View Full Version : Jet Hot Coatings Never do Business with
112motorsports
04-13-2007, 11:49 AM
I sent my pipe to be coated over 2 weeks ago and they just now called informing me that I have to sign a release form waving all of their responsibility for damnge. I don't understand why it took them two weeks first off to contact me regarding this situation. Then they proced to tell me that it will cost $56 to second day air the parts back when ground is only 2 days away. I am at a lost for words. If it is not a set of headers from a car they seem to not be cofident in their abiltiy to do the work corectly. Take it from me and don't send your parts and or give them any of your business.
RiverRat
04-13-2007, 12:57 PM
They make you sign that waiver on any aluminum part that is coated. It can potentially warp durring the heating process.
Big Kahuna
04-13-2007, 01:17 PM
just request you want std ground shipping.
just joe
05-02-2007, 10:22 PM
Had a horrible experience as well. Had my FP coated 3 times trying to get the copper coating to stick. Each time it arrived at my door already peeling off. Each time they also smashed my stinger. Eventually had to have them use standard ceramic coating, which is cheaper than the copper, but to this day I haven't received the difference refunded.
Never signed any waiver, never asked me to.
Though I have had good experience with them in the past, I'm done.
#ZERO
05-02-2007, 10:40 PM
I've had two chambers and a waterbox done at A-1 Ceramic Coatings in Seminole Florida. The first time it took them three days and the second time they had the job done the next day. The coating has lasted me for over a year now and still looks like brand new.
A-1 Ceramic Coatings
8596 Seminole Boulevard, Seminole, FL 33772
(727) 399-9666
FLY6584
05-02-2007, 10:51 PM
I've had two chambers and a waterbox done at A-1 Ceramic Coatings in Seminole Florida. The first time it took them three days and the second time they had the job done the next day. The coating has lasted me for over a year now and still looks like brand new.
A-1 Ceramic Coatings
8596 Seminole Boulevard, Seminole, FL 33772
(727) 399-9666
Next time I have my chamber out of my boat which I hope is not for a while I'm taking it there.
I've had two chambers and a waterbox done at A-1 Ceramic Coatings in Seminole Florida. The first time it took them three days and the second time they had the job done the next day. The coating has lasted me for over a year now and still looks like brand new.
A-1 Ceramic Coatings
8596 Seminole Boulevard, Seminole, FL 33772
(727) 399-9666
I've had many things done there too as has Pat Bogart.
RiverRat
05-03-2007, 02:04 AM
Jet Hot did not return my adjustment screws as I clearly instructed on my b-pipe head pipe. I had to buy new ones and they acted oblivious to the matter. :bs2: They also scribed numbers on my parts :banghead: WTF!! Jet-Hot is some awesome stuff but I personally will consider doing business w/ other, more cautious coaters.
Jet Hot did not return my adjustment screws as I clearly instructed on my b-pipe head pipe. I had to buy new ones and they acted oblivious to the matter. :bs2: They also scribed numbers on my parts :banghead: WTF!! Jet-Hot is some awesome stuff but I personally will consider doing business w/ other, more cautious coaters.
I assume you mean the water adjustment screws on a B headpipe? In the future (or to anyone else), when you send these parts to coaters, assume that they just know how to tkae the part, blast it, and coat it (not disassemble it). Even with A-1, they told me to remove any extra parts. On the headpipe adjusters, plug them with a small-headed bolt.
RiverRat
05-03-2007, 09:18 AM
I assume you mean the water adjustment screws on a B headpipe? In the future (or to anyone else), when you send these parts to coaters, assume that they just know how to tkae the part, blast it, and coat it (not disassemble it). Even with A-1, they told me to remove any extra parts. On the headpipe adjusters, plug them with a small-headed bolt.
These areas need to be plugged durring the beed blasting process, otherwise you will get material in the waterjacket that you might not be able to get out. If that material does come loose it can plug a line and cause some real problems.
112motorsports
05-03-2007, 10:45 AM
Well I finally got my pipe back and it looks like I rattled can the thing. The chamber came out nice but the head pipe and the manifold look terrible. They do not listin over there what so ever. They coated all of the mating serfaces which in turn caused a major air leak that I chased for a couple of day. Sanded the coating off of the manifold and bam the air leak was gone. Overall terrible experience.
Well I finally got my pipe back and it looks like I rattled can the thing. The chamber came out nice but the head pipe and the manifold look terrible. They do not listin over there what so ever. They coated all of the mating serfaces which in turn caused a major air leak that I chased for a couple of day. Sanded the coating off of the manifold and bam the air leak was gone. Overall terrible experience.
The other coaters also coat everything. Like I mentioned above, assume that they will just take and blast and coat everything that is exposed. I had the same experience with my haedpipe and manifold mating surfaces. They were too smooth and I could not tighten enough to seal. I had to sand the surfaces to roughen them up and that also cured the leak.
the only couch rider
05-03-2007, 11:13 AM
these coatings are baked at 400 degrees or so. anything they would use to cover the mating surface during coating would burn up in the process. that is why they tell you to remove anything that you do no want covered and all rubber parts as they will melt during the baking process. and you should check parts before you put them on when getting it back from vendors like that. you probably could have saved yourself a day of chasing that air leak by doing that
and NJFL was right by saying take out the adjustment screws and plug them with a small bolt. it keeps the coating out of the waterjack and plus you don't have to get new adjustment screws
The Penguin
05-03-2007, 11:17 AM
why can't the mating surfaces be taped during the coating process, then remove the tape for the baking?
112motorsports
05-03-2007, 11:25 AM
I specifical asked them not to coat any of the matting surfaces and they just don't listin. Plain and simple and then they charged me $200 over the initial quote.
63chevyll
05-03-2007, 11:29 AM
tape + 400 deg = tape bugers
unlike power coating it is real hot.
im sure there is a high temp tape but prob cost too much
FLY6584
05-03-2007, 11:36 AM
I specifical asked them not to coat any of the matting surfaces and they just don't listin. Plain and simple and then they charged me $200 over the initial quote.
:bigeyes:
why can't the mating surfaces be taped during the coating process, then remove the tape for the baking?
They can, but that takes extra time and breaks away from their standard process, which would definitely mean more money to charge you.
Additionally, after the coating is done, removal of the tape (unless meticulously done) would leave residue (boogers, as 63chevyII said) that would turn to some compound and react during the baking.
when i have things powdercoated there is some kind of high heat blue tape they use
SuperJETT
05-03-2007, 02:24 PM
when i have things powdercoated there is some kind of high heat blue tape they use
I had the same thing on my goped, several things were taped and they stuck tape inside the threads too.
#ZERO
05-03-2007, 03:26 PM
Powder coating tape is only rated too 400 degrees and ceramic coatings get baked between 600~700 for an hour on the final stage.
What's wrong with ceramic coating the pipe inside and outside?
What's wrong with ceramic coating the pipe inside and outside?
Nothing. I think people were discussing tape with respect to masking off mating surfaces and the like.
#ZERO
05-03-2007, 03:37 PM
Just coat the whole thing; engines make more horsepower with the exhaust systems insulated.
They should be using high temp silicone plugs in the thread holes and not tape.
Matt_E
05-03-2007, 03:49 PM
Out of curiosity, how much does it cost to have them do a B-Pipe chamber?
feartheride
05-03-2007, 03:54 PM
Cost me 150.00 for the whole pipe last year ,just sent another last week so I better call to check on it
feartheride
05-03-2007, 03:55 PM
I sent my pipe to be coated over 2 weeks ago and they just now called informing me that I have to sign a release form waving all of their responsibility for damnge. I don't understand why it took them two weeks first off to contact me regarding this situation. Then they proced to tell me that it will cost $56 to second day air the parts back when ground is only 2 days away. I am at a lost for words. If it is not a set of headers from a car they seem to not be cofident in their abiltiy to do the work corectly. Take it from me and don't send your parts and or give them any of your business.
Which factory did you send your pipe to they have 2.
#ZERO
05-03-2007, 04:32 PM
Out of curiosity, how much does it cost to have them do a B-Pipe chamber?
Just the chamber alone cost me 80 bucks cash at A-1 of course I gave it to him after acid dipping it to bare metal.
Matt_E
05-03-2007, 05:19 PM
What are the advantages to doing this?
the only couch rider
05-03-2007, 05:20 PM
What are the advantages to doing this?
lower engine compartment and engine operating temperatures and there is that kick ass looks factor
What are the advantages to doing this?
Just looks and saltwater protection. The whole temperature insulating thing is irrelevant at the power levels that skis make. The only place where that is has really noticeable performance benefits (that can be felt) is in 3000+hp nitro or alcohol cars.
Matt_E
05-03-2007, 05:25 PM
Looks are nice, but I don't personally care to spend money on looks.
I don't quite care to mess with engine temps either - mine seems fine.
I think #0 mentioned something about the exhaust working better with it insulated?
EDIT: Thanks Joe, just saw your post above this.
I guess corrosion protection is nice. Thanks for the info. :biggthumpup:
michael950
05-03-2007, 05:27 PM
Matt:
Read RiverRat's post on this subject from Project RiverRat (http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?p=193056#post193056)
Ok, back to the hows and whys of the build.
Why I had those particular parts coated
For those who may not know, Jet-hot looks great no doubt but has allot of function to go along with those good looks. It contains ceramic material that in essence, insulates the metal in the exhaust system from the heat of the exhaust gases. This not only keeps the surface of the exhaust up to 60% cooler but by doing so can promote denser air/fuel charges by lowering the temp of the engine compartment. Cooler air = denser air. Not as big of a deal on a wet pipe but it non the less promotes a cooler parts. Anouther added benifit of the coating is that it is very smooth and promotes more efficient flow of gases through the system (specifically on cast aluminum peices like the manifold and headpipe).
The main reason I opted to get the parts coated was to protect the metal from the exhaust gases, acids that can build up in the exhaust, salt, corossion and mineral deposites that commonly form on hot exhaust parts exposed to water. That has always been a eyesore to me. Plus when the parts are disassembled they can be cleaned relativly easily b/c oils and other types of build up typically have a more difficult time sticking to the smooth surface of the coating.
The flywheel cover I had coated b/c it was a bare aluminum and I preferred to have that coated instead of polishing b/c of cost. I don't have the wheels and buffers readily availabe, plus I think it was about $25 to have that coated with expansion chamber. The coating on the chamber was only $70-$75 and that includes all the cleaning and blasting. I went over the pipe w/ a SOS pad before I sent it to their facility, but it was run for a season. Looks allot better than new now :biggthumpup:
I think #0 mentioned something about the exhaust working better with it insulated?
I really don't think that it would be working better due to increased temperature contained within the chamber or headpipe. Perhaps, an auxillary effect of the coating is that it fills in all of the casting pits in the headpipe, manifold runners, and imperfections in the chamber, making the surfaces smoother and thus not having carbon and sludge build up as easily.
FLY6584
05-03-2007, 05:40 PM
Looks are nice, but I don't personally care to spend money on looks.
How come you painted your ski then?:dunno:
I love it when people say looks don't matter and they could careless. Don't get me wrong looks aren't everything and they won't make you a better rider, but who actually likes an ugly ski.:dunno:
Personally I like my stuff to look nice if I can without spending a ridiculous amount of money to make it look nice. If I can spend a little here and a little there for a little bling factor then I probably will. Now I could never see myself getting one of those $2000 paint jobs:bigeyes: (not refering to yours matt).
I also think $80 to ceramic a bpipe is worth it. I'm sorry, but used bpipes with the oxidized look do look like crap. If you ceramic coat it they will look good forever like you see in #0's ski.:biggthumpup:
Matt_E
05-03-2007, 05:47 PM
How come you painted your ski then?:dunno:
I love it when people say looks don't matter and they could careless. Don't get me wrong looks aren't everything and they won't make you a better rider, but who actually likes an ugly ski.:dunno:
Personally I like my stuff to look nice if I can without spending a ridiculous amount of money to make it look nice. If I can spend a little here and a little there for a little bling factor then I probably will. Now I could never see myself getting one of those $2000 paint jobs:bigeyes: (not refering to yours matt).
I also think $80 to ceramic a bpipe is worth it. I'm sorry, but used bpipes with the oxidized look do look like crap. If you ceramic coat it they will look good forever like you see in #0's ski.:biggthumpup:
My paint was free. :biggthumpup:
I didn't say I don't care about looks - I said I don't care to spend much money on looks. :biggthumpup:
So - you weren't referring to me with your rant.
FLY6584
05-03-2007, 05:48 PM
My paint was free. :biggthumpup: I didn't say I don't care about looks - I said I don't care to spend much money on looks. :biggthumpup:
I gotcha. :biggthumpup:
Matt_E
05-03-2007, 05:51 PM
I do what I can for looks, where it counts (i.e., not the bottom of the hull, and usually not so much inside the bilge), but I don't spend much on it.
I don't mind working, because my time is free. Sort of.
That said, I very much admire the work of folks who do. Nice looking stuff :purr:
#ZERO
05-03-2007, 06:28 PM
I found in my testing that these engines make a lot more power when the pipe is running real hot. I like to run my B-Pipe with the bottom screw at a quarter turn open and the rest all closed. I also run a 1mm restrictor jet in the stinger tip witch keeps it running extremely hot. When it had the factory chrome powder coating it used to make ticking noises and sizzle when water hit the pipe. After ceramic coating my chamber and waterbox it lowered the temperature to the point where the ticking noise is gone and the water stopped sizzling. Now the only problem I have is melting the long exhaust hoses on long WOT runs to the point where they get soft and start smoking. I just recently fabricated an aluminum long exhaust tube with silicone hose ends to take care of that problem.
I just recently fabricated an aluminum long exhaust tube with silicone hose ends to take care of that problem.
Nice. Post some pictures after you install it (in a separate thread). Be careful though as your carb(s) vibrate quite a bit (easily up to +/- 0.5") and they may end up hitting the aluminum tube.
#ZERO
05-03-2007, 07:01 PM
Nice. Post some pictures after you install it (in a separate thread). Be careful though as your carb(s) vibrate quite a bit (easily up to +/- 0.5") and they may end up hitting the aluminum tube.
Yeah... your right, its going to be close with 44's even without a reed spacer plate? The aluminum tubing is will be the same diameter and thickness as the rear exhaust tube which was hard to find.
It's going to be a little while before I can post some pictures because the engine in pieces right now.
just joe
05-03-2007, 07:45 PM
They also scribed numbers on my parts WTF!!
They scribed tag numbers on my gasket surfaces!!
I too had to sand off the coating on the gasket surfaces due to a leak.
112motorsports
05-03-2007, 10:09 PM
I sent mine to the Mississippi one and you better check the price. They charged me $405 for the job. I am still fighting to get back my money. CHECK CHECK and RE CHECK before you send it to them. I personally know I got riped the hell off.
RiverRat
05-04-2007, 12:53 AM
I sent mine to the Mississippi one and you better check the price. They charged me $405 for the job. I am still fighting to get back my money. CHECK CHECK and RE CHECK before you send it to them. I personally know I got riped the hell off.
What all was coated? Just the b-pipe? For a headpipe, manifold and chamber it should be no more that $180!!
112motorsports
05-04-2007, 10:27 AM
That is all that was coated. I had an original estimate of $125 for the whole thing and then I get the invoice and I called my sale man and he said you must have sent more parts. I attempted to explain to him what I sent since they never see any of the parts and he said he would look into it. They charged me $205 for just the manifold. On th invoice it says it was a 4 cylinder intake manifold. I am at wits end with these guys.
FLY6584
05-04-2007, 12:29 PM
That is all that was coated. I had an original estimate of $125 for the whole thing and then I get the invoice and I called my sale man and he said you must have sent more parts. I attempted to explain to him what I sent since they never see any of the parts and he said he would look into it. They charged me $205 for just the manifold. On th invoice it says it was a 4 cylinder intake manifold. I am at wits end with these guys.
Damn:bigeyes: I would be too.
RiverRat
05-04-2007, 03:16 PM
That is all that was coated. I had an original estimate of $125 for the whole thing and then I get the invoice and I called my sale man and he said you must have sent more parts. I attempted to explain to him what I sent since they never see any of the parts and he said he would look into it. They charged me $205 for just the manifold. On th invoice it says it was a 4 cylinder intake manifold. I am at wits end with these guys.
Yeah that is BS!! The manifold should only be about $30
just joe
05-04-2007, 08:37 PM
I sent mine to the Mississippi one and you better check the price. They charged me $405 for the job. I am still fighting to get back my money. CHECK CHECK and RE CHECK before you send it to them. I personally know I got riped the hell off.
Rip. Mine was $180 for headpipe, manifold, and chamber. Sent to Mississippi as well.
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