Full Version : Help and advice needed for my 701 freeride/freestyle build
Fearlessnuts
04-21-2007, 02:31 PM
Alright party people I'm sorry for my yamanoobness I have more questions.
I havent rebuilt the engine yet and while i have the cylinders out im curious weather i should get it ported or not.
First heres what i have
-Square nose-
-61x crank case
-Pretty much new beautiful 2005 crank
-.5mm WSM platinum series oversized pistons
-701 cylinders bored to the piston
-Stock head
-coffmans open pipe its the bigger one that comes over and mounts to the head
44mm black jack Carb
-Carbon tech bottom end reeds
-Stock flywheel
-stock electrical
-stock waterbox
-R&D top loader intake grate
pretty sure thats everything that matters but i want this ski to be jumping out of the water.
Im 5' 3"
and im 125lbs
SO the questions
-do they do bottom end porting?
if so whos the best in SO CAL preferably near orange country and corona
-What prop should i run for this ?
-would a pump cone be worth it (do they actually work?)
and
-anything else you would reconmend for my 701 set up
Id really apreciate the help im truelly a yamanoob right now so my ears are all open for ideas and suggestions
Thank you very much
-Mark
first question..whats your budget?
Fearlessnuts
04-21-2007, 02:47 PM
for porting? ill put down 200 i didnt pay any more than that for my reed 550 port job and it was top notch...for top end
total budget depends what you are suggesting me to do im not going to be going msd any time soon this is my sponsor ski from the shop i work at with my buddy who owns it. so were not going to go alllll out yet i still have to get used to riding the 701 first. and go from there i dont want to end up having my skill be what the engine can do thats why im doing as much as i can on my 550 first to get the technique down. so im talking engine mods not neccessarilly new flywheels or elecrical kind of stuff for now. so let me know though so i can make a list of future stuff to go for.
thanks
-Mark
Fearlessnuts
04-21-2007, 07:37 PM
help?
porting is gonna cost you more than $200 to have somebody reputable do it for you...figure about $350. send your flywheel off to have it lightened...$65. a low end prop like a solas concord 13/17 repitched like a 13/15 will really help get it out of the water. wetwolf cone....i did not notice any gains from it. i will sell you mine if you want to try. you could have your exit nozzle bored to 85mm......$20. oh....and a girdled head like an ada......$300. that should keep you busy for awhile.
shorten pole, Dcut rideplate, steering mod, hood mod
all are free except the hood mod, which will cost you about 50 bucks..
the hood mod is the #1 most important mod on a square....those top air intakes just guzzle water--do a search for the yamaslut hood mod ;)
Fearlessnuts
04-22-2007, 03:29 AM
porting is gonna cost you more than $200 to have somebody reputable do it for you...figure about $350. send your flywheel off to have it lightened...$65. a low end prop like a solas concord 13/17 repitched like a 13/15 will really help get it out of the water. wetwolf cone....i did not notice any gains from it. i will sell you mine if you want to try. you could have your exit nozzle bored to 85mm......$20. oh....and a girdled head like an ada......$300. that should keep you busy for awhile.
:bigeyes: oh yeah thats perfect thank you
questions on that
A: how much for the cone
B: who bores the nozzle
c: who lightens flywheels
you rock thanks
-Mark
Fearlessnuts
04-22-2007, 03:30 AM
shorten pole, Dcut rideplate, steering mod, hood mod
all are free except the hood mod, which will cost you about 50 bucks..
the hood mod is the #1 most important mod on a square....those top air intakes just guzzle water--do a search for the yamaslut hood mod ;)
awsome i was thinking about the blowsion carbon hood baffle but not worth the money and im iffy on their quality
thanks
-Mark
:bigeyes: oh yeah thats perfect thank you
questions on that
A: how much for the cone
B: who bores the nozzle
c: who lightens flywheels
you rock thanks
-Mark
i would sell the cone for 40....i paid 50 for it and used it half of a season. for the boring and flywheel work you could go with paul lehr. he is across the country though. he just did my nozzle and put a fitting back in for my stock bilge. i have an attwood but like the stock bilge also as it is a backup and takes the last bit of water out being in the very back on engine compartment.....i had protec do my flywheel work a year ago and they are in california but they really do not seem to put anything back into our sport. there is also groupk in arizona that will do your flywheel for you
wydopen
04-22-2007, 11:20 AM
shorten pole, Dcut rideplate, steering mod, hood mod
all are free except the hood mod, which will cost you about 50 bucks..
the hood mod is the #1 most important mod on a square....those top air intakes just guzzle water--do a search for the yamaslut hood mod ;)
...dont worry about anything else...just get a good prop, reinforce, shorten your pole and thats all you need to bf and br.....
jeepmark4x4
04-22-2007, 11:44 AM
Fearless you weigh 125 lbs.....a stock 61x cylinder will be plenty, might want to re-think your pistons though I've just heard WSM is not good stuff. Back to the power issue, I weigh about 195 and I get upside down no problem. In fact, Mr. Ratti yesterday was throwing down HUGE flatwater rolls on my stock square!
Mark, you ride in the surf and don't weigh much, DON'T PORT YOUR MOTOR! You want stck reliability! Get some oem pistons. You don't need to change the head, but you can mill the stocker to bump up compression. Have the flywheel lightened by Pro Tec (they are local). Thats it for the motor. Put on a prop and pump cone. You either bore the nozzle or put on a pump cone, but not both. They do the same thing, but doing both will hinder performance.
Wydopen is right. you are better off reinforcing the ski than wasting money on a port job. I would take that porting money and buy a set of tubbies.
oxnard111
04-22-2007, 12:33 PM
I would take that porting money and buy a set of tubbies.
After riding Wydopen's square with tubs, I would say get the tub over a port job any day.
yamaboy2000
04-22-2007, 01:50 PM
based on what you currently have, I would say you should really look into an MSD enhancer or even better an Advent ignition,,,ADA girdle head with compression @ 180psi,,and a Skat-trak 12/17 swirl prop. With what you have and the Mods I have mentioned you will net the best possible reliable HP gains for the money spent, there are a sheeat load of mods and machine work that can be done and people will recomend however the true gain over what I have mentioned will be nominal for the $$ spent..I have built, modded,fabricated,designed and have had built more Yamaha powerplants than I care to remember..Ride & Have Fun :arms:
norcal ex
04-22-2007, 02:07 PM
based on what you currently have, I would say you should really look into an MSD enhancer or even better an Advent ignition,,,ADA girdle head with compression @ 180psi,,and a Skat-trak 12/17 swirl prop. With what you have and the Mods I have mentioned you will net the best possible reliable HP gains for the money spent, there are a sheeat load of mods and machine work that can be done and people will recomend however the true gain over what I have mentioned will be nominal for the $$ spent..I have built, modded,fabricated,designed and have had built more Yamaha powerplants than I care to remember..Ride & Have Fun :arms:
Listen to yamaboy!! I did and look where i am now! Hes the "Doctor"!:biggthumpup:
Oh, ditch those carbon reeds for some stockers. Carbon reeds don't last as long, and as much as we sink skis in the surf....., the stockers hold up better when you hydrolock that thing.
yamaboy2000
04-22-2007, 02:16 PM
Mr. Nor-cal Ex (aka J-RAD) not only is where he at due to a nice reliable powerplant, it actually has more to due with pure talent and ambition the J-RAD is someone to watch in our sport of freestyle:Banane01:
douglee25
04-22-2007, 04:16 PM
I'm not able to quote word for word, but I spoke to Chuckie at Supertune and he explained to me that he recommends doing about every bolt on to an engine or ski BEFORE you subjet your engine to porting. He also said that although you could do your own porting, he suggests that someone who knows what their doing to take care of that job.
As I said, I had the conversation a few months ago with Chuck so I would recommend you just call him. He has a wealth of information.
Doug
FL-cracker
04-22-2007, 05:35 PM
62t cases will give you about another 10% hp increase... that and a nice port job would be the next step. imo
For your weight, I wouldnt even worry so much about reinforcement yet...... I weigh 175lbs and learned to role in surf without reinfocement, and never had a issue..... pull some weight from inside the boat, and it will be even lesser of a concern...... for your size, you would deffinetly appreciate, a little lighter boat.
SUPERTUNE
04-22-2007, 06:17 PM
You would be on the right track as most have suggested... Freestyle prop and make sure you use a 701 alum exit nozzle, have it taperbored to about 84.5mm, You need some compression too, Get an ADA head w/35cc limited domes. If you want to use a stock head, find a later new style 701 stock ('97-up) head and mill it (.070 off and remachine squish) it has a better casting and is bridged around the water passages (must use later OEM Yamaha gasket too with this head, they're not as prone to blowing headgaskets) You can't run a ADVENT CDI on early 61x ignition parts unless you change out the flywheel and stator from a 96-up superjet 62T system. Use a modded cdi for a better rev ceiling. No porting would be my recommendation for now. Some good tuning and maybe using jetworks valve on the pipe.
FL-cracker
04-22-2007, 06:37 PM
Disregard my 1st post..... i was thinking flatwater.
For surf all anyone needs is a 61x B-pipe, impeller..... you weigh 125lb... dont even worry about high compression and porting, you proabably wont be able to control the power of a ported 62T motor in the surf.
Keep it simple and reliable is the key to a good surf boat!
Fearlessnuts
04-22-2007, 08:41 PM
Holy crap i was going to reply to all of your guy's posts individually but i came back and there was 7 more lol
ill be back in a bit to get an over view of what im doing
for right now before i go im sold on not porting
thank you very much everyone
bbl
-Mark
justride
04-22-2007, 08:52 PM
get your self a used cheap solas I prop, it hit's just as hard as a concord 13-15 prop, and it wont cost as much money....
Fearlessnuts
04-22-2007, 09:44 PM
ok first feedback question listed above Bored nozzle or aftermarket pump cone
which one would give better results
reading the rest ill have more questions thanks
-Mark
Fearlessnuts
04-22-2007, 10:03 PM
62t cases will give you about another 10% hp increase... that and a nice port job would be the next step. imo
For your weight, I wouldnt even worry so much about reinforcement yet...... I weigh 175lbs and learned to role in surf without reinfocement, and never had a issue..... pull some weight from inside the boat, and it will be even lesser of a concern...... for your size, you would deffinetly appreciate, a little lighter boat.
what do i remove out of the square for weight?
jeepmark4x4
04-22-2007, 11:14 PM
my waterbox is gone :sneaky: :biggthumpup: , When you put footholds in the best way to prevent weight being added is to make sure the ski is water tight! Also things that help with weight: Aftermarket pipe, keeping it single carb, modded hood (take out that heavy liner), no fire ext. box, smaller battery, etc. There are a bunch of little tricks to keep the weight down.
SUPERTUNE
04-23-2007, 05:37 AM
Get a (96-up alum) pump exit nozzle bored, don't worry about a pump cone right now...
FL-cracker
04-23-2007, 07:08 AM
what do i remove out of the square for weight?
x-metal waterbox easy way to loose 10lbs up front (when Wet)
I run a 5lb cheapo Advanced Discout Auto parts battery wich losses anther 10lbs.
Make sure your boat is good to go, but I can crank on that little battery for a pretty damn long time with a limited setup and 150-160lbs compression:biggthumpup:
The battery is like 25 bucks
Waterbox is about 250..... for ocean riding you have no need for the front exhaust... you can always add it later
People are gona flame me for telling you to lighten it up..... but one your coming off a small arse 550.... and for two your only 125lbs.,, less weight you have to throw around the better :Banane01:
Get out there and ride what you got for now!
yamanube
04-23-2007, 09:58 AM
Alright party people I'm sorry for my yamanoobness I have more questions.....
What?
Fearlessnuts
04-23-2007, 10:12 AM
Get a (96-up alum) pump exit nozzle bored, don't worry about a pump cone right now...
Thank you and get it taper bored to 84.5mm right?
does protec do taperboring?
thanks
-Mark
Fearlessnuts
04-23-2007, 10:15 AM
x-metal waterbox easy way to loose 10lbs up front (when Wet)
I run a 5lb cheapo Advanced Discout Auto parts battery wich losses anther 10lbs.
Make sure your boat is good to go, but I can crank on that little battery for a pretty damn long time with a limited setup and 150-160lbs compression:biggthumpup:
The battery is like 25 bucks
Waterbox is about 250..... for ocean riding you have no need for the front exhaust... you can always add it later
People are gona flame me for telling you to lighten it up..... but one your coming off a small arse 550.... and for two your only 125lbs.,, less weight you have to trow around the better :Banane01:
yeah i get you ill still use my Odyssey dry cell battery
Fearlessnuts
04-23-2007, 10:16 AM
What?
hahaha no offense
Fearlessnuts
04-23-2007, 10:19 AM
So i will eventually find a 96 and up handle pole to slap on my ski.
however with footholds in even on mine if i dug into both to reach the handle pole with some type of balance i would have to have my arms fully extended i dont really see or feel the balance in that.
So why would cutting 2 inches off it be beneficial?
thanks
-Mark
Fearlessnuts
04-23-2007, 10:22 AM
last one for this morning is which is better
Solas Concord 13/15
or
Skat trak 12/17 swirl prop
if they fought to the death who would win?
jk which one would work better for my ski and myself?
thanks
-Mark
justride
04-23-2007, 12:25 PM
SOLAS I Prop.
I'm tellin' ya, there cheap and awesome!!!!!!
This is the best post you will read in this thread.
For surf all anyone needs is a 61x B-pipe, impeller..... you weigh 125lb... dont even worry about high compression and porting, you proabably wont be able to control the power of a ported 62T motor in the surf.
Keep it simple and reliable is the key to a good surf boat!
Fearlessnuts
04-23-2007, 04:43 PM
up above i could use some help
up above i could use some help
For the handle pole?
If thats what your questionis about; They say taller ridders can run a shoter pole. I think it's because of a longer reach?. Anyway you could start by running a Blowsion or x-metal shortened turn plate and see how you like it. If you think it could be a little shorter, shorten the pole.
I have been expairmenting with this for a little while. I just cut another pole and I'm thinking about one more inch off before I put it together. I figgure if it is to short, I can put on my standard length turn plate and be where I was.
I think it's a personal preference and comfort thing.
I personally prefer a slightly longer pole in surf (than my -3+ xmetal style straight bars as far forward as I could mount them). For flatwater I can't seem to go too short.
Fearlessnuts
04-27-2007, 02:38 PM
For the handle pole?
If thats what your questionis about; They say taller ridders can run a shoter pole. I think it's because of a longer reach?. Anyway you could start by running a Blowsion or x-metal shortened turn plate and see how you like it. If you think it could be a little shorter, shorten the pole.
I have been expairmenting with this for a little while. I just cut another pole and I'm thinking about one more inch off before I put it together. I figgure if it is to short, I can put on my standard length turn plate and be where I was.
I think it's a personal preference and comfort thing.
ohh ok i gotcha yeah no cutting needed for mine im actually going to install my footholds a little farther up the tray than they are usually ment to be becuase of my size and i know by doing that i loose that leverage of having them farther back=/ but hey its gotta work somehow.
oxnard111
04-27-2007, 02:46 PM
So i will eventually find a 96 and up handle pole to slap on my ski.
however with footholds in even on mine if i dug into both to reach the handle pole with some type of balance i would have to have my arms fully extended i dont really see or feel the balance in that.
So why would cutting 2 inches off it be beneficial?
thanks
-Mark
it is probably in this thread somewhere, but how tall are you? Handle pole length is all personal preference, but I am only 5'7" and i love my -3.75" pole with a standard length turnplate. It was a little akward at first, but I'm getting used it it. I am kinda over rotating on nose stabs and am going in the water almost upside down. I need to learn how to control that for stabs, but it is gonna come in handy when I grow the balls this season to try rolls.
Fearlessnuts
04-27-2007, 03:11 PM
it is probably in this thread somewhere, but how tall are you? Handle pole length is all personal preference, but I am only 5'7" and i love my -3.75" pole with a standard length turnplate. It was a little akward at first, but I'm getting used it it. I am kinda over rotating on nose stabs and am going in the water almost upside down. I need to learn how to control that for stabs, but it is gonna come in handy when I grow the balls this season to try rolls.
haha that last part was funny im with you i feel it now but when i hit the water its a whoooole lot easier said than done. im 5'3" so idk ill get a stock length 96 and up pole and try rolling but that was a good point so ill have to see.
yankeeboy
04-27-2007, 03:21 PM
i got a square, and i wouldnt spend the money to get a roundnose pole, it requires more work than anything, and you could definately find a better place to put the money. i put my footholds back a bit farther, so i figure i wouldnt need a shorter pole for a while.
think of a RN pole and other stuff like that for next season, when you have all winter to work on it. Just focus on getting to the water and being happy with a set up for a season.
DaUpJetSkier
04-28-2007, 10:07 AM
i got a square, and i wouldnt spend the money to get a roundnose pole, it requires more work than anything, and you could definately find a better place to put the money. i put my footholds back a bit farther, so i figure i wouldnt need a shorter pole for a while.
think of a RN pole and other stuff like that for next season, when you have all winter to work on it. Just focus on getting to the water and being happy with a set up for a season.
i totally disagree, putting on a rn pole made a huge diff imo.
RN poles are WAY lighter, you have the option of shortening them, and are better looking IMO.
yankeeboy
05-01-2007, 03:09 PM
yea i mean if i could put on a Rn pole i definately would. But you can put the $100 into something engine or performance wise ( prop, head, piece of pipe, etc. ). If you can get a pole, and know how to do the conversion, do it, but thats just more down time on the season even though the california season is a bit longer than everwhere else....
Fearlessnuts
05-07-2007, 12:51 AM
yea i mean if i could put on a Rn pole i definately would. But you can put the $100 into something engine or performance wise ( prop, head, piece of pipe, etc. ). If you can get a pole, and know how to do the conversion, do it, but thats just more down time on the season even though the california season is a bit longer than everwhere else....
Year Round :arms: :arms: :arms:
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